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The previous owner of my 520 allowed the blade to run a bit too close to the rip fence creating a problem that is more than just cosmetic. I thought about just repairing the rip fence with SS parts, but found it a bit expensive. The pics will give you an idea of my solution and now I think I like it better than an undamaged fence. The previous owner probably did me a favor.
1/4" UHMW, 1/4 X 20 X1/2 counter sunk bolts and SS sliders.
LDH

ldh wrote:The previous owner of my 520 allowed the blade to run a bit too close to the rip fence creating a problem that is more than just cosmetic. I thought about just repairing the rip fence with SS parts, but found it a bit expensive. The pics will give you an idea of my solution and now I think I like it better than an undamaged fence. The previous owner probably did me a favor.
1/4" UHMW, 1/4 X 20 X1/2 counter sunk bolts and SS sliders.
LDH

I am thinking the same design would work with 3/4 Birch plywood as a sacrificial fence, if I used 3/4" bolts.

Where did you purchase the UHMW?

Here's another option from Rockler.

Nasty gash. How deep is the gash? Is it simply the offset of the carbide tips that cut into the fence? It looks deeper is why I ask.

I think your fix will work fine. The only thing that I would miss is the t-track on the face of the fence. I use that a lot for finger boards.

Bruce,

I agree I just received a set of the Rockler Universal Fence Clamps. They work beautifully. Jim

I've had my 520 upgrade for some time now, yet it was only last night that I needed my sacrificial fence. I reached for it, put it on the table, and then realized it won't work with the 520 fence!

My sacrificial fence is mounted with two bolts and brass thumbscrews. There are two holes in the 510 fence. I honestly cannot remember if I drilled those holes or if there were originally in the 510 fence, but my gut tells me the holes were there from the factory.

The Rockler option won't work for me because my sacrificial fence is also high, giving stability for certain operations where I need a high fence. For example, last night I needed to put a 70 degree bevel on the edge of a board. The table won't tip 70 degrees, so I wanted to tip it 20 degrees and hold the board against the fence. For safety, and to get close enough to the blade, I need a tall sacrificial fence.

So, what are you guys using? Before I go drilling holes in my 520 fence, I'd like to know what you all do.

Paul

ldh wrote:The previous owner of my 520 allowed the blade to run a bit too close to the rip fence creating a problem that is more than just cosmetic. I thought about just repairing the rip fence with SS parts, but found it a bit expensive. The pics will give you an idea of my solution and now I think I like it better than an undamaged fence. The previous owner probably did me a favor.
1/4" UHMW, 1/4 X 20 X1/2 counter sunk bolts and SS sliders.
LDH

Now THAT is slick!:)

Bruce wrote:Here's another option from Rockler.

I too have this set BUT beware the t-slot on the back side of the fence is right where the foot of the screw sets. Not a super big deal but not as perfect as I'd like. Of course several work a rounds exist.

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If you are looking for UHMW plastic the best prices I found when getting some to make zci last year was here:
http://ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm

I have found I like the fence material at least 3/8 thick but that is just my personal opinion. That is also what I use for the zci's for my 520 but they have to be milled to fit.

Ed

paul heller wrote: So, what are you guys using? Before I go drilling holes in my 520 fence, I'd like to know what you all do.

Paul

I use the SS SLIDING T-NUTS to attach all the fence jigs and fixtures that I use on my 520s. The 520 fence has to be one of the best improvements that SS has made as far as I go. SS had them on sale recently so I bought an extra dozen.

ldh

paul heller wrote: The Rockler option won't work for me because my sacrificial fence is also high, giving stability for certain operations where I need a high fence. For example, last night I needed to put a 70 degree bevel on the edge of a board. The table won't tip 70 degrees, so I wanted to tip it 20 degrees and hold the board against the fence. For safety, and to get close enough to the blade, I need a tall sacrificial fence.

Paul

You can still use those clamps, just make a fence as in the picture and screw your tall fence to that...
I would probably make a few "T" slot shaped strips of some extra hard wood that would slide into the slot and make them thick enough to stand a little proud of the fence face so the clamp pad would not mar the fence.