Shopsmith Forums

I have added Carter guides, Magfence II and a Timber Wolf blade. What a difference. It cuts smooth and straight with no blade drift that I could see.

Previously I had added Bill's double bearing upgrade. That that was a noticeable improvement with the blades I had. Then cam cool blocks that helped but I need new guides any way. Next I bought a 1/2 inch Timber Wolf blade. Great improvement. Today I added the Carter guides and fence. Even more improvement.

The wood in the photo is some kind of spruce I thing. The wobbles are my fault. The happened when I paused for something. Where did I put my push stick.

My only complaint is that the guides are not easier to adjust. Every time I tightened the screws they would move.



If you blow it up you can just make out the saw marks.
Same wood different angle.
Carter Mag Fence II on my cast iron table.
Carter Mag Fence II Front View - I made the fence extension/protector from a cutting boar I bought at Sams. I made two of these one the same height as the fence and this one. I have enough cutting board left to make another pair.
Top Carter Guide - The bottom one looks just like it but turned the other way.

Which adjustment screws? The ones at the top of the triangle or the bearing guides?

If it's the two on the sides of the triangle, I was able to set them perpendicular by using my combination square on the table as a guide. It was also a great visual aid to where the blade world track. However this was only for the top ones. The bottom, no such luck. I just brought the top set down as far as I could and made the bottom set match

If it's the bearing guides, after I got them close I cut a dollar bill to make thin shims between the blade and the bearings, then I took a rubber band and twisted a few times over the set screws so they were squeezing the dollar bill and blade. It wasn't solid, but it was enough to keep both in a relative alignment. And then I tightened.

So, yes, I had the same problems.

So, just curious, did you know from the get go that you needed to loosen the set screws to turn one set 90 degrees so it worked in the bottom? At first I had no clue that the set screws that went to the shaft could be loosened so the assembly could be rotated 90 degrees. I was just about to contact Peachtree and or Carter to find out why they had sent me two of them same pieces! Glad I found MY error before I contacted them.

I did grind off part of the smaller allen wrench "L" so I could reach those adjustment set screws in the top.

You are so right, the difference was like night and day in the quality of the cuts.

Be well,
Ben

benush26 wrote:So, just curious, did you know from the get go that you needed to loosen the set screws to turn one set 90 degrees so it worked in the bottom? At first I had no clue that the set screws that went to the shaft could be loosened so the assembly could be rotated 90 degrees. I was just about to contact Peachtree and or Carter to find out why they had sent me two of them same pieces! Glad I found MY error before I contacted them.

Yes, I did pretty much the same. I had almost decided that they had sent me two upper guides before I noticed.

I really like your rubber band idea.

rlkeeney wrote:

benush26 wrote:So, just curious, did you know from the get go that you needed to loosen the set screws to turn one set 90 degrees so it worked in the bottom? At first I had no clue that the set screws that went to the shaft could be loosened so the assembly could be rotated 90 degrees. I was just about to contact Peachtree and or Carter to find out why they had sent me two of them same pieces! Glad I found MY error before I contacted them.

Yes, I did pretty much the same. I had almost decided that they had sent me two upper guides before I noticed.

I really like your rubber band idea.

I just pinch the bearings together between my thumb and index finger and tighten the cap screws. I also use very thin paper spacers. I like to have the bearings turning when the blade is running but not cutting but you can still stop the bearing from turning if you lightly touch the side with your finger.

jsburger wrote:I just pinch the bearings together between my thumb and index finger and tighten the cap screws. I also use very thin paper spacers. I like to have the bearings turning when the blade is running but not cutting but you can still stop the bearing from turning if you lightly touch the side with your finger.

That's pretty much what I wound up with although I did it the hard way. Attempting to follow the instructions on the package I kept tweaking until I could get a .0025 inch feeler gauge to go through the gap and th next larger one would not. When the saw runs the bearings spin and stop whe touched Two paths, same result.

While I was doing this I got the idea that what I really needed was a second bandsaw. I also bought the stabilizer and if it works for what I want to do I will be using them both a lot. It would be much easier to have two bandsaws with diffrent configurations. One for scroll work and one for resaw.

rlkeeney wrote:

jsburger wrote:I just pinch the bearings together between my thumb and index finger and tighten the cap screws. I also use very thin paper spacers. I like to have the bearings turning when the blade is running but not cutting but you can still stop the bearing from turning if you lightly touch the side with your finger.

That's pretty much what I wound up with although I did it the hard way. Attempting to follow the instructions on the package I kept tweaking until I could get a .0025 inch feeler gauge to go through the gap and th next larger one would not. When the saw runs the bearings spin and stop whe touched Two paths, same result.

While I was doing this I got the idea that what I really needed was a second bandsaw. I also bought the stabilizer and if it works for what I want to do I will be using them both a lot. It would be much easier to have two bandsaws with diffrent configurations. One for scroll work and one for resaw.

That is certainly the way to go. I have the SS band saw on a power stand. It has been that way since almost when I first bought it new in the middle 90's. Since then we have added a stand alone SS Teal scroll saw and then a few years ago a 14" Powermatic band saw with the 6" riser block. That gives 12" resaw capacity. It stays set up most of the time with a 3/4" Timberwolf resaw blade.