Miter Gauge, Miter Bar Lock Screw

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 5:04 pm

Until recently, when Jim McCann locked the miter gauge (miter bar) in place on the Belt Sander, I hardly ever adjusted that locking screw. I knew it was there and I knew what it was for. I just hardly ever used it.

Last week, I found a need to lock the miter gauge in place on my new tilting outfeed table. It worked great. It was a bit difficult to turn the setscrew but it locked the bar like expected.

Boy did it lock. When I went to remove the miter gauge, I couldn't turn the set screw. I turned still harder and suddenly I heard a sort of loud snapping sound, the screw moved a little bit.

Got a different allen wrench, more leverage you know. Still couldn't turn the set screw. Then suddenly, I stripped out the set screw.

Tried to drill it out. No luck. Setscrew is really hard steel. Ended up cutting the setscrew with a sabre saw and special blade. Now I have a miter bar with no locking screw.

Checked the threads with a setscrew from a second miter gauge. Everything is okay. Just need to buy new setscrews. Incidently, I don't think the spare parts kit includes one of these.

Feed back Please:

What ever made that setscrew set so firmly in the miter bar?

Will this happen whenever a setscrew goes unmoved for an extended period of time?

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 6:55 pm

The problem you describe, Dusty, is caused primarily by overtightening, although there may be some other factors as well. There are several things you can do to prevent it in the future:
1. Tighten the Allen screw until you feel it's tight. It's not hard to discern -- the Allen wrench stops turning easily as soon as the sides of the miter gauge bar begin to press against the sides of the slot. Also, the Allen screw will begin to squeak like a rusty door hinge. Do not tighten it more than 1/16 turn past this point.
2. Get your magnifiers out an inspect the threads in the miter gauge bar. Often, there are burrs left over from the thread cutting process. Carefully remove these with a needle file.
3. Put a little paste wax on the threads of the Allen screw to keep it from sticking.

With all good wishes,

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 7:21 pm

dusty wrote:
Feed back Please:

What ever made that setscrew set so firmly in the miter bar?

Will this happen whenever a setscrew goes unmoved for an extended period of time?

This happened to me a while back, just about as you described, only I got mine out by first spreading the bar opening with a punch and screwdriver, then using a brand new allen wrench. I figured this was caused by corrosion (gunk) and a worn wrench. I posted that experience, but now can't find it.

Ordered a new taper screw and since, it has worked real good. Put a drop of oil on the new taper screw and it is still performing well, after several tightening sessions. Just today, I used the miter gauge and stop block as a jig upon which to place my louver hole drilling jig. The screw performed well.

Actually, I have used my taper screw several times per year. Prior to the seize up I had noticed it getting a little stubborn to move, but didn't pay it ample attention (poor little thing!). It showed me!:p Now, if ever the new taper screw squeals just a little, I'll baby it with another drop of oil.

BTW, that screw also tightens the miter gauge in the sot of the belt sander table - giving a wonderful base for right angle sanding.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 7:52 pm

Part #501401, Taper Screw

charlese, in the preceding post) refers to this set screw as "poor little thing". He wasn't talking about cost. This poor little thing costs $3.18. Now I know why it isn't in the parts kit.

Sorry Nick, wax didn't do! I almost seized the other one. A visual inspection doesn't show anything significant. I flushed it (both) with mineral spirits.

Will try again tomorrow. SWMBO is saying something forcefully about eating.

Does anyone know for sure what size it is? I was thinking able running a tap into the threads (by finger touch) to smooth any rough threads there might be. I think it's 1/4-27.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:32 pm

Well - $3.18 is not quite a new car, but I guess you can call that expensive if you want. I don't think a home die or (tap for the bar) will work very well. The screw (poor little thing) is tapered!!!!

As I said, a drop of oil worked very well!

Try it! If it doesn't work, you can clean it out with mineral spirits (or WD-40)

If it continues to be sticky, spread the bar before removing the screw. That way you won't have to saw it out.

shydragon · Post by **shydragon** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:41 pm

Yeah, but what did shipping cost on that poor little thing?

I just purchased the help kit. it lists (2) tapered, 5/16-inches-18 Miter Gauge Bar setscrews.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:51 pm

charlese wrote:
The screw (poor little thing) is tapered!!!!

Charlese, I agree the set screw is tapered but I believe the threaded hole in the miter bar is not.

And yes I do believe $3.18 for a 1/4" set screw is expensive. We'll see.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:18 pm

O.K. But a couple drops of oil are a lot less expensive!