Shopsmith Forums

I'm finally going completely through the bandsaw.

Upon inspecting the upper and lower blade guides, I find that the threads for the set screws on the right guide blocks on BOTH guide sets (upper and lower) have been stripped/removed. To be fair, one set of threads was already gone it seems, and when I went to REMOVE the upper guide right set screw, the threads came with it.

So, my question is this: How important are those guide blocks? Can I manage without them, should I leave them in and place a shim in there to keep them from wiggling/moving around, OR do I really need to buy both the upper and lower guide assemblies?

I've read multiple places (on here), about over-tightening the blade, and how it's 'necessary' sometimes. Being my first time using this, I REALLY want to make sure that this thing's going to explode by a little over-tightening really. Also, the blade that was on it seems like a 5/8. I see no marking on the gauge for a 5/8. Given the measurements, should I really tighten past the 1/2 mark?

I also just bought the back-up roller retro fit kit (http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... lerkit.htm). I am missing the auto-track roller set entirely. I have the bracket, but that's it. Will this set include everything for that as well? From the pictures, it doesn't quite look like it. From the exploded diagram, It looks like there's a few nuts/spacers I'll need on top of the kit. True or False?



I think that's it for now. I'm sure I'll have more to ask later on.

For the record, I'm looking at the Shopsmith Manual, as well as JPG's thread of infinite wisdom on bandsaw adjustments, tracking, etc. Feel free to reference either of those. Some of these topics may be touched upon there, but I like clarification sometimes. Thanks!

Consider the upper and lower blade guides to be critical!

If you can tap the holes to a larger thread, you might be able to salvage the brackets.

The rear and lower guide bearings are also critical.

The auto track bearing upgrade consists of bearings and mounting hardware, but not the bracket.

Please to not attempt to operate until the guides and backup bearings are fully functional.

When I got a 5/8" blade from SS, the instructions said to tension to the 1/2" mark.

Thank you both.

I didn't mean to imply that I was intending to run the bandsaw without any of the bearings. I have the upper and lower bearings, but I'm missing the auto-track bearing. Again, I have the bracket.

To try and clarify, when I look at the exploded diagram, I believe I see a few washers and nuts that go with the auto-track bearing. BUT, when I look at what's included in the kit, I believe it's lacking another washer and a nut for the auto-track bearing. Will I need to make any other purchases to complete the auto-track bearing set?

I'll definitely look into tapping and finding a larger set screw. That's not such a terrible hassle I suppose, and definitely cheaper than buying complete assemblies. I know the blade guides themselves and crucial, and all that they encompass, but would it be a bad idea to just hold the guide blocks (the angled metal blocks that slide toward and away from the blade) in place with some sort of a shim? Similar to the shims that help hold the blade guide assemblies in place. I can't imagine there being a lot of pressure on the blocks that simply jamming them up (even without the set screw) wouldn't keep them in place. Just a thought, though I'll probably go the route of tapping new threads.

That said, I do appreciate the warning to not operate withe bandsaw without the guides/bearings. Not at all what I was planning to do, but some people might.

Also, in regards to tightening the tension, I know I've seen numerous posts about it being ok/preferred to do so. Just would like to get some further opinions and verification on how I should get accustomed to tightening the blades. As I said, this is pretty much my first experience with a bandsaw.

if the threads are stripped out or have been removed you can try a Helicoil insert. When you buy a Helicoil they should come with a tap for the Helicoils. I have used Helicoils before in steel and cast iron, but not in aluminum. But it should work okay.

The nut and washer are common hardware items.

Ok, so I'll just need to get whatever washer(s) that position the bearing so that the blade is directly in the center, correct?

Thanks for the Helicoil tip. I've never heard of them before. Would you happen to know the measurements for the set screws? I can always take the set screw to Home Depot and use their wall mounted measuring board if I have to. Figured I'd ask. Also, any suggestions on where to get the Helicoils? I looked at Autozone and they have something simliar "Fix-A-Thread" I think, but it's $30.

Helicoils work ok in a blind hole. Harder to use them in thin material and a through hole. Has to be flush on the inside. Yeah about $30, when I went to the Honda parts department they wanted $140 for ONE. Autozone's price is much better!

Well this is a complete surprise. The part that I'm looking to fix the threads on, only costs $9.55. And it's the same tier the your and lower. Plus shipping, I'd imagine that's about $27 total. Seems the smarter choice, footer once, would be to just buy new. If I can't find a threading kit for 10-15 bucks locally, that's what I'll be doing. I had imagined the brand new ones were probably $20 each or something.

lilgodwin wrote:Well this is a complete surprise. The part that I'm looking to fix the threads on, only costs $9.55. And it's the same tier the your and lower. Plus shipping, I'd imagine that's about $27 total. Seems the smarter choice, footer once, would be to just buy new. If I can't find a threading kit for 10-15 bucks locally, that's what I'll be doing. I had imagined the brand new ones were probably $20 each or something.

Helicoils are expensive for a single use(special tap = $$$).

The original threads are 5/16 - 18.

IMHO new parts for that minimal cost is a no-brainer. Hopefully they are 'in stock'.