My method to the alignment process
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 5:53 pm
I realize there are officially published alignment procedures and they will vary some based on the alignment tools you have to work with to do the job.
Here’s my personal alignment process using a dial indicator and a sliding set of T-Bars, and a magnetic machinist square.
Start with some known bon-a-fide tests to insure you are working with parts that are not bent, warped or deformed in some way. Next we need to see if the slots or T-Slots are machined parallel to each other.
First things first….
Q: Is the table itself, flat?
A: Lay it down upside down on a known segment of MDF to see if it is warped. Use a feeler gauge if needed to insure its flat at the edges.
MODEL OPTIONS:
Q: Is it a 510 or 520?
If YES:
1) Roll the connecting tubes across the MDF to insure they all are straight and round. Check the Sliding T-Bars to insure they are flat as well.
2) Lay the extension and floating tables down on that same MDF beside the main table.
If they remain flat, go to the next step. If not, likely only a new table or extension table will resolve it unless it is under some tension of some sort that you can mediate.
3) Next insert the connecting tubes in their positions through all segments. It should slide in without bumps or restrictions. It should go in like butter….
IF it does not reflect proper alignment to the tubes and remain flat against the MDF, adjust them til they are right.
Install the Table in the Carriage.
Install one sliding T-Bar in the slot closest to the Quill, and mount the Dial indicator pointing toward the other slot, to the right of the table insert. Mount a steel post in the 2nd T-Bar and put it in the 2nd slot and measure the distance between the two. Gently slide the bars through the slots and make sure the spacing between remains constant. If it does, they are parallel. That’s also essential, and if there is a variance, Shopsmith may need to step up if it is beyond their standards.
If all is still good, proceed.
Slide the Headstock close to the Table, and position the Dial indicator pointing toward Quill shaft on a non-beveled section and measure the difference if any through the hand rotation of the shaft to insure it is not bent.
If we are still good, slide the table away from the headstock or vice-versa.
Take the 12” Steel Sanding Disk (with no abrasive or adhesive) and lay it flat on the MDF. Is it Flat across the surface. If yes go on, if not find one, or acquire one that is flat.
Mount the flat Sanding Disk on the quill.
It is flat, but is it at 90 degrees to the 5/8” shaft mount it is on? Need to measure that next.
Re-position the dial indicator to a point to measure to within ¼” of the edge closest to you of the 12” Sanding Disk. Gently rotate the Disk. If it is at 90 degrees as it is supposed to be, there will be very miniscule variance. I keep a known good Sanding Disk around that I use on all machines, but I always check it, on the machine.
1) Now slide the T-Bar through the T-Slot to the other side of the 12” Sanding Disk. If the Table is parallel through the entire range. If it isn’t the table is not square to the Quill and the table needs adjustment.
2) Here is where I vary somewhat on my procedure. I take a set of calipers and measure from the edge of the table to the side of the T-Slot closest to the Headstock. IF it is identical, then aligning the table to directly be flat against the Sanding Disk, will square the table. IF it isn’t there is a discussion you may want to have with Shopsmith. We will presume it is the same.
3) Using a Magnetic Machinist Square attached to the Sanding Disk will allow you level Table to the travel of the Quill, while keeping it square as Table remains against the Sanding Disk, tightening in place making sure nothing moves out of place.
4) Reset your 0 degree indication if needed, and the saw Table is aligned.
That’s my process. Obviously I need the center points of the drive center and the dead center, or live center to align perfectly for turning, but that is at the Tailstock as always.
Obviously, excessive run-out on the Quill can manifest and test using the same Dial Indicator to Sanding Disk measurement set by taking the Sanding Disk and exerting a slight finger pressure to see if there is movement in the bearings. I may check this on a machine new to me, but fairly infrequently afterwards. If I find a run-out problem, I get new bearings.
That’s how I do it. I did not put pictures in purposefully. I want you to envision how I do it, not be distracted by the photos.
I am sure everyone has their own way of doing things. That’s just mine. It works on 10E – Mark V pretty much the same way. Obviously the 12” Aluminum Sanding Disk isn’t going to hold the magnetic machinists square, but you get the idea.
I know there is a parallel discussion about centering the blade in the insert, and that stands on its own merit, but the other alignments must be correct.
