My adaption of a router table
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 1:18 am
A long time ago, Steve (cooch366) was posting about how he had a SS table modified to take a router and recently showed his design again.
At that time, I had similar thoughts but went a different route for a few reasons.
First, ease of setup and removal. With my design the table sets on the tubes. The weight of the router and table easily keeps it in place.
Second it HAD to follow the edge contours of a 520 table. The reason for that is that I use the router table with an INCRA TS-LS and Wonder fence, which has "runners". Those runners are positioned just above and outside the edge of the rails assemblies.
I have this fitted between the two tables, however it could be placed at either end with extension tubes (and legs for bracing) if I want a lower height and want to use it strictly as a router table.
When I first proposed the idea, Dusty asked about the router hitting the way tubes. If I lower the main table to a height where a 2by could set on top of the headstock, there is enough clearance for my main router (Triton).
I had also considered getting the rail assemblies and attaching them to a melamine top cut to the correct dimension and therefore not cutting up a table, but I would have had to hold and align that table between the two others while trying to insert the tubes. Just too much work for this old fart.
Anyway, was doing some cleaning and decided to take a couple pictures. The red metal "L" brackets came with the INCRA table to be used for attaching to a conventional saw. I just used them for my own purposes.
I did notch out the areas where the nubs on the main table protrude. With the main table pushed as far as it can go, there is about a 1/4" gap for the table to set snugly between the two tables OR I can push everything together for a nearly seamless top. On a large piece I was able to use the miter gauge in the main table to help guide work as it passed the router bit, but it was almost too much to push safely!
Anyway, it works for my needs.
Sorry this took such a long time to get posted.
Be well,
Ben
At that time, I had similar thoughts but went a different route for a few reasons.
First, ease of setup and removal. With my design the table sets on the tubes. The weight of the router and table easily keeps it in place.
Second it HAD to follow the edge contours of a 520 table. The reason for that is that I use the router table with an INCRA TS-LS and Wonder fence, which has "runners". Those runners are positioned just above and outside the edge of the rails assemblies.
I have this fitted between the two tables, however it could be placed at either end with extension tubes (and legs for bracing) if I want a lower height and want to use it strictly as a router table.
When I first proposed the idea, Dusty asked about the router hitting the way tubes. If I lower the main table to a height where a 2by could set on top of the headstock, there is enough clearance for my main router (Triton).
I had also considered getting the rail assemblies and attaching them to a melamine top cut to the correct dimension and therefore not cutting up a table, but I would have had to hold and align that table between the two others while trying to insert the tubes. Just too much work for this old fart.
Anyway, was doing some cleaning and decided to take a couple pictures. The red metal "L" brackets came with the INCRA table to be used for attaching to a conventional saw. I just used them for my own purposes.
I did notch out the areas where the nubs on the main table protrude. With the main table pushed as far as it can go, there is about a 1/4" gap for the table to set snugly between the two tables OR I can push everything together for a nearly seamless top. On a large piece I was able to use the miter gauge in the main table to help guide work as it passed the router bit, but it was almost too much to push safely!
Anyway, it works for my needs.
Sorry this took such a long time to get posted.
Be well,
Ben