Shopsmith Forums

Very informative and simple way to mix dry Shellac.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/v ... ng-eletter

Thanks, ERL, that was most timely.

I'm getting ready to finish that quarter-sawn sycamore T&G ceiling for my secret-room project. It's so danged hot and humid outside that I'm going to have to seal and finish it in the secret room itself, which is only 8' x 10'. I decided to seal the T&G on all sides with shellac (before nailing it up), because it is nice pleasant non-toxic stuff, and the ventilation won't be the best.

I test-finished a scrap of the QS sycamore with some Zinsser rattle-can shellac for sealer, and then a coat or three of wipe-on poly. Turned out fabulous. Now I'm trying to figure out the best way to scale up for "production". Tentative plan is to spray a 2-lb cut of shellac with a cheap (but well-reviewed) HF HVLP gun on all sides of the T&G, then nail it up. Finish-coats of thinned poly to be sprayed after installation, while wearing a respirator.

A large shop vac is planned to be exhausting fumes from the room, for both types of finish. If anyone has reason to believe that exhausting shellac/alcohol fumes through a shop vac is an explosion hazard, speak up now, lest I forever rest in peace!

So anyway, I have to decide whether to buy the Zinsser canned shellac for sealing, or mix up flakes and alcohol. From the video, it sound like the flakes have a fast-dry advantage. Which is a pretty big deal, as I only have space to shoot sealer on one side of one fourth of the ceiling T&G at a time. I suspect that dewaxed flakes & alcohol are less expensive as well, but still gotta check that out.

Hmmm. Looks like using my Ridgid vac as an exhaust fan/duct might not be such a good idea ...

BuckeyeDennis wrote:Thanks, ERL, that was most timely.

I'm getting ready to finish that quarter-sawn sycamore T&G ceiling for my secret-room project. It's so danged hot and humid outside that I'm going to have to seal and finish it in the secret room itself, which is only 8' x 10'. I decided to seal the T&G on all sides with shellac (before nailing it up), because it is nice pleasant non-toxic stuff, and the ventilation won't be the best.

I test-finished a scrap of the QS sycamore with some Zinsser rattle-can shellac for sealer, and then a coat or three of wipe-on poly. Turned out fabulous. Now I'm trying to figure out the best way to scale up for "production". Tentative plan is to spray a 2-lb cut of shellac with a cheap (but well-reviewed) HF HVLP gun on all sides of the T&G, then nail it up. Finish-coats of thinned poly to be sprayed after installation, while wearing a respirator.

A large shop vac is planned to be exhausting fumes from the room, for both types of finish. If anyone has reason to believe that exhausting shellac/alcohol fumes through a shop vac is an explosion hazard, speak up now, lest I forever rest in peace!

So anyway, I have to decide whether to buy the Zinsser canned shellac for sealing, or mix up flakes and alcohol. From the video, it sound like the flakes have a fast-dry advantage. Which is a pretty big deal, as I only have space to shoot sealer on one side of one fourth of the ceiling T&G at a time. I suspect that dewaxed flakes & alcohol are less expensive as well, but still gotta check that out.

Any unsealed motor can cause an explosion IF the air to volital ratio is in its explosive range.
I have flakes but have not mixed them up yet, I have been buying the Zinsser Seal Coat in quarts for the last 3-4 years, it is dewaxed and a 2lb cut.
I bought the Rockler HVLP in May, which seems to be the same as HF, but a bit different nozzles sizes, it is still in the box, I just have not had a project to use it on yet and a bit gun shy/ingnorent on it. I got Jeff Hewitts book and video on spraying. Good info, just have not pulled the trigger on it yet.

BD, I cant compare dry time from Zinsser to flakes, but if he said it is faster, he is the expert, I find the first coat of Zin to dry in about an hour, 2nd in about 2 depending on temp and wood grain, the more open pored the faster.
The last few days I made up a bench for an Er, Cedar legs, pine rails, Doug Fir top, first 2 coats were Seal Coat done in 3 hours, first coat dried with in an hour, second in 2. Now oil Poly.

Nice video. Brings back memories of my youth and my father. He was a total believer in shellac finishes. My brother and I were the official finishers starting at about 11-12 years old. We probably put 8-10 coats on everything. I can still hear him saying "I think one more coat". I switched over to Watco many years ago due to a better resistance to water spotting especially for furniture that will potentially have wet things set on them like a table etc. What I really miss though is the speed at which you can produce a finish with shellac as opposed to other finishes.
Paul

ERLover wrote:...
I bought the Rockler HVLP in May, which seems to be the same as HF, but a bit different nozzles sizes, it is still in the box, I just have not had a project to use it on yet and a bit gun shy/ingnorent on it. I got Jeff Hewitts book and video on spraying. Good info, just have not pulled the trigger on it yet.

I also bought the Rockler HVLP spray kit. Used it only with water based outdoor paint. Paint must be thinned down a bit to cover nicely, but am very happy with the unit. The kit is nothing more than a small vacuum type set up that uses the outflow rather than the suction. The suction is through the vents in the side of the unit.

You will probably need a couple more screw on bottles. I did! That way you can clean out one used bottle while using another. These bottles also work well for storage of un-used diluted paint.

http://www.rockler.com/hvlp-spray-system

Charlese I dont plan on using for paint, Shellac, dye and maybe Poly once I get comfortable with my skills with it. I am glad to here you are happy with it.

beeg wrote:Here's where I buy mine.

http://www.shellacshack.com/?gclid=CLD7 ... KgodKEOs_w

Me too