Shopsmith Forums

I am going to try and resaw some cherry on my bandsaw and I have never did this before. What width blade do I need to get and any other tips would be helpful. Thanks Ivan

Ivan
Couple of questions first. What is the width of the board you want to resaw? I have found that a few things need to be considered; first the edge that will be on the table must be square to the face that will be against the fence. The blade should have 3 to 4 teeth per inch and should be 1/2" wide.
Most importantly the saw must be tuned properly for a proper resaw. Also do not cut too fast or push too hard. Let the saw do the work. The teeth must have time to clear the accumulated saw dust from the gullet. any bowing of the cut or deviation in the cut will most probably be caused by one of these conditions. Use a feather board to hold the stock tight to the fence. Position the feather board right up to the leading edge of the teeth.
The fence MUST be at a 90 deg angle to the table and the blade has to be parallel to the fence. Proper set up is essential to a good re saw. If you can, try some practice cuts on some scrap.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:Ivan
Couple of questions first. What is the width of the board you want to resaw? I have found that a few things need to be considered; first the edge that will be on the table must be square to the face that will be against the fence. The blade should have 3 to 4 teeth per inch and should be 1/2" wide.
Most importantly the saw must be tuned properly for a proper resaw. Also do not cut too fast or push too hard. Let the saw do the work. The teeth must have time to clear the accumulated saw dust from the gullet. any bowing of the cut or deviation in the cut will most probably be caused by one of these conditions. Use a feather board to hold the stock tight to the fence. Position the feather board right up to the leading edge of the teeth.
The fence MUST be at a 90 deg angle to the table and the blade has to be parallel to the fence. Proper set up is essential to a good re saw. If you can, try some practice cuts on some scrap.
Bill V

As someone currently having difficult resawing thicker stock, maybe I'm not the right guy to nitpick this response, but what do you mean for the blade to be parallel to the fence? I believe the fence must be adjusted for the blade's lead. My recent experience tells me this may result in a fence that is not parallel to the blade's surface but is parallel to the direction the blade cuts at.

algale wrote:

wa2crk wrote:Ivan
Couple of questions first. What is the width of the board you want to resaw? I have found that a few things need to be considered; first the edge that will be on the table must be square to the face that will be against the fence. The blade should have 3 to 4 teeth per inch and should be 1/2" wide.
Most importantly the saw must be tuned properly for a proper resaw. Also do not cut too fast or push too hard. Let the saw do the work. The teeth must have time to clear the accumulated saw dust from the gullet. any bowing of the cut or deviation in the cut will most probably be caused by one of these conditions. Use a feather board to hold the stock tight to the fence. Position the feather board right up to the leading edge of the teeth.
The fence MUST be at a 90 deg angle to the table and the blade has to be parallel to the fence. Proper set up is essential to a good re saw. If you can, try some practice cuts on some scrap.
Bill V

As someone currently having difficult resawing thicker stock, maybe I'm not the right guy to nitpick this response, but what do you mean for the blade to be parallel to the fence? I believe the fence must be adjusted for the blade's lead. My recent experience tells me this may result in a fence that is not parallel to the blade's surface but is parallel to the direction the blade cuts at.

I struggled with that statement as well. It is meant in the vertical direction. i.e. 'roll' Drift adjustments are 'yaw'. I do not think 'pitch' matters unless the wood is full of it!

Ivan just follow a few of the afore mentioned steps and you will be fine. Tune up the saw, make sure your guide blocks are in good shape and use a sharp 1/2" blade as mentioned. The SS bandsaw does a fine job of resawing. You just can't be in a hurry.
Paul

masonsailor2 wrote:Ivan just follow a few of the afore mentioned steps and you will be fine. Tune up the saw, make sure your guide blocks are in good shape and use a sharp 1/2" blade as mentioned. The SS bandsaw does a fine job of resawing. You just can't be in a hurry.
Paul

Well Al, that should be quite comforting to thee!

JPG wrote:

masonsailor2 wrote:Ivan just follow a few of the afore mentioned steps and you will be fine. Tune up the saw, make sure your guide blocks are in good shape and use a sharp 1/2" blade as mentioned. The SS bandsaw does a fine job of resawing. You just can't be in a hurry.
Paul

Well Al, that should be quite comforting to thee!