Shopsmith Forums

I replace my gilmer belt and in doing so dropped the pan down to get the idler shaft out so it was out of the way, I dropped the idler shaft and sheaves on the floor and it came apart. I re assembled it and now the sheaves want to move too far apart that they allow the belt to go down to far and get caught on the sheave fin shoulders and jam the machine from turning.

What might I have done wrong? I have not take it all apart again as I suspected that I may have not found one or both clips and they being missing if they are is the root of the problem.

Any thoughts???

Tom...

TomHoffman wrote:I replace my gilmer belt and in doing so dropped the pan down to get the idler shaft out so it was out of the way, I dropped the idler shaft and sheaves on the floor and it came apart. I re assembled it and now the sheaves want to move too far apart that they allow the belt to go down to far and get caught on the sheave fin shoulders and jam the machine from turning.

What might I have done wrong? I have not take it all apart again as I suspected that I may have not found one or both clips and they being missing if they are is the root of the problem.

Any thoughts???

Tom...

The 'clips' position the eccentric bushing/bearing in/out. Perhaps the eccentric is not positioned 'into' the headstock sufficiently.

OK, that makes sense, I couldn't figure out why the bushing wanted to go so far back into the machine, so I slid it out to come in contact with the keeper screw/washer on the exterior, so the clip must be missing, I have ordered replacements for both clips so when I dissemble, I will have what ever is missing. I do have the key for the slot so with those two clips, I should be good.

I hope that turns out to be the case.

TomHoffman wrote:OK, that makes sense, I couldn't figure out why the bushing wanted to go so far back into the machine, so I slid it out to come in contact with the keeper screw/washer on the exterior, so the clip must be missing, I have ordered replacements for both clips so when I dissemble, I will have what ever is missing. I do have the key for the slot so with those two clips, I should be good.

I hope that turns out to be the case.

I think a pix is advisable here. I am concerned re terminology and common understanding. The 'two clips' you are referring to may not be what I understand that to mean. Where did you 'order the clips'. The clips I was referring to have not been in production for over a half century. If the screw/washer are there, the 'clips' should not have.

With the Gilmer belt alignment is established to the belt/pulleys. If you have the screw/washer, then you should also have a pointy set screw in the eccentric that secures the bearing. The 'point' registers in a groove around the bearing. The set screw is at the thickest part of the eccentric. That set screw should not be aggressively tightened.

I understand about the set screw. I have watched the videos on SM the two clips are what are listed on the schematic on SN site for the M 5. Part # 106 & 107 I believe, I ordered them from SM. .80 cents each. One is horse shoe shaped with a flat top and the other I can't remember the shape. Then also there is the long thin key for the key way slot to keep the sheaves from rotating on the shaft.

One sheave is fixed close to the toothed drive sprocket, the other is (at least on mine) free floating along the shaft it can move at least an inch which lets the belt go too far down and get caught by the sheave fin shoulders and it jams and stops the turning and blows a breaker.

I am waiting for the clips to come and may be I can figure it out, Jacob Anderson is going to shoot a video on the proper installation and also the proper set up of the speed dial prior to start up after repairs have been made, that also is an issue that I dont know about as we disassembled and moved the speed dial after the "Pork Chop" clip had been disengaged to let the idler shaft loose to install the motor "V" belt.

TomHoffman wrote:I understand about the set screw. I have watched the videos on SM the two clips are what are listed on the schematic on SN site for the M 5. Part # 106 & 107 I believe, I ordered them from SM. .80 cents each. One is horse shoe shaped with a flat top and the other I can't remember the shape. Then also there is the long thin key for the key way slot to keep the sheaves from rotating on the shaft.

One sheave is fixed close to the toothed drive sprocket, the other is (at least on mine) free floating along the shaft it can move at least an inch which lets the belt go too far down and get caught by the sheave fin shoulders and it jams and stops the turning and blows a breaker.

I am waiting for the clips to come and may be I can figure it out, Jacob Anderson is going to shoot a video on the proper installation and also the proper set up of the speed dial prior to start up after repairs have been made, that also is an issue that I dont know about as we disassembled and moved the speed dial after the "Pork Chop" clip had been disengaged to let the idler shaft loose to install the motor "V" belt.

106 will help! 107, not likely, but needs to be replaced.

Setting the outer dial is quite simple.

Does require taking the control knob off/on repeatedly.

I'm having a problem with my speed control assembly. I can't get it in there flush. It keeps hitting the pulley arbor and will not sit flush. Does anybody have any ideas or what I'm doing wrong???

Photos always help. You might be pinching the lower belt (motor belt) between the two sheaves. What you want is to slide the Control Sheave farther onto the Idler Shaft (a Slow position) while installing the speed control, then draw the Control Sheave back to connect it. You might also have the speed control adjusted to a too slow a position. I would probably set it all the way to Fast. I do this with the belt out of the way, I normally take it off the motor sheaves while working on the speed control.

- David

AAAHHH. Any photos...?

Pcinoregon,

David is referring to pictures of your Shopsmith showing the problem you are having. There have been a number of changes over the years and this thread started out talking about a Mark 5 made in the 1950's. There are some unique parts in it that are not in a Mark V headstock today.