Shopsmith Forums

The new switch I put on my rebuilt 10ER just quit. The first one lasted 64 years the new one lasted a year

Will 515605 work (the switch for an early Mark V), or more appropriately, is there a good replacement switch (other than Chinese crap) that I can use. One that will fit through the cast iron headstock......

I searched the forum, but had difficulty finding anything useful ....

Thanks in advance!

Dick
Sorry to break the bad news but any switch you get will be either Chinese crap or Mexican crap.
You may want to try this one. I have used these on MK V's with good results.
http://www.we-supply.com/browse.cfm/4,2915.html
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:Dick
Sorry to break the bad news but any switch you get will be either Chinese crap or Mexican crap.
You may want to try this one. I have used these on MK V's with good results.
http://www.we-supply.com/browse.cfm/4,2915.html
Bill V

Do you know if the threaded barrel will fit through the cast iron headstock? The last one did, but it was tight.

That looks like a good switch, I don't particularly like the spade connectors, but it would work.

Thanks, I may order a couple to offset shipping, as I am (patiently) looking for another 10ER to restore ....

It should. The threaded barrel is supposed to be made to a standard. No reason you could not ream the hole slightly. You should be able to go back in the listing and find the same switch with screw terminals or solder lugs if that would be your choice.
Bill

rjent wrote:

wa2crk wrote:Dick
Sorry to break the bad news but any switch you get will be either Chinese crap or Mexican crap.
You may want to try this one. I have used these on MK V's with good results.
http://www.we-supply.com/browse.cfm/4,2915.html
Bill V

Do you know if the threaded barrel will fit through the cast iron headstock? The last one did, but it was tight.

That looks like a good switch, I don't particularly like the spade connectors, but it would work.

Thanks, I may order a couple to offset shipping, as I am (patiently) looking for another 10ER to restore ....

1/2" barrel on a toggle switch is standard. When the 10ER was made I am sure a standard toggle switch will fit. I don't think there is anything close that would not fit. Maybe metric, yeh made overseas. Different terminal configurations are available, just search the site. As you said the last one lasted 64 years. If you pay $3 for a toggle switch today you will probably get junk. If you pay $10 for a switch you will probably get a switch that will out last you. Your choice.

jsburger wrote:

rjent wrote:

wa2crk wrote:Dick
Sorry to break the bad news but any switch you get will be either Chinese crap or Mexican crap.
You may want to try this one. I have used these on MK V's with good results.
http://www.we-supply.com/browse.cfm/4,2915.html
Bill V

Do you know if the threaded barrel will fit through the cast iron headstock? The last one did, but it was tight.

That looks like a good switch, I don't particularly like the spade connectors, but it would work.

Thanks, I may order a couple to offset shipping, as I am (patiently) looking for another 10ER to restore ....

1/2" barrel on a toggle switch is standard. When the 10ER was made I am sure a standard toggle switch will fit. I don't think there is anything close that would not fit. Maybe metric, yeh made overseas. Different terminal configurations are available, just search the site. As you said the last one lasted 64 years. If you pay $3 for a toggle switch today you will probably get junk. If you pay $10 for a switch you will probably get a switch that will out last you. Your choice.

No S**t LOL
I don't care what I pay, I just want to buy a good one. Have you replaced any of yours? If so what switch did you go with and where did you get it? The last one, like I said, fit, but was about 5 "threads" too short. Some bean counter was saving money somewhere ....

Was your old switch rated for 3/4 hp or more? For switching an induction motor, you can't go by current rating alone. The motor inductance can quicky destroy switches that aren't rated for adequate hp.

You can get a properly rated switch for about four bucks. But if you prefer screw terminals, and want it to last a couple lifetimes, here's a heavy-duty switch that is rated 20A, 1-1/2 hp. You can click on the "technical data sheet" link for dimensioned mechanical drawings, and verify that it will fit your headstock.

Still only 13 bucks.

I'll repeat something I've talked about earlier. It isn't original and you will need to fab a bracket but this has worked well for me for several years now. http://www.grizzly.com/products/110V-Ma ... itch/H8240 You get a big E Stop button and magnetic switching to protect you if there is a power interruption. And now it is $10. I've got them on two 10ERs and a Mark VII (and since the Mark VII draws a lot more juice it increases the likelyhood it will not fail in service on a 10ER) But yes it isn't original looking. But I'm sure a fan.

Contact me if you want this switch
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321877234676?ss ... 1555.l2649

I've had no complaints on them. Cheaper off ebay.

Tom

FWIW, I believe the switch 'barrel' is 15/32, not 1/2.