Shopsmith Forums

Anybody use them? Does it make a difference? Are there any brands other than Forrest?

Thanks

Jerome

I was wondering the same thing this morning. What are the advantages?

I have a Delta 10" table saw, not a cabinet saw, I use a Freud thin kirf rib line blade, I came across a Crapsman set of those in a SS buy, I put them on and I think it helps but lost about 1/4-3/8" of blade height cutting, not a problem for me. Dont know how much they cost, but over 15$ I would not run out and buy them, if you have a good blade and riffing knife on your TS.

In a hind sight, how would you monitor/analyze a difference? I mean wood has tension in it, so how do you repeat a cut and find a common denominator? I am not in an analyzing mode tonight, but I bet if Dusty reads this, by his coffee time tomorrow will have a way to analyze/measure the difference, that is one of his great traits.
I would think you would have to have a carbide blade and maybe be cutting aluminum to analyzes/measure the kirf space from the blade kirf, then what, run out on the blade shaft, the difference of the space, it is wood project, a 32nd is acceptable, a 64th is exceptional.

I used a set of 3" and 4" saw blade stabilizers/dampers with the cheap $10 or less 10" saw blades I purchased for many years. It seems to have kept the cheap saw blades in better tooth alignment for rougher types of sawing.

Bill good to see up and about!! I can see that on a cheap blade, but I run Freuds, cant afford that other one,cant think of there name. Got it while looking for that part #, Forester Blades, dont know how much better but have heard great things, but can buy 2 Freuds for one of theres, always been happy with the "'slip"'
OBTW I need a pin for an Er tail stock, I think part number 2265, let me look that up, yes on VM Er parts list "pin" part # 2265, if you have a spare PM me and I will pay for all.

I have a set but have not used them in years. I may have even gotten them for my other table saw that I sold after getting my shopsmith. I think I may have used them a little back then with the old steel blades but then they don't fit the saw arbors so you have to use them on the universal arbors. I should mention they are for a 5/8" shaft which is now the only size blades I use.

The older blades were in need of stablization but the newer better blades do not need them and even if they could be used you are still better off staying with the shopsmith saw arbors for several good reasons. Alignment with the system being the prime reason, you want the top guard to fit and provide the anti-kick back and other safety features......

I get my blades from Infinity and they do sell them and so do other blade makers but I have no idea why. Better quality blades are extreemly stable and if you are having problems with that issue then you have something more to worry about, yes your saw is most likely missed up.

Ed

reible,
Anybody use them? Does it make a difference? Are there any brands other than Forrest?

he did not say he was having a problem, but was wondering if any one used them and why!!!

ERLover wrote:reible,
Anybody use them? Does it make a difference? Are there any brands other than Forrest?

he did not say he was having a problem, but was wondering if any one used them and why!!!

If sumthin ain't broke, don fixit!

I have a set made by Craftsman. I have had them for years and still use them on the thin curf blades. The loss of blade height is not important as I only use the thin curf blades for veneer ply. They work well to stabilize the thin blades.
Paul