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Any BTDT on the 500 Saw Guard Upgrade?

Posted: Tue May 06, 2008 4:40 pm
by johnm
My long-awaited 500 saw guard upgrade came in last week and I thought I would install it this weekend but only got as far as reading the instructions. It seems I need to hacksaw off part of the tie bar :eek: and then drill and tap some holes there. Looks like I have one shot to do it right.

Anyone done this? How hard is it really? Am I worrying too much?

Thanks in advance!

one shot on the table

Posted: Tue May 06, 2008 10:28 pm
by jbemis
I chickened out and bought one on ebay tha had the work aready completed.

The table strut has ground down instead of hacksawed off.

Bolts on the support arms for the dust collector had already been tapped out.

My friend the machinist indicated that it was not a trivial task to perform.

Good luck

Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 9:10 am
by sandyj
My first aquisition was the upgraded saw guard upper and lower, for my 60s MK5. (Bought for me by friend because i munted my left thumb knuckle on another brand of saw.)
The drilling was scary at first (one shot etc) but measure and check and measure again. The tapping was okay but I took it slow. - No problem with having to remove any metal off the tie bar - just didn't happen.
But some how, I find now after using it for over 5 years the saw guard dosen't allow the table to come all the way down by 1/4". (never had in fact) By moving the quill out by about 3/8s I get a better seating. Had to make another insert and now the blade is more towards the right of the centre. Would this be normal? - any help appreciated.
The Dust collection seems to be amiss as there is quite a gap between the lower guard and the part you put on the tie bar.
I didn't mean to highjack your thread but your enquiry jogged my memory - sorry about that John.

Regards
Sandy

Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 10:16 am
by johnm
sandyj wrote:My first aquisition was the upgraded saw guard upper and lower, for my 60s MK5. (Bought for me by friend because i munted my left thumb knuckle on another brand of saw.)
The drilling was scary at first (one shot etc) but measure and check and measure again. The tapping was okay but I took it slow. - No problem with having to remove any metal off the tie bar - just didn't happen.

...
Regards
Sandy
I guess I'll just plow ahead and start sawin' (the tie bar, that is) according to instructions and see what happens. Worst thing that can happen is I'll need to buy a new tie bar assembly.

Maybe this is why everyone wants to work in the software field...just run the installer and you're "upgraded" :)

Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 12:17 pm
by johnm
sandyj wrote:
...
- No problem with having to remove any metal off the tie bar - just didn't happen.
But some how, I find now after using it for over 5 years the saw guard dosen't allow the table to come all the way down by 1/4". (never had in fact) By moving the quill out by about 3/8s I get a better seating. Had to make another insert and now the blade is more towards the right of the centre. Would this be normal? - any help appreciated.
...
Maybe that's why they have you saw off part of the tie bar?

Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 10:59 pm
by sandyj
"Maybe that's why they have you saw off part of the tie bar?"

Your probably correct - I have not kept that part of the instructions - I usually file everything.

However the obstruction is actually the lower guard before the tie bar - It will sit better in the recess for the throat insert.

Anyway what's 1/4"
I have managed so far. Just thought maybe this has been noted and possibly resolved.
Any chance of getting a paragraph of the instructions relating to the tie bar so I can reinvestigate and possibly reorder the black plastic cover to go on the tie bar?

Thankyou
Sandy