Shopsmith Forums

I picked up that ER I posted as a deal on the Deals out there Thread, it is real clean, 3/4hp motor, scroll saw and sanding disk, plus the usual regular stuff that they had, oh and another shapper fence. Plus the coveted speed changer!!
Now to my question, ears on the SC are fine, crank turned a bit then resistance, but nothing happened, sheaves did not move or the ears, or the indicator, it is a 1-5. I did not have time to really investigate at the time, and still in the SS hauler. Threads are okay on the crank, I am thinking maybe a stripped ear. Looking for first thought opinions here.

What are the springs doing as you turn the crank? One compressing in one direction, and the other compressing in the opposite direction?

If so, I suspect the arm with the idler shaft is frozen (will not move).

In any event do not turn the crank past the point the spring being compressed is fully compressed.

I would remove the control crank etc. and check things out one part at a time.

Not for sure but was looking at the springs at the time, and noticed no compression at all, if I remember right. Thats the plan pretty much JPG, take it off the tubes and check it out one part at a time. Dont want to break that golden egg.

I agree with JPG. It sounds like the arm with the sheaves on it is frozen to the main casting. When you try to turn the crank all you are doing is taking up the slack in the mechanism and then it stops.

A good soak with penetrating oil should do the trick. Since aluminum doesn't corrode like steel or cast iron it is probably just stuck with dried up grease and saw dust. Actually a soak in mineral spirits might do the trick.

Just don't get too heavy handed since the parts are cast aluminum and easily cracked or broken.

Removed from the SS hauler and springs do collapse, to nice out here today and leaf/yard work to play with it and had to get a T Allen wrench set since all is in A town and I am at moms.
New question though, the non pivoting end support that the way tubes rest on is cast aluminum, I swear, I think on my other 2 it is cast iron, but again they are 90 miles away to look at them.
The guy I bought this from, his grand father bought it new.

ERLover wrote:Removed from the SS hauler and springs do collapse, to nice out here today and leaf/yard work to play with it and had to get a T Allen wrench set since all is in A town and I am at moms.
New question though, the non pivoting end support that the way tubes rest on is cast aluminum, I swear, I think on my other 2 it is cast iron, but again they are 90 miles away to look at them.
The guy I bought this from, his grand father bought it new.

I assume when you say the springs collapse you are talking about the speed changer. In that case what JPG and I said is correct. The pivoting arm that the sheaves are attached to is stuck on the main casting. Again, probably just hard grease and saw dust. It should not be a problem.

Yes, there are cast aluminum head rests. I think they were made in the last few years (or 1) of the 10ER production. I have a 1950, a 1951 and 3 1952s. They all have cast iron head rests. The MK 5 came out in 1953 and was/is aluminum so... The aluminum head rest is shaped differently. The feet flare out at the bottom where they bolt to the table.

Thanks John on that info, I got a scroll saw with it, that will be a whole different thread and subject, no pic, camera is in A town, but doing a rest-bit here with mom Dec 4-9th. so back up there, the guy never used it, I think without looking at any links/threads on it I may be missing some mounting parts.
OBTW I never gorilla things unless the last resort and I think it can handle it, finesse is always been my forte', work smarter not harder!!!

ERLover wrote:Thanks John on that info, I got a scroll saw with it, that will be a whole different thread and subject, no pic, camera is in A town, but doing a rest-bit here with mom Dec 4-9th. so back up there, the guy never used it, I think without looking at any links/threads on it I may be missing some mounting parts.
OBTW I never gorilla things unless the last resort and I think it can handle it, finesse is always been my forte', work smarter not harder!!!

Me too. I am with you all the way. About 6 months ago I had a 10ER head rest that I wanted to remove the Morse taper center. It would not budge with days and days with Kroil. I only had a crows foot with a 1/2" ratchet. No go. So I thought a socket would make the difference. A friend had the socket and a breaker bar. No go. Put a 3' pipe on the breaker bar and laid the side of the head rest on the concrete floor and it broke loose. Surprised the casting didn't break. Absolutely NO rust. Amasing!

2 Martinis, b4 dinner and a nice bottle of Chardeny with, back to the recorded Packer game, anyway cant think of the right word, but I think and I know the guy with the Amish Hat will correct me, and hopefully so, 2 different metals, electrolysis, depending on the metals.

Galvanic corrosion....