Shopsmith Forums

I'm trying to make an Alphorn, and the length of a single Shopsmith isn't long enough. I have two Shopsmiths and aligned them to allow me to round out the bore of one of the sections.
I'm looking for advice in aligning the two Shopsmiths uo and down and side to side so I can accomplish this task.
Thanks

I would like to see this set up, hear your thinking on set up and see the results. I have a project (making ball bats for the grandchildren)in which I am thinking of doing the same thing. So, please keep us posted.

Steve, the old Florida gator

Welcome to the forum!

Which model shopsmith are you trying to double up?

Mike

I have sketched an arrangement which I'd like to test out some day. The idea is to use 2 x 4's with short out-riggers and threaded rods to bring the machines together and to be able to adjust the off set angle by way of those same rods. The machines would be head to head so both carriages can be used.

I have since considered using the second headstock as the tail stock per a post here were that has been shown. One might be able to just disconnect the drive belt and use the second un-driven headstock free spinning.

It does leave a no-man-zone between the machines that might require a special lathe rest to bridge.

If I can find my now famously missing blue note book I could scan in the rustic sketches but to be honest it might be faster for me to just redo them if people are interested, just keep in mind this is only an idea and may or may not work how I think it would.

Ed

My Shopsmiths are Mark V models 500 and 510.
I positioned them so the tail stocks of each, were nearest each other.
The turning stock was 59 1/2" long and 3 1/2 x 3 1/3 wide.
I placed the tail stock of one machine into the other, and separated the two Shopsmiths the distance needed (about 8" apart). I then attached a tie-down to the accessory mount locks (because when I extend the quill to tighten the turning stock it puches the two Shopsmiths apart.
My dilemma, and my reason for posting this thread was trying to find how to align the head and tail stock to give me a clean finished product without one side of the wooden the being thicker than the other.
So...I used a 4ft. section of 2x8 that I glued another section of wood to, to extend past the Shopsmith's side with the tail stock.
I pressed the board into the headstock lathe center to make an indented point.
I then lowered the tail stock into the base mount to align the vertically.
Aligning side to side was more problematic; I sighted don the seam of the motor, along a line on the wood, to the tail stock.
I turned on the machine and rounded the stock at 750 rpms. The wood spun smoothly with no chatter.
After putting the routed wood halves together, I glued some end caps on to be able to put it on the lathe.
After I'd rounded it, I took the piece and cut one of the caps off to look at the walls. One side was just a little thicker than the other, but not enough to be alarmed about (since I don't know how to make a proper adjustment from here. This is a tapered wooden bore by the way.
Anyway; I went ahead and brought it to the diameter I wanted, sanded it and it's good to go now.

Couldn't you turn some rods to fit inside the tubes to align them and then use clamps of straps to lock them together?

My initial reaction to the 'centering' of the tail center is that it doesn't matter as long as the distance(s) from the way tube does not matter.

Assumes manual control of the tools.




How pray tell does one get past the bell to hollow the horn tapered 'tube' out? I have to assume the bell is added later.

I took some photos this morning to illustrate the process, but I don't see a place that allows me to upload them.
Regarding 'centering' of the tail center; it does indeed matter.
I've made over 1500 Native American Style flutes over the last decade and I can tell you it absolutely matters to have uniform thickness on the walls of the flute body.
Making this alphorn is essentially making a giant tapered flute.
Once I get to the bell portion, which I will have to attach afterward, I suspect I may have to freehand it. Dunno yet.

I have been playing with this idea for some time now. I can't seem to come up with a method that will maintain the alignment of the two units. Now that I have the second headstock being used as a tail stock the lengthening of the unit is necessary. I am hopefully hearing today on the cost of purchasing longer cold rolled steel tubes with either 1/4" or 3/8" wall thickness. I think this will be the only way to ensure alignment. The increased wall thickness will hopefully minimize the flexing. I may end up welding long gussets to the lower tubes if flexing still occurs. I am going to start with 8 foot tubes and see what happens.
Paul

Braak wrote:I took some photos this morning to illustrate the process, but I don't see a place that allows me to upload them.
Regarding 'centering' of the tail center; it does indeed matter.
I've made over 1500 Native American Style flutes over the last decade and I can tell you it absolutely matters to have uniform thickness on the walls of the flute body.
Making this alphorn is essentially making a giant tapered flute.
Once I get to the bell portion, which I will have to attach afterward, I suspect I may have to freehand it. Dunno yet.

I guess I do not 'see' how you are applying the cutting tool to the rotating workpiece. What I really am blind to is how the workpiece is mounted to make that tapered inner surface. I agree the same center used for the outer wall has to be used for the inner wall or the wall thickness will vary.



Look for 'Upload Attachment'.

Then look for "Browse"(it will appear below upload attachment).

Then browse(select a pix).

Then "Add the file".

Finally position the cursor where in the text you want it and then "Place inline".

Yeah a lot of busy work!