Shopsmith Forums

http://oneway.ca/Safe%20Driver%20for%20 ... th%20Lathe

This has been mentioned recently. One important factor for me is if the set screw on the driver is straight or at the shopsmith angle. I have contacted oneway and the answer is that it is straight.

Now for some of you who don't care this will be fine. For me this is a sticking point. I've had some problems with a product that did not do the angled set screw and due to that I distrust companies who claim they are for a shopsmith yet ignore the tapered part of the shaft where they mount.

For the price I'd want this to be done "right". $42 is not cheap so I don't feel like buying it knowing that they didn't take the time to do it "right".

I would have loved to have one but now that is not going to happen. For me it is a mater of principal. It will more then likely work fine and if not I could do what I have done before and redo the set screw on the flip side but I don't fell like it especially at the price.

Ed

Are all of the set screws that mate with the Shopsmith spindle at an angle???

dusty wrote:Are all of the set screws that mate with the Shopsmith spindle at an angle???

I never measured one, but I have a good eye, and on hubs, drill chuck and sanding disc and I have about 7 of them, steel and Aluminum, I never notice them being slightly angled to match the angle on the flat spot on the shaft. The mark they have left on some shafts sure seem to be at a 90* to the flat spot.

dusty wrote:Are all of the set screws that mate with the Shopsmith spindle at an angle???

From previous discussions, the answer is no.

Some of this may be age/vintage related or shopsmith just not following its own design.

The PSI 1-8tpi adapter was my wake up call. This was a stock headstock and the set screw would loosen just running without even using it. The combination of a poorly fitting setscrew (metric) but close to the shopsmith size would loosen and it would go so far as to disengage the flat. One fix would have been to select a better fit on the threads........ The other factor was the fact the screw is not angled. I redid the adapter by adding a second set screw hole at an angle and using the correct (shopsmith) set screw. That fixed the issue of it coming loose but I still wasn't all that happy with it so I purchased another version made in the USA for about twice the price or more but it had the angled set screw. It works so much better that I never use the PSI one anymore. Best thing to do with it is trash it I guess but I haven't done so as it reminds me not to buy anything like it again.

For a while we saw issues when the Nova G3 was shipping with the wrong insert. Both Nova and shopsmith corrected this so it was important enough to them to do so. Why? You would have to ask them. For me doing the right thing is well doing the right thing.

Now with the powerpro and the pulsing it could make this even more critical. I don't know that for a fact but we have seen some evidence that might have been an issue with set screws inside the headstock. Let's say that is the case, then why take a chance by using something that doesn't have the angled set screw and on top of that pay so much for it. To me this is important and that is why I bring it up. Other people will have to decide for themselves, I just want them to know what is what with the part in discussion.

Ed

Ed, maybe a question on Monday for the MS.

dusty wrote:Are all of the set screws that mate with the Shopsmith spindle at an angle???

No. We had a long discussion about this a while back. Ed brought up the subject as I remember. He had a SS adapter for his Nova chuck with a straight set screw that he said kept coming loose. I questioned the angled set screw as I had never noticed. He correctly educated me. I believe he also got a correct replacement adapter from either Nova or SS. I started checking my set screws. Most were angled but some SPT drive hubs were not.

FWIW none of the 10ER spindle adapters I have are angled. The 10ER spindle flat is the same as the MK V. I am not totally convinced that it really makes a difference but Ed certainly does.

So when you clamp something do you do so at an angle, or perpendicular to the surfaces being clamped?

Same thing with the arbor screws. You want the force directed straight down the axis of the screw. Shape of the end of the set screw is not critical, but flat is best.

Skewed(not perpendicular) will result in unequal forces being applied to opposite sides of the screw. That is reflected in the direction of forces applied to the threads.

I am with Ed on this one.

However some arbors are tolerant.

JPG wrote:So when you clamp something do you do so at an angle, or perpendicular to the surfaces being clamped?

Same thing with the arbor screws. You want the force directed straight down the axis of the screw. Shape of the end of the set screw is not critical, but flat is best.

Skewed(not perpendicular) will result in unequal forces being applied to opposite sides of the screw. That is reflected in the direction of forces applied to the threads.

I am with Ed on this one.

However some arbors are tolerant.

I totally agree. However some MK V arbors have round nose set screws, some have flat and some have brass and some are not angled. The machine has been around for over 60 years with apparently no reported problems due to the lack of an angled set screw.

The first time I tried to remove the blades from my pro planer the Eskid (sp) T handle (6") hex wrench would not even come close to breaking them loose. I had to use a bit in a ratchet and they came loose like they were not stuck. The rotational torque was not enough. Snug is not tight enough for any arbor.

I am with Ed also for the ultimate way to do it. However, since SS has not done angled set screws for over half it's history, I am not sure it is that important, theory aside.

There is theory and then there is practical experience. My guess is that practical experience wins over theory in some cases.

I will back out of this if talking a PP, since I my experience is ERs and Vs. I have no idea about PP other then on any set screw that would/could work loose, I would add a dab of Blue Lock Tite product.

'Practical' prevails over theory when 'good enough' becomes the intention.

Most set screws are not intended to be loosened often/repetitively like the SS arbor screws.