I hope that helps someone formulate a method that works for them.
Everett
Here’s my personal alignment process using a dial indicator and a sliding set of T-Bars, and a magnetic machinist square.
Start with some known bon-a-fide tests to insure you are working with parts that are not bent, warped or deformed in some way. Next we need to see if the slots or T-Slots are machined parallel to each other.
First things first….
Q: Is the table itself, flat?
A: Lay it down upside down on a known segment of MDF to see if it is warped. Use a feeler gauge if needed to insure its flat at the edges.
MODEL OPTIONS:
Q: Is it a 510 or 520?
If YES:
1) Roll the connecting tubes across the MDF to insure they all are straight and round. Check the Sliding T-Bars to insure they are flat as well.
2) Lay the extension and floating tables down on that same MDF beside the main table.
If they remain flat, go to the next step. If not, likely only a new table or extension table will resolve it unless it is under some tension of some sort that you can mediate.
3) Next insert the connecting tubes in their positions through all segments. It should slide in without bumps or restrictions. It should go in like butter….
IF it does not reflect proper alignment to the tubes and remain flat against the MDF, adjust them til they are right.
Install the Table in the Carriage.
Install one sliding T-Bar in the slot closest to the Quill, and mount the Dial indicator pointing toward the other slot, to the right of the table insert. Mount a steel post in the 2nd T-Bar and put it in the 2nd slot and measure the distance between the two. Gently slide the bars through the slots and make sure the spacing between remains constant. If it does, they are parallel. That’s also essential, and if there is a variance, Shopsmith may need to step up if it is beyond their standards.
If all is still good, proceed.
Slide the Headstock close to the Table, and position the Dial indicator pointing toward Quill shaft on a non-beveled section and measure the difference if any through the hand rotation of the shaft to insure it is not bent.
If we are still good, slide the table away from the headstock or vice-versa.
Take the 12” Steel Sanding Disk (with no abrasive or adhesive) and lay it flat on the MDF. Is it Flat across the surface. If yes go on, if not find one, or acquire one that is flat.
Mount the flat Sanding Disk on the quill.
It is flat, but is it at 90 degrees to the 5/8” shaft mount it is on? Need to measure that next.
Re-position the dial indicator to a point to measure to within ¼” of the edge closest to you of the 12” Sanding Disk. Gently rotate the Disk. If it is at 90 degrees as it is supposed to be, there will be very miniscule variance. I keep a known good Sanding Disk around that I use on all machines, but I always check it, on the machine.
1) Now slide the T-Bar through the T-Slot to the other side of the 12” Sanding Disk. If the Table is parallel through the entire range. If it isn’t the table is not square to the Quill and the table needs adjustment.
2) Here is where I vary somewhat on my procedure. I take a set of calipers and measure from the edge of the table to the side of the T-Slot closest to the Headstock. IF it is identical, then aligning the table to directly be flat against the Sanding Disk, will square the table. IF it isn’t there is a discussion you may want to have with Shopsmith. We will presume it is the same.
3) Using a Magnetic Machinist Square attached to the Sanding Disk will allow you level Table to the travel of the Quill, while keeping it square as Table remains against the Sanding Disk, tightening in place making sure nothing moves out of place.
4) Reset your 0 degree indication if needed, and the saw Table is aligned.
That’s my process. Obviously I need the center points of the drive center and the dead center, or live center to align perfectly for turning, but that is at the Tailstock as always.
Obviously, excessive run-out on the Quill can manifest and test using the same Dial Indicator to Sanding Disk measurement set by taking the Sanding Disk and exerting a slight finger pressure to see if there is movement in the bearings. I may check this on a machine new to me, but fairly infrequently afterwards. If I find a run-out problem, I get new bearings.
That’s how I do it. I did not put pictures in purposefully. I want you to envision how I do it, not be distracted by the photos.
I am sure everyone has their own way of doing things. That’s just mine. It works on 10E – Mark V pretty much the same way. Obviously the 12” Aluminum Sanding Disk isn’t going to hold the magnetic machinists square, but you get the idea.
I know there is a parallel discussion about centering the blade in the insert, and that stands on its own merit, but the other alignments must be correct.
I hope that helps someone formulate a method that works for them.
Everett
