Shopsmith Forums

I want to clean up the rust on all the inside diameters of ER parts that go on the Way tubes. It is just some surface rust on the cast iron.
Looking for suggestions on which one and what grit, and do I use it dry, if not, with what? With further reading I bet honing oil! What could I substitute for that?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cylinder-hones/=13vv1xb

Not sure which one. Honing oil http://www.mcmaster.com/#honing-oil/=13vv8ja

Skizzity wrote:Not sure which one. Honing oil http://www.mcmaster.com/#honing-oil/=13vv8ja

Thanks, I did not think they would sell small quantities like a pint, so I did not even check them out for it.

I have used a small brake cylinder hone for "clean-up" of a lot of parts on all kinds of stuff for many years. I just use something like WD-40, works fine. I just use what they refer to as "medium" grit stones. Works for me, just go easy to avoid going over-size.


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robinson46176 wrote:I have used a small brake cylinder hone for "clean-up" of a lot of parts on all kinds of stuff for many years. I just use something like WD-40, works fine. I just use what they refer to as "medium" grit stones. Works for me, just go easy to avoid going over-size.
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I was thinking the 180 grit, for aluminum and soft metals, I figure cast iron is a soft metal, and may use some ATF cut to 50% with Acetone,

I use a dowel with a slot cut in the end and sandpaper folded over twice. Works like a charm. WD40 for the lube and they clean up in 5 min. Don't waste money on a hone, you really don't need it. Besides, hones could, if not careful, take too much material (though unlikely).

JMHO

rjent wrote:I use a dowel with a slot cut in the end and sandpaper folded over twice. Works like a charm. WD40 for the lube and they clean up in 5 min. Don't waste money on a hone, you really don't need it. Besides, hones could, if not careful, take too much material (though unlikely).

JMHO

Thanks, kinda like a flap sander on a drill?

ERLover wrote:

rjent wrote:I use a dowel with a slot cut in the end and sandpaper folded over twice. Works like a charm. WD40 for the lube and they clean up in 5 min. Don't waste money on a hone, you really don't need it. Besides, hones could, if not careful, take too much material (though unlikely).

JMHO

Thanks, kinda like a flap sander on a drill?

Exactly. You are not looking for precision, just rust cleanup.

rjent wrote:

ERLover wrote:

rjent wrote:I use a dowel with a slot cut in the end and sandpaper folded over twice. Works like a charm. WD40 for the lube and they clean up in 5 min. Don't waste money on a hone, you really don't need it. Besides, hones could, if not careful, take too much material (though unlikely).

JMHO

Thanks, kinda like a flap sander on a drill?

Exactly. You are not looking for precision, just rust cleanup.

Thank for the $ savings, I will get a close to fit dowel, run a split on one end on the Band Saw, and put in a flap of wet and dry aluminum oxide wet.

I wouldn't run a cylinder hone through the way tube bores on the headstock. If the rust isn't bad, once removed, you should be able to see the machine grooves from when it was first machined. Accuracy may be compromised if too much material is removed.

0000 steel wool with Mother's mag and aluminum polish works nice. Just takes a little longer.

Mike