Shopsmith Forums

Long narrative below but here's the summary. I don't have an inspection port, I have to take it apart to fix something else, should I cut my own hole to give me better access in the future?

Hi, relatively newbie to the Shopsmith and the forum. I had been wanting a shopsmith for a while and bought what turns out to be a sand cast greenie, serial number 260835. I've used it for one small novice woodworking project and was on my second when the speed control started turning without changing the speed after adjusting down to 'A' to shut it down. Previously, I couldn't adjust it all the way up and had run through the oiling procedure twice. It does have the oil hole in the upper sheave. (sorry if that's the wrong name - I'm still getting up to speed on the parts terminology) The previous owner explained that he had done several maintenance items on it such as bearings and belts. I imagine he drilled this hole at that time. He also explained the oiling procedure but said 'not to worry' about that upper part because there was no way to access it.

Obviously, that's a problem, so I've been using a long oil tube through one of the 1/4" holes in the shopsmith nameplate since I don't have the inspection port. Since I have to take it apart anyway to figure out what's broken, I was thinking I may as well cut the port while I have everything out of the case. Is there a good reason for not doing it?

Thanks!

I have never had a Mark without an inspection port so I have no experience there.

What happens if you drop the motor pan and then go vertical. Does that give you access?

Yes dropping the motor/pan will give you access. Raising to vertical, inserting the table 'from what normally is the bottom) into the carriage provides a table for the motor/pan to set on while lubricating that sheave.

However I believe a simpler method is to remove the speed control and access the hole from that side.(If you got oil into the hole through a 1/4" hole, the speed control hole will be a walk in the park).

Also that vintage has an interlock that prevents accidental adjustment of the speed above 'saw-joint'.

There is a plate(with an embossed arrow that serves as a pointer) that must be depressed to allow setting to higher speeds.

So one setscrew and three screws and the 'access hole' is accessible. Yes the set screw can be pesky!!!

I have one and dropping the belt cover in vertical isn't hard.

You can even run the table in from the opposite side after you get it vertical and work from that perspective if you need.

Lubrication holes if missing can be added or new control and idler sheaves etc.

The fact that with newer machines Shopsmith dropped the extra mounting screws allows you to back off on installing as many. Just run in the extra screws and bottom them out against the headstock, then the belt cover will slide over them somewhat like a locating button.

Removing two screws and going vertical ever so often isn't a big deal, and if you have big hands, the inspection port may leave you with less working room than you would like anyway.

In that position you can easily pop off the belt to make sure it is near ½" wide and not worn, plus manually moving the floating sheave and control sheave through their ranges, after popping off the retaining clip.

As noted above, you can take out the speed control, so you can inspect the teeth on the dial and ring, as well as the worm gear and quadrant.

It's my preferred method of inspecting and lubricating on the later headstocks as well.

I have attached two photos from Dusty that I labeled and included in the Buying a Used Shopsmith Revisited document last year that illustrates the access I prefer. The number is the post number of the thread they came from.

If something needs attention, you are right there to do it, or inspect further, clean out the headstock cavity etc.

Everett

How do I add an oil hole to the floating shelves?

Hi greg313,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum.

To add the oil holes found in most Motor and Idler Sheaves you would have to remove the floating Sheaves from their respective shafts. Drill a small hole and carefully remove any burs left inside the bore from the drilling. I am not sure of the size of the hole since I have never actually measured it but would guess about a 3/32" at the largest. You can oil the floating sheaves of the Motor and Idler Shafts without having a hole by getting oil directly on the shaft between the sheaves when they are at their furthest separation. Slow speed for one and fast speed for the other. Using something like the Zoom Spout Oiler with a long reach will make that easier and lessen the chance of getting oil on the belt.

chapmanruss wrote: ↑Fri Aug 12, 2022 1:17 pm ...I am not sure of the size of the hole since I have never actually measured it but would guess about a 3/32" at the largest...

I had one handy, the hole measured 3/16". The center is about 5/32" from the aluminum portion of the sheave, and 180 degrees opposite the keyway. I don't think any of these dimensions are critical. Size and location appear to be identical whether a Floating or Control sheave.

- David

DLB wrote: ↑Fri Aug 12, 2022 3:59 pm

chapmanruss wrote: ↑Fri Aug 12, 2022 1:17 pm ...I am not sure of the size of the hole since I have never actually measured it but would guess about a 3/32" at the largest...

I had one handy, the hole measured 3/16". The center is about 5/32" from the aluminum portion of the sheave, and 180 degrees opposite the keyway. I don't think any of these dimensions are critical. Size and location appear to be identical whether a Floating or Control sheave.

- David

I agree. I believe that with the single exception of the button bearing the floating sheave and control sheave are identical.

Thanks for the correction, David. My guess was off by half the actual size.