Today in the shop (another reason to learn to turn)
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 1:13 am
I picked up a new router and wanted to mount it in a old table I had in the shop. I use to use it as my portable router table but I haven't had a call for working else where for a while so it has been sitting router less for a few years.
I had looked at getting router to keep in the table and final found one that I liked but it wasn't quite the right time. Then I came upon the same router and it seem like a pretty good deal. You can find more information on that here:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gener ... 17622.html
One of the things that needed to be done was to drill the router table insert to fit the router. The router table was one I picked up really cheap at Sears, I'm thinking maybe $35 for the whole thing including the fence. But the plate was drilled for some model sears router(s) and this router has a totally different base.
I don't love the tables plate but for now I'm just going to use it. It has a couple of inserts to reduce the hole size but that is about it, three sizes I believe. There is no provision for guide bushings. For now I can live with this.
Pictured is the table insert on the left and the routers sub-base on the right. The insert is only 7" x 8" so yes it is going to be a tight fit.
When you put the two of them together the center holes don't match and I did not expect them to. You can see the relationship here:
So here comes the lathe function come in to do this alignment job. I took a piece of 3/4" pine and chucked it up and turned the outside of pine to fit the larger of the holes, that being the hole in the table insert. I did it a little at a time until it just fit on. You know the try it then turn a bit more off and try it....
Then I turned a step that was the same size as the router sub-base hole. Same try and turn steps. When I was done I had two different size circles that were concentric due to the lathe turning process.
Now I could simply use this piece of wood to make sure the alignment would be right on. Yes I could have guessed and got it close enough but then what fun would that have been?
So now I insert the wooden jig in the hole of the table insert.
Note that the table insert has to be in the same orientation as it will mount the router, just in case the hole pattern is not symmetrical.
Now the sub-base has to be in the same orientation as it mounts on the router as well so they match.
Then I had to figure out how the router was going to set in the table. The router has a dust port, it has a power switch, it has a fine adjustment knob, it has a lock and then the button to slide the router up and down for course adjustment. I was going to mount it so that most of the controls were mounted to the front and square on. That would have worked except for the small detail of the adjuster that fits on for above the table adjustments would then be where the fence sets..... Yea it can't work there.
I managed to find a compromise where I can reach the power switch and cover/lock and the height locking lever towards the back. The handle button is easy to access as is the fine adjuster and the top handle is now in front of the fence.
The cabinet has a power switch so for most of the time I can just leave the router on and that becomes the switch. For bit changes they have an interlock so I will have to turn the router off to get in to the spindle lock position for bit changes but it seems pretty do able.
With the location established it was time to bring the job home. This is were a set of transfer punches come in handy. Using the hole in the sub-base as a guide I was able to mark the table insert hole locations.
The punch leaves a small indent where the center is for the drilling operation. It is hard to see in the picture so I made it easier to find.
This is the end of this post. The drilling and countersinking and that sort of thing I figure you already know about. Oh I did have to drill one more hole for the crank........ and yes it all fit and work out fine.
Ed
I had looked at getting router to keep in the table and final found one that I liked but it wasn't quite the right time. Then I came upon the same router and it seem like a pretty good deal. You can find more information on that here:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gener ... 17622.html
One of the things that needed to be done was to drill the router table insert to fit the router. The router table was one I picked up really cheap at Sears, I'm thinking maybe $35 for the whole thing including the fence. But the plate was drilled for some model sears router(s) and this router has a totally different base.
I don't love the tables plate but for now I'm just going to use it. It has a couple of inserts to reduce the hole size but that is about it, three sizes I believe. There is no provision for guide bushings. For now I can live with this.
Pictured is the table insert on the left and the routers sub-base on the right. The insert is only 7" x 8" so yes it is going to be a tight fit.
- IMG_0729sc.jpg (132.02 KiB) Viewed 3985 times
- IMG_0730sc.jpg (128.99 KiB) Viewed 3985 times
Then I turned a step that was the same size as the router sub-base hole. Same try and turn steps. When I was done I had two different size circles that were concentric due to the lathe turning process.
- IMG_0731sc.jpg (97.76 KiB) Viewed 3985 times
So now I insert the wooden jig in the hole of the table insert.
- IMG_0732sc.jpg (128.05 KiB) Viewed 3985 times
- IMG_0733sc.jpg (113.94 KiB) Viewed 3985 times
Then I had to figure out how the router was going to set in the table. The router has a dust port, it has a power switch, it has a fine adjustment knob, it has a lock and then the button to slide the router up and down for course adjustment. I was going to mount it so that most of the controls were mounted to the front and square on. That would have worked except for the small detail of the adjuster that fits on for above the table adjustments would then be where the fence sets..... Yea it can't work there.
I managed to find a compromise where I can reach the power switch and cover/lock and the height locking lever towards the back. The handle button is easy to access as is the fine adjuster and the top handle is now in front of the fence.
The cabinet has a power switch so for most of the time I can just leave the router on and that becomes the switch. For bit changes they have an interlock so I will have to turn the router off to get in to the spindle lock position for bit changes but it seems pretty do able.
With the location established it was time to bring the job home. This is were a set of transfer punches come in handy. Using the hole in the sub-base as a guide I was able to mark the table insert hole locations.
- IMG_0734rsc.jpg (111.7 KiB) Viewed 3985 times
- IMG_0735sc.jpg (93.77 KiB) Viewed 3985 times
Ed
