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Making a frame for a ceramic tile arrangement that will serve as the top of a coffee table. The frame is 3/4" oak boards glued together. Each piece is 30" by 3" by 1 1/2". The plans (see attached) call for a 30 degree bevel on the underside of the frame. Try as I may I am unable to figure out how to get the table, the saw blade and fence to a configuration that would allow this cut. I have a 520 with power Pro upgrade. I did move head stock all the way to right.

I'm not sure exactly what your problem is, though bevel operations can be a little tricky to set up. I usually end up raising the table before tilting it. Then, I slowly lower it over the blade while advancing and retracting the quill to get the blade to slide through the slot.

This help?

bill120 wrote:[img]IMG_0897.JPG[/img]

Making a frame for a ceramic tile arrangement that will serve as the top of a coffee table. The frame is 3/4" oak boards glued together. Each piece is 30" by 3" by 1 1/2". The plans (see attached) call for a 30 degree bevel on the underside of the frame. Try as I may I am unable to figure out how to get the table, the saw blade and fence to a configuration that would allow this cut. I have a 520 with power Pro upgrade. I did move head stock all the way to right.

I often have trouble visualizing the setup and it often results in going to the shop (which I am unable to do right now).

I would take the table insert out it for now. Do the setup. You can now see the saw blade and whatever may be in the way. Once the setup is done REINSTALL the insert and go do bevel cuts.

You may have to cut a dedicated insert. Though I don't
think so on this one.

He only needs to tilt the table 30°.

There seems to be two issues I am definitely getting interference from the lower saw guard and I need the blade height to be about a 1/4" higher but it won't go any higher. The clamps are there only to support the piece while I am setting it up for the cut.

bill120 wrote:
There seems to be two issues I am definitely getting interference from the lower saw guard and I need the blade height to be about a 1/4" higher but it won't go any higher. The clamps are there only to support the piece while I am setting it up for the cut.

Remove the lower saw guard for this operation/

Make sure to use a featherboard or two to hold the piece tight to the rip fence.

I not believe you need to or should remove the lower saw guard for this operation. If you have not already done so, close the lower saw guard, which is interfering with the tie bar guard and preventing the table from being lowered.

algale wrote:I not believe you need to or should remove the lower saw guard for this operation. If you have not already done so, close the lower saw guard, which is interfering with the tie bar guard and preventing the table from being lowered.

I agree. This is not a difficult cut to make but you need to advance the quill to place the blade in the center of the saw insert and you need to keep the guard near the blade. I've done this a lot of times and it works.

If need be I can go and set up my saw so you can see how it is done but I will not be able to do that until much later in the day.

Ed

Thank you Ed, algate and charlese. My saw guard has been a little beat up over the years and with a some pressure I got it to close tighter. I advanced the quill as far as I could to the right and that gave me the blade height I needed. Also, I was so focused on the cut, angle and blade height I forgot about the feather board. Thanks for the reminder.

Bill