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Drill Press Buffer

Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 3:45 pm
by jsburger
That is is what the email tip from Woodworkers Journal calls it. They use a piece of a paint roller and a 1 1/2" hole saw for the mandrel. They showed it in a drill press. Of course there is no reason not to use it in horizontal mode.

So I thought 1 1/2" drum sanding mandrel. I only had one paint roller and it had a plastic sleeve. I cut the roller on the band saw. It made three sleeves. It is a pretty tight fit. I will probably have to cut it off. Other rollers may fit a little better. Time will tell.

I haven't actually used it but I see no reason that it won't work.

Re: Drill Press Buffer

Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:18 pm
by reubenjames
Excellent. I've done similar in the past and it worked well for me. Since it is just a buffer, it probably shouldn't matter, but I would probably use my router chuck anyway, since it is made for the lateral pressure. Again, though, it is slight. In the past, before I had a router chuck, I used the drill press chuck and didn't seem to notice any ill effects.

Re: Drill Press Buffer

Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:26 pm
by everettdavis
Curious if you plan on using it as a buffer to finish or if you are intending some use with Tripoli and other polishing compounds.

I have heard some synthetics that might be in paint rollers could interact with various compounds and come apart.

Even at the slowest speeds, I don't think the paint rollers were designed with those RPM's involved, and they could come apart rather abruptly. A drill press usually can spin slower than a headstock (unless Power Pro).

I can't wait to hear how your results turn out though. I would think this would be one of those 'use with caution' items until they are proven up, and then only with quality rollers, not the Harbor Freight variety.

Everett

Re: Drill Press Buffer

Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:26 pm
by jsburger
reubenjames wrote:Excellent. I've done similar in the past and it worked well for me. Since it is just a buffer, it probably shouldn't matter, but I would probably use my router chuck anyway, since it is made for the lateral pressure. Again, though, it is slight. In the past, before I had a router chuck, I used the drill press chuck and didn't seem to notice any ill effects.
Good point although the shaft diameter will determine if the router chuck can be used. I really hadn't thought about it before but I will switch out the drill chuck. Thanks for reminding about a Duh moment that has been going on for a long time. :eek:

Re: Drill Press Buffer

Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:33 pm
by ERLover
I got the same tip from WWJ, as far as concerns, I would think/hope b4 they put out a tip they would do some testing on it. IMO.

Re: Drill Press Buffer

Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:51 pm
by jsburger
everettdavis wrote:Curious if you plan on using it as a buffer to finish or if you are intending some use with Tripoli and other polishing compounds.

I have heard some synthetics that might be in paint rollers could interact with various compounds and come apart.

Even at the slowest speeds, I don't think the paint rollers were designed with those RPM's involved, and they could come apart rather abruptly. A drill press usually can spin slower than a headstock (unless Power Pro).

I can't wait to hear how your results turn out though. I would think this would be one of those 'use with caution' items until they are proven up, and then only with quality rollers, not the Harbor Freight variety.

Everett
First I have no plans at this time to use it. However, I will try it when I refurbish my next 10ER. I just thought it was an interesting application.

I am not sure why they would come apart. The one I used has a plastic tube. Even if it was paper I don't see a problem. It is not going to blow up in you're face unless you run it at 10K+ RPM. I understand the need for safety but this is just being way over cautious. I certainly respect your opinion and if you don't want to do this I understand.

A SS is also a drill press (drill press speeds) so what is your point?

Re: Drill Press Buffer

Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:52 pm
by jsburger
ERLover wrote:I got the same tip from WWJ, as far as concerns, I would think/hope b4 they put out a tip they would do some testing on it. IMO.

Exactly. This is a non issue.

Re: Drill Press Buffer

Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 6:01 pm
by reible
This is interesting, it seems this very same idea was just on the Woodsmith video tips:

http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2016/03/17 ... aign=10723

They were using it to polish and with bee's wax and running at what ever the high speed is on the drill press then have.

I've got plenty of buffing wheels so I don't see me doing this but who knows.

Ed

Re: Drill Press Buffer

Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 6:25 pm
by jsburger
reible wrote:This is interesting, it seems this very same idea was just on the Woodsmith video tips:

http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2016/03/17 ... aign=10723

They were using it to polish and with bee's wax and running at what ever the high speed is on the drill press then have.

I've got plenty of buffing wheels so I don't see me doing this but who knows.

Ed
Oh my, sorry folks. It was Woodsmith tips. Argh, I hate it when that happens. :o

Re: Drill Press Buffer

Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 12:50 am
by everettdavis
Let me try and clear up what I was asking, by elaborating a bit further. I like the idea, if folks who know more than I, think it's safe.

The shop's JET JDP-20MF drill press has a speed range of 150-4,200 RPM

The Mark V is 700-5200 RPM which is why I mentioned the Power Pro which is 250 to 10,000. Even the Power Pro does not go as slow as my drill press lowest speed.

How many RPM do you suspect a hand paint roller is rated for as a hand tool? If I could get one going much more than 100RPM on a wall I almost bet I would be slinging paint from it, so engineering one to spin at high speed would not likely be something they would ever try to prove up.

I honestly don't know but I did visit with a fellow that said he thinks his attempt failed not because of the chemical composition of the compounds he was using, but more the heat from the friction building up and causing the adhesive to soften.

If some of you have used it in this manner, cool. I will try it too.

I have not yet seen the Woodsmith piece on it.

Everett