Shopsmith Forums

Anyone use the drill press to drill holes into glass? Any suggestions for drill bits to use or the speed to run the drill at? (I have the sp reducer if needed).

Thanks,

Tim

Tim
There are drill bits especially made for drilling glass. From the little bit I know you use a lube like mineral oil (though I think you can drill it dry) and let the bit do the drilling.
The bit looks kind of like a spade mounted to rod, I think from what I remember you can also drill ceramic with it.
Ed

You can use bits like this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=42829

Home Depot sells a glass bit but more expensive. Just take it slow and they work good.

Suggestion, try on some blanks you want to throw out anyway first. I purchased a set of drills at State Fair that were made for glass and ceramic. I tried them a few times and broke the glass or tile EVERY time. I think I was rushing, but it is a skill I have not mastered. I wish you the best of luck.

timster68 wrote:Anyone use the drill press to drill holes into glass? Any suggestions for drill bits to use or the speed to run the drill at? (I have the sp reducer if needed).

Thanks,

Tim

Hi Tim,
To answer your first Q: The SS drill press is very suited for drilling glass. Any drill press wood be better then a hand drill for this and the large table on the SS makes for safer handling of the glass. I wood fully support the glass with wood, i.e., I wood not drill with a hole, of any size, under the glass.

To answer your third Q: The slowest speed using the speed reducer should be slow enough. I do not have the speed reducer, and I wood probably try my Mark V at the slowest speed setting.

Saved the second Q for last: Have you ever been to the Western Washington Fair (AKA "The Puyallup Fair") in September? Every year, there is a "booth" that has a demonstrator using bits to drill through any and every thing. I was impressed, and bought a set several years ago (they come in an metal index box). I have seen these drills go through ceramic, brick, hardened steel, glass (never seen a piece break yet, and he uses a cordless drill), concrete, wood, surgical steel, you name it. The demonstrator uses the same bit over and over. I have seen him drill a dozen holes through a Simonds Bastard file:D and then use the same bit to drill glass. They are only available at the fair (as far as I can remember), have a lifetime warranty and I have had no problem with them (actually, I do not use them for wood, as I like brad point and Forstner bits for that). They look like your standard mortar bit, but they don't act like them. While you are there, you can visit the SS booth too! (At least they have been there every year including last year, since I can remember.)

edit: These are probably the same bits that kalynzoo is not having any luck with. I personally have not had the need to drill glass yet.

I have drilled into (flat window) glass a few times, with 100% success.

First find some copper tube the correct diameter - I got mine from a RC Model shop.
Get some modeling clay - plasticene - I pinched some of my kids.
Get a small can of valve grinding paste (medium or fine works good) from auto supplies.
With modeling clay, make a well around the hole about 1/4 inch high and 1 1/2 inch diameter.
Force the copper tube into the grinding paste.
Set up ss in vertical mode.
Mount the glass on the table with support under - I used carpet underlay.
Fill the well with water.
Put copper tube in drill chuck.
Lower through water and drill at slowest setting keeping gentle preasure on the chuck feed.
Re-fill water & copper tube when needed.
Takes about 5 minutes for 1/4" dia hole

Good luck and hope all works out okay.

I just looked at my drills (yes purchased at the Fair) and found a link at http://www.ARTU.com. The drills have worked very well in concrete and brick. Used them on a steel swing set also. Not so good on soft stuff like wood. I remember trying it when I was too lazy to change bits...not a good idea. Again, I have never had much luck with glass, even purchased a glass cutter at Fair one year. Broke that glass too. I'm sure it just needs finess, some day I'll take the time to master it...just not today, or this week, or this month. Enjoy.

a1gutterman wrote:
Saved the second Q for last: Have you ever been to the Western Washington Fair (AKA "The Puyallup Fair") in September? Every year, there is a "booth" that has a demonstrator using bits to drill through any and every thing. I was impressed, and bought a set several years ago (they come in an metal index box). I have seen these drills go through ceramic, brick, hardened steel, glass (never seen a piece break yet, and he uses a cordless drill), concrete, wood, surgical steel, you name it. The demonstrator uses the same bit over and over. I have seen him drill a dozen holes through a Simonds Bastard file:D and then use the same bit to drill glass. They are only available at the fair (as far as I can remember), have a lifetime warranty and I have had no problem with them (actually, I do not use them for wood, as I like brad point and Forstner bits for that). They look like your standard mortar bit, but they don't act like them. While you are there, you can visit the SS booth too! (At least they have been there every year including last year, since I can remember.)

Yes I've been there in fact it was the fair a few years ago that I saw the Shopsmith for the very first time, and from that point on I was hooked. I'll probably go again this year - I'll keep my eye out for that booth.

Thanks to everyone on the suggestions. My wife likes these Pottery Barn candles/votives which have some sort of hole in them and hang directly on the wall. But they're $48 for 4 plus tax & s/h. Really silly for 4 pieces of glass, thus the need to drill some holes to make our "own" pottery barn imiation and for MUCH less. It'll be a good exercise for using my reducer to boot!!

i use a method similar to sandyj. i use copper tubing with either toothpaste or ajax for the compound. slow speed and steady pressure. Bob



edited to add that I did not mention adding water either from a spray bottle or a pond as Nick has suggested

No matter what method you use, the real trick to drilling glass is not to heat up the spot where the drill contacts the glass. Glass, like metal, expands when heated. Unlike metal, the molecular structure is extremely brittle. If the glass heats and expands at the point where the bit contacts it, the entire pane will crack just as if you had driven a wedge into it.

The copper pipe/grinding compound method is popular because the copper absorbs and dissipates the heat better than many other materials. I have also had success with carbide cutters, using plumbers putty and kerosene to create a little "pond" of coolant where I was drilling. Whatever method you use, go slowly. Retract and check the cutter often to make sure it is not heating up past warm. And if you use the same temperature-checker I do, make sure the cutter comes to a complete stop before you touch it.

With all good wishes,