Shopsmith Forums

Being brand new to the Lathe (have not turned since High School shop class) I have abused that search bar for days and hours now. Just making sure I am on the right track.

1. Start with a faceplate b4 a chuck and use CA glue to attach it to a glue block for bowl turning
??- What CA glue and activator do you all use?
??- Do you order both or the larger of the 2 SS faceplate? I was not sure what size bowl i could turn with the smaller one
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... plates.htm

2. When upgrading to a Chuck don't use PSI adapter http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-L ... th+adapter
just order the Nova kit from SS as it comes with the adapter you will need.

3. Order a speed changer to increase the verity of speeds for better turning (still looking for one of those on EBAY or craigslist)

4. Sharping a tool the motorized grinder you get if its a high speed one like the one i am looking at http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tool ... 37823.html is fine as long as you put on a Norton White disk
http://www.rockler.com/norton-white-alu ... ing-wheels Also a Oneway is needed for helping out https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/93 ... pgrade-Kit
?? Does wheel size matter 6 or 8?

5. Live center is the way to go as long as its a MT2
I just bought this on yesterday http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KI ... d_ybh_a_12

6. Finally a plastic Center Finder is needed. I order one yesterday too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DR ... d_ybh_a_19

Does it sound like I am on the right track? Also any other must have to get a good start please let me know!

Thanks,
Brian Miller!

Try to find a local turning club. Most offer classes, and all will offer good advice.

http://www.woodturner.org/?page=Chapters

Mike

I have my reservations about using CA glue for waste blocks. To my mind it is too brittle and may break the bond if you get a catch.
Better to use Titebond II and let it cure fully at least 24 hours or 48 for a large turning.
When mounting the turning use the Titebond and a piece of brown paper between the workpiece and the waste block. The turning can be removed by splitting the seam between the waste block and the piece using a or a sharp thin tool to drive the pieces apart.
Good recommendation about finding a turning club nearby.
BIll V
P.S. Your live center is OK but you may want to get one like SS sells with the center ring that will help to keep smaller diameter turnings from splitting.
P.S.S.
With reference to a grinder, Woodcraft will occasionally sell the Rikon low speed grinder with 2 aluminum oxide grinding wheels for about $99.00. It also comes with a diamond dressing tool to clean the wheels. If you get a grinder with the gray wheels you will have to change them out for the white wheels which are much better suited for grinding the HSS tools.
The center finder is OK but be sure to draw several diameters because not much natural stock is really round. The several lines will cross over and leave a small space between them. The center of this space is the geometric center of the piece and should be your starting point. You can find center finders at HD or Lowes or HF for about the same price and save some postage.
I will continue rambling later
Bill V

I use a hot melt glue gun to attach the wooden block to the bowl blank. A few small globs near the edges and one or two in the middle does the trick. Squeeze together tightly and let set a couple minutes. Not had a piece separate prematurely yet. When you are finished turning, stick a steel blade putty knife or wide spackle blade between the two pieces to separate them. Use a hammer GENTLY, tap at the seam and twist the putty blade handle from time to time.
I've never tried CA glue.
When I did use conventional glue (Elmer's seemed to work), I would glue a piece of brown paper bag between both wood pieces. Read about that method somewhere so used it, but went to the hot melt gun many years back. I do remember letting the glue set up over night.
The hot melt is just how I do it. Other methods make work better for you.

Be well,
Ben

I've only used Titebond for waste blocks, but I was just re-watching a David Ellsworth video where he recommends CA glue, and also argues against using paper in the joint.

Mike

A speed changer is listed on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-10e-1 ... SwQYZWyoB~

Mike907 wrote:Try to find a local turning club. Most offer classes, and all will offer good advice.

http://www.woodturner.org/?page=Chapters

Mike

I found a group all ready! The guy through me right into the mix and had me turn a bowl with him! It was great. He has been turning for over 40 years! They meet every 3rd sunday to turn and every 3rd weds to have a meeting with a guest speaker and do a show and tell! Its 25.00 every six months!

wa2crk wrote:I have my reservations about using CA glue for waste blocks. To my mind it is too brittle and may break the bond if you get a catch.
Better to use Titebond II and let it cure fully at least 24 hours or 48 for a large turning.
When mounting the turning use the Titebond and a piece of brown paper between the workpiece and the waste block. The turning can be removed by splitting the seam between the waste block and the piece using a or a sharp thin tool to drive the pieces apart.
Good recommendation about finding a turning club nearby.
BIll V
P.S. Your live center is OK but you may want to get one like SS sells with the center ring that will help to keep smaller diameter turnings from splitting.
P.S.S.
With reference to a grinder, Woodcraft will occasionally sell the Rikon low speed grinder with 2 aluminum oxide grinding wheels for about $99.00. It also comes with a diamond dressing tool to clean the wheels. If you get a grinder with the gray wheels you will have to change them out for the white wheels which are much better suited for grinding the HSS tools.
The center finder is OK but be sure to draw several diameters because not much natural stock is really round. The several lines will cross over and leave a small space between them. The center of this space is the geometric center of the piece and should be your starting point. You can find center finders at HD or Lowes or HF for about the same price and save some postage.
I will continue rambling later
Bill V

Thanks for all the info! I was going to pick up a second live center just encase that one was to big! I will order that one next paycheck! As far at the center finder I looked at all those stores and no one had them in my area.... O well good thing I have Amazon Prime for shipping.

Please keep going I am all ears and soaking this all in!

Any advice on the size of the faceplate that SS offers?

rpd wrote:A speed changer is listed on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-10e-1 ... SwQYZWyoB~

Little above the price i wanted to spend but if I don't find one by next pay check I will have to splurge and get it!

benush26 wrote:I use a hot melt glue gun to attach the wooden block to the bowl blank.

How does this work do you just part it like anything else? I would be afraid the glue would be on the bottom of the piece and then gunk up my sander to get it off.