Shopsmith Forums

I noticed that the video for setting jointer knives has been removed from the Shopsmith website. Does anyone have a copy/link to that video...or...is there now a better way to set your knives level with the outfeed table.

Thanks alot!

Frank

I don't think it was 'removed'.

It became incompatible IIUC.

Well, okay. What methods are y'all using to set jointer knife blades on a Shopsmith jointer?

dafixer wrote:Well, okay. What methods are y'all using to set jointer knife blades on a Shopsmith jointer?

Do you not have manual/instructions?

Probably more than you expected. Read it all and make your own judgement/decision. http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maint ... 18126.html

Thanks. I read it all and will now re-read it and take down notes. I do have the manual but, wanted to get other opinions/ideas. Your link to the earlier post accomplished that.

dafixer wrote:Thanks. I read it all and will now re-read it and take down notes. I do have the manual but, wanted to get other opinions/ideas. Your link to the earlier post accomplished that.

The procedure in the manual works perfectly regardless of all the setting gauges out there and other opinions. In my opinion there is no reason to do it any other way. My results have been perfect. Besides, you don't need any other tool. Try the manual procedure and form your own opinion. After all the manual procedure has been around since day one and has never been changed.

I think that using the manual, step by step, is good advice.

I've been having some issues with my jointed boards being a bit tapered on the edge thickness by about 1/8" difference along a 36" 2x4; (1-3/8" thick on one end and 1-1/4" thick on the other end. I want them all to be 1-3/8" thick.) Fortunately, these boards are being used to make work table legs and that 1/8" thickness doesn't throw out the use of the board. But, it still means I've got some adjustments to make before I mill boards for more fine work.

I use my jointer on a power station with casters on it and every time I lower the casters, the power station legs hit the floor hard. So, I think I've jarred something out of alignment and need to check not only the knives but, the depth of cut adjustment, fence alignment bar and power coupling alignment.

dafixer wrote:I think that using the manual, step by step, is good advice.

I've been having some issues with my jointed boards being a bit tapered on the edge thickness by about 1/8" difference along a 36" 2x4; (1-3/8" thick on one end and 1-1/4" thick on the other end. I want them all to be 1-3/8" thick.) Fortunately, these boards are being used to make work table legs and that 1/8" thickness doesn't throw out the use of the board. But, it still means I've got some adjustments to make before I mill boards for more fine work.

I use my jointer on a power station with casters on it and every time I lower the casters, the power station legs hit the floor hard. So, I think I've jarred something out of alignment and need to check not only the knives but, the depth of cut adjustment, fence alignment bar and power coupling alignment.

A jointer cannot make a board a constant thickness.(at least not very likely)

That is a task for a thickness planer.

However technique will help/hinder that objective.

The workpiece needs to be examined carefully so as to determine the approach taken. It can be bowed(convex or concave) or 'shudder' twisted.

Improper pressure on the infeed/outfeed can also muddle things up.

Last but not least the table tops must be parallel.

Dropping off the casters is not likely to jar anything loose(unless already loose).

A resulting taper is not uncommon.

For setting jointer blades, I have a piece of 1/8'' plate glass, I put both tables at the same height, then put the plate glass on both with a set of Earth Magnets on top of the glass, it pulls the blade up to the glass, and then lock into place, then rotate to the next blade.

ERLover wrote:For setting jointer blades, I have a piece of 1/8'' plate glass, I put both tables at the same height, then put the plate glass on both with a set of Earth Magnets on top of the glass, it pulls the blade up to the glass, and then lock into place, then rotate to the next blade.

And when do you set the height screws? Good if there are none. The SS jointer has them.

I like the plate glass idea. Think the straight edge on edge is gooder!