Shopsmith Forums

I wanted to cut a 45 degree bevel dado using a 3/8ths inch wide dado stack. I could not get this to work on my 520 with the standard dado arbor and standard dado table insert .

The problem was that either (a) the left edge of the dado table insert interfered with the left side of the dado stack or (b) if I tried to move the blade to the right to get enough clearance between the insert and the blade, the end of the dado arbor would interfere with the tie bar. (I now have a little wear spot on the tie bar where the end of the arbor rubbed it when I started up the 520, unaware the end of the arbor was making contact.)

I tried using different numbers and combinations of washers on the dado arbor to no avail. Ultimately, I had to abandon my initial plan and switch to a 1/4 inch wide dado stack and an extra washer on the left side of the dado arbor. This barely allowed me to get the blade up through the standard dado table insert with a little clearance between the end of the arbor and the tie bar.

I should point out that with a custom table insert, this could have been accomplished with a 3/8ths wide dado as I originally had planned. I probably could have made one more quickly than it took me to play around unsuccessfully trying to use the standard insert.

Al, I had the same problem when trying to use the V-groove molder knives with the table tilted 20 degrees. In my case, the workpiece was both large and rigid, so I simply removed the molder/dado insert and made the cut without an insert. It worked just fine.

For an angled cut that really needs an insert, I think that using your dado stack to cut a blank ZCI would be the way to go. After making sure that it clears everything when no insert is installed, of course.

It has been a while but I have done something similar cuts but don't remember the details. If I recall you have the 8" dado set, is that correct? I also assume you have the newer universal arbor that is 3-3/8" long with the wider 3/4" spacer?

How deep were you trying to cut?

When it warms I want to take a look at this as I recall having done this but perhaps it was with a homemade table insert.

I have run into the length issue with the arbor/tie bar before on a few occasions but I don't recall the times or what I was doing at the time. Kind of an unexpected thing to run into.

Some where I have some notes on washer stacking on the arbor and I seem to recall that you should extend the blade so the nut/keyed washer and thin large washer still fits on but as far out on the shaft as it will go minus the nut, keyed washer and thin washer. Does that make sense?

Ed

Hi Ed,

Yes I do have an 8" dado head and was using it on the "new" dado arbor. The stack was as far right as I could get iit which meant no spacer to the right side at all - just the keyed washer and nut which was fully threaded on and dead even with the end of the arbor.

Third party jam nut?

JPG wrote:Third party jam nut?

If I understand you, you are suggesting substituting a thinner jam nut. That won't help because the threads will stick out beyond a thinner nut. The factory nut was flush with the end of the arbor threads.

algale wrote:

JPG wrote:Third party jam nut?

If I understand you, you are suggesting substituting a thinner jam nut. That won't help because the threads will stick out beyond a thinner nut. The factory nut was flush with the end of the arbor threads.

Yes one must add spacers/nut on the back side so the jam nut just fits on the end.

This should be done with care!!!!!!!!

JPG wrote:

algale wrote:

JPG wrote:Third party jam nut?

If I understand you, you are suggesting substituting a thinner jam nut. That won't help because the threads will stick out beyond a thinner nut. The factory nut was flush with the end of the arbor threads.

Yes one must add spacers/nut on the back side so the jam nut just fits on the end.

This should be done with care!!!!!!!!

? There was no issue on the right side. The stack was as far right as it could go, nut flush with end of threads. The problem was there was no clearance on the left side with the 3/8ths dado stack and the standard dado insert and if I tried to create clearance to the left, it pushed the nut on the right into the tie bar.

I thought the arbor/nut were interfering with the tie bar.

With a shallower nut, the stack will be closer to the end of the arbor thus increasing left side clearance by the difference in the nut thicknesses.

JPG wrote:I thought the arbor/nut were interfering with the tie bar.

With a shallower nut, the stack will be closer to the end of the arbor thus increasing left side clearance by the difference in the nut thicknesses.

Ah, yes, I see your thinking now. The problem would be that there are only certain thickness standard spacers/washers available to go to the left of the stack so a thinner jam nut would not change the left side registration, which wouldn't clear the insert.

The real solution to this is a custom table insert.