Shopsmith Forums

After upgrading to a PowerPro I a have been wanting to try out a new vertical raised panel bit

(http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... bits2.html)

with the shopsmith set up in the horizontal position. I looked at the the Shopsmith Power Tool Workworking section online for advice and found this:

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/routin ... 0-19LG.jpg

It shows the stock being run under the bit on the worktable. Has anyone tried this? My instincts are not to trap the stock between the bit and the table. I would put the bit under the stock off to the side of the table and run the stock on top of the table against the fence. The stock to be cut would overhang the edge of the table to engage the bit below it.

Anyone have advice as to the safest approach?

Doesn't sound too stable to me. The bit would have way too much leverage to pull the board out of your control. IMHO, I would do it in vertical mode using the fence and take light passes until you get the depth you need.

Edit: That would be under table routing. Unless you have a Mark 7, use a router table.

Pinning the wood between the bit and the table as shown in that picture is a bad plan for even the rabbet cut they are showing but for a raised panel could be dangerous. Always have the bit below the piece. This will give you a better result in the cut and be infinitely safer. When cutting raised panels plan on making several passes for each panel. I usually run all the panels through increasing the depth of cut incrementally and try to make the last pass a very slight finishing cut. That will give you the best results on the end grain cuts. This is one time that the adjustable stop collars are invaluable. One question. Is the raised panel bit small enough to fit through the opening in the SS table ? That could be an issue.
Paul

I have cut many tenons that way and it works fine. Just do not take a deep cut.

However, it seems that you are talking about cutting stiles and rails for a raised panel door. Quite a different game. I can just see the work piece as it goes flying across the shop when you loose control and the cutter seizes control.

Since you might have the ability to go to having the router below the table (this assumes you have the double tilt feature) this would be both the safest and best way to go.

Vertical panel bits are not something I own but it is not unlike other profile cutters so the cutter is buried in a fence and one side of the work piece is against the table and other is against the fence. Making several passes would give the best results.

If you don't already have a fence that allows the bit to be buried then you will need to make/buy one. I'd also think you should invest in some feather boards or make your own, they pay for themselves the first time you use them.

You will also need some sort of insert to eliminate any large opening between the table and the bit. This you will have to make yourself as shopsmith doesn't make them. I have shown this a few time in the past but I don't have the link to those posts at my finger tips.

Ed

dusty wrote:I have cut many tenons that way and it works fine. Just do not take a deep cut.

However, it seems that you are talking about cutting stiles and rails for a raised panel door. Quite a different game. I can just see the work piece as it goes flying across the shop when you loose control and the cutter seizes control.

I just wanted to confirm that that someone actually used this technique successfully. So it sounds like using the miter gauge to stabilize the cut keeps things from getting out of control. I don't plan to cut stiles and rails this way but the raised panels themselves. The vertical raised panel bit is a safer alternative to the huge 3" diameter bits typically used for this purpose in under the table routers. Companies make horizontal router tables with the router mounted at 90 degrees on the side of the table just for this purpose.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... tab_anchor

This is what I am trying to accomplish with a Shopsmith setup. The question is should the bit engage the stock from the top or bottom.

sehast wrote:

dusty wrote:I have cut many tenons that way and it works fine. Just do not take a deep cut.

However, it seems that you are talking about cutting stiles and rails for a raised panel door. Quite a different game. I can just see the work piece as it goes flying across the shop when you loose control and the cutter seizes control.

I just wanted to confirm that that someone actually used this technique successfully. So it sounds like using the miter gauge to stabilize the cut keeps things from getting out of control. I don't plan to cut stiles and rails this way but the raised panels themselves. The vertical raised panel bit is a safer alternative to the huge 3" diameter bits typically used for this purpose in under the table routers. Companies make horizontal router tables with the router mounted at 90 degrees on the side of the table just for this purpose.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... tab_anchor

This is what I am trying to accomplish with a Shopsmith setup. The question is should the bit engage the stock from the top or bottom.

To do that in horizontal mode, I'd add a "sacrificial table" on top of the SS table, and bury the panel-raising bit in that sacrificial table. Then the panel can be run across the top of the bit, instead of being trapped underneath. I think I'd also add a fence to the headstock side of that sacrificial table as well, instead of trying to guide the panel on its opposite side (against the SS fence). That would give you the same cutting configuration as that horizontal router table in your link.

If you need more vertical clearance for the bit, you could let the sacrificial table overhang the SS table on the headstock side, so that the bit is located entirely to the left of the SS table.

To avoid accuracy and chatter problems due to table flex, I'd be tempted to connect the main table to the aux table with the connector tubes, thus making the table good and stiff in the tilt direction. Of course, this would make it a PITA to adjust the router-bit depth of cut. But once set, you could probably make your initial (partial) cuts by backing off the spindle extension, and use the depth stop to get a repeatable full-depth cut.

It seems the joint tech has a sibling!

I agree with Buckeye on all counts.

Implied but not mentioned is the effect vertical movement of the workpiece has on the result. When 'trapped'(between the cutter and the table) the cutter will gouge. When 'free' above, a high spot is created that can be removed with a second pass.

JPG wrote:It seems the joint tech has a sibling!

I agree with Buckeye on all counts.

Implied but not mentioned is the effect vertical movement of the workpiece has on the result. When 'trapped'(between the cutter and the table) the cutter will gouge. When 'free' above, a high spot is created that can be removed with a second pass.

Thanks guys, good suggestions.

I guess I have to ask why you think you need to work in the horizontal plane? Yes the place you have looked at the bits says that is the best way to go but then they are interested in sell you one of there horizontal routing tables. Just make sure you know what you are getting into to do that on a shopsmith. Can it be done? Sure but is that the best way?

I could go into a lot of details but I'm not in the mood. Rather then that take a look at how the rest of the world does it.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking ... anel-bits/

A lot of places sell these and they are interned to work in the vertical as well as the horizontal and most often used in the vertical because that is what most people have.

Anyway it is your choice so do as you see fit I'll no longer push for vertical use after this post.

Ed