Cutting Thick Hardwood

[tdorey]

I am fairly new to the Shopsmith. I have a Mark V from 80's. With a new 520 table and fence. I used to have a rigid table saw that had no trouble ripping/cross cutting hardwood.

I ran a test piece through the SS, 2" Inch thick cherry wood cross cut and the SS blade started to smoke and wouldn't cut through.

I ordered a new blade as I think that has something to do with the problem. My question is, what are the limitation of the table saw when cutting thicker hardwood? Any tips or tricks I should be aware of?

Thanks for any feedback.

[stephen_a._draper]

You did not say which blade you used. I have used a sharp steel crosscut blade as well as a Alternate Top Bevel carbide tipped blade both with excellent result crosscutting. You must have a sharp blade to cut hardwoods.

[tdorey]

Its a Dewalt 60T fine cross cut blade. But a few years old and has never been sharpened.

[rjent]

One of the nifty things about the Shopsmith Mark V (but not needed with the PowerPro) is that you can "gear down" the blade and run it slower if you need more power. You are actually giving the motor more mechanical advantage with "gear ratio" change with the variable sheave pulley setup. Try it, I think you will be happy. The table saw is the weakest link in the system, but it is still very functional, just takes some getting used to.

JMHO

[tdorey]

So I moved the dial to "SAW", when you say slow it down, you mean move it to one of the other functions. That will give more actual "cut" power with less rotations?

Power pro looks like a great update, Being in Canada though, its a very expensive upgrade. Up around $3000.

SS needs a better distribution system worldwide.

[everettdavis]

Its a Dewalt 60T fine cross cut blade. But a few years old and has never been sharpened.

Thoroughly cleaning and waxing the blade can do wonders as well. Just a little bit of build up can really bog it down in hard woods.

Some day when you have some exploration time, take the oldest, most rusty blade you have that you haven't used in years, and cut some 3/4" in oak with it just as it is. Clean / de-rust and wax the same old blade without sharpening it and try it again. It is often quite revealing.

Re-waxing your tables (especially) planer tables, can be equally gratifying to your work, and even your power bill.

[rjent]

So I moved the dial to "SAW", when you say slow it down, you mean move it to one of the other functions. That will give more actual "cut" power with less rotations?

Power pro looks like a great update, Being in Canada though, its a very expensive upgrade. Up around $3000.

SS needs a better distribution system worldwide.

Yes, that is correct. Pick a slower rotational speed. You don't get as smooth a cut, but it certainly cuts better.

And yes, like everttdavis says, wax wax wax. Way tubes, blades, tables, etc.

[tdorey]

Ok, will give this a try. Thanks for the feedback.

[davebodner]

Couldn't table alignment be an issue here?

[tdorey]

Yes, It could be. Thats a good point. Under the table there are four bolts that are suppose to be adjustable to align table, But I can't see how, they are just strait bolts.

Any suggestions for aligning the table to the sanding disc? It is out about 1/16, but those bolts only loosen and tighten.

Thanks.