Shopsmith Forums

I did a bit of looking around first. I did find a thread or two regarding lathe chucks, which I think started me off in the right direction on what's out there.

I'm not one to spend retail price if I don't have to, and looking at some of the prices on the advertised chucks, I REALLY don't want to have to.

That said, I honestly don't know much of anything about turning, and especially the chuck(s) involved. I do want to be able to do some basic(?) turning, whatever that means, I guess. I know for pens I'll need a mandrel. But after looking around the forums, I'm VERY interested in trying to turn some bowls.

I've seen terms like wormscrew, chuck/arbor, jaws, etc, and I'll be honest in that I simply just don't know much about any of it.

So, can someone guide me a bit on what I might need? Not necessarily "Buy this product!", but maybe what will/won't work with the shopsmith to accomplish what I'm looking to do. Are there certain sizes of chucks that aren't compatible? What types should I be looking for? What might I want to avoid?

That said, I'll take recommendations for sure, but I do want to understand what I'm looking for. And, as mentioned before, the prices I'm seeing $100+(mostly $150-200) just seems a bit excessive, especially when I'm just starting out.


EDIT: I just saw something about faceplates. I think I understand the basic concept, but not entirely sure. Is this a good/preferred option? It looks like a cheaper route than the chucks I'm seeing. Though, I'm sure each serves its own purpose.

I think faceplates are a good method to start.

Then when(if) they become inadequate as your skills develop you can then pursue getting a $ chuck.

I am one who turns just enough that if I'm patient I can do whatever I need with a faceplate, screw chuck, spur center, or pen-turning mandrel. I did have a nice Nova 4-jaw chuck for a while but I sold it to pay for other goodies. With a little forethought and some fast-curing epoxy, it's amazing how much you can do with a faceplate. There is a general good practice to "preserve your mounting center", and a glued-down piece assists in that regard.

Others will be more enthusiastic for the 4-jaw chucks, I'm sure!

Chris

Hi Guys
I just have to stick my 2 cents worth in.
As I said in an earlier post I have both the Nova G3 and the Oneway Talon. If the Oneway is to be used only on the Shopsmith the SS can be reversed with no grubscrew. The oneway SS taper lock adapter is held to the chuck body with three screws in a triangular pattern and the set screw locks on the SS spindle with a set screw which will not come loose with reverse direction.
Additionally, The Nova chuck jaws require a dovetail to be cut on the mounting tenon or the groove to secure the chuck jaws. But on the Oneway the jaws have serrations on them which cut slightly into the mounting groove and hold really tight and eliminates the dovetail tenon.
Both of these chucks are very fine products but I prefer the Oneway. But only slightly
One quirk that I did not like at the beginning is that the Nova "T" handle wrench works backwards. When turning the wrench clockwise the jaws expand rather than close as would be expected. Kind of like driving a car with right hand steering. Not what you are used to but it can be learned.
Bill V
The above is a re post from another thread. I have and use both chucks but I have a slight bias to the Oneway.
Bill V

Bill, What are the model numbers for the Nova and Oneway chucks for our shopsmith machines?

Mike

I agree, you can do a lot of turning without a chuck.

As a new turner, I recommend you do some turning before spending on a chuck/

Also as a new turner, you will be well served by buying one from Shopsmith. This way you can be sure the chuck will fit on your Shopsmith as the necessary adapter will come with the chuck. The particular brand chuck they are selling at the time you buy will serve you well.

As always, thanks for the (quick) replies. As I said, I wasn't looking to spend, at least right now, what some of those mentioned chucks cost. I'm sure the Nova G3 and Oneway Talon are wonderful products, but it's just not something I want to invest in yet to that degree.

I suppose I'll do more research on faceplates and how to use them for various turnings. It seems like a decent first step, cost wise, and supposedly still offers some versatility.

If you don't have a Mark 7 headstock, you may want to consider a speed reducer if you are turning large bowls so you can turn them at slower RPM's.

I want a universal tool rest and one is on my buy next list.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... olrest.htm

... as well as a better collection of the Easy Wood Carbide tools than I have now. They are indeed worth the price, and occasionally you will find them on sale. They are amazingly good, and make a novice turner much more capable of producing great work safely.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... hisels.htm

Everett

When I started turning, which was in High School shop class we didn't have chucks, not even sure if anyone did back then.

Face plates, I agree it is a good way to start. Shopsmith has both a 3-1/2"(?) and a 6" so that is plenty to start with. Normally you use a block attached to the face plate with screws and then a glue joint between that and the work piece. I would check out the PTWFE chapter on lathe turning as a good place to start.

If and when you want to move to a chuck then you will have some experience and have a better idea of what you are looking for.

Chucks in general require a way to mount to a shopsmiths 5/8" shaft, this is not a common thing in the world of lathe's. This adapter will then allow the chuck to be mounted. This is a sticking point with me so bear with this, some people are selling a 5/8" plain bore adapter but they are not designed for a shopsmith. What makes this harder then it needs to be is that they will even say it is for a shopsmith. For it to be for a shopsmith it needs the set screw to be at a angle that matches the flat on the shopsmith spindle. I made the mistake of getting a 5/8" to 1-8tpi adapter and it would not stay tight..... long story short it had a very loose thread(metric) and the setscrew was vertical. I had to re-drill on opposite side using a imperial setscrew with the proper fit and at an angle. To be honest I still don't trust it and it has been replaced. So far everything I have gotten from PSI has been a disappointment, I now avoid anything they sell.

I personally have two chucks, both Nova and I went that way because they have pretty decent workmanship and are a respected company. One nice thing with their chucks is that for the most part the jaws (which are purchased separately) are interchangeable between chucks. The jaws allow various mounting methods so as you expand your craft these become desirable additions. Picking a chuck with a lot of jaw options is in my way of thinking a good idea.

Price wise you pretty much get what you pay for. I would avoid any of the cheaper chucks. You are talking anything with a selling price of say $100 is more then likely a waste of money. Again this is my opinion but I'm sticking with it.

This lathe hobby has gotten to be an expensive road to go down. Once you get a started you will find you want other chisels, then come a way to sharpen them, and oh by the way you will want a speed lower then 700 rpms which leads to a speed reducer or powerpro.......... The price of the chuck will be off set very quickly by the cost of all the extras. Woodworking is not a cheap hobby unless you have a lot of self control.

Ed

Not wishing to be contrary, but I recently purchased a Nova G3 chuck, with 3 accessory jaws from Woodcraft for $149. I purchased a 5/8 to 0 adapter for $30. The adapter works very well.

SS makes great equipment and materials at a good price but sometimes better deals are out there.

Larry