Today in the shop (table alignment with master plate)
Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 1:02 pm
I've been using this for a couple of years now and while I am not totally sure how well it will work for everyone I'm going to put it out here so you can comment and if you have a master plate give it a try and see how it works for you.
First let me say that I've been at better then .005" using this method. Now this is dependent on a lot of factors so that is why I want to make it clear that you can do this and get better then accepted tolerances. I've been using a dial indicator to check alignment after doing this and for the most part I'm all but total convinced that I can stop doing it but.........
Step one is to mount a master plate on the main shaft using a 5/8" universal arbor. The master plate is too thick to use a saw arbor I believe while it has been a couple of years since I tried it but I think that was the case.
As a simple mater of doing what you normal do make sure the head stock is lock on the tubes and the quill is locked tight.
You can then mount the table and set to table saw position and loosen the necessary screws to allow it to move(before or after you mount it). I like to snug them up finger tight so the table is not squirrelly but can still move. Do this how ever you feel comfortable with.
The following photos are a simulation but should give you an idea of how this works.
Located table with the left miter slot set so the master plate will slide in the miter slot. It will something like this:
You then can raise the table as shown here:
The table and carriage can then be moved to the right so the master plate is contacting the left edge of the left miter slot. At this point you will have to decide if you are happy with that location or have to work out how to center the blade in the table like Dusty likes. I personally have not addressed this but might in the future.
As you can see on this adjusted table the plate and slot are tight to each other. If the table is loose it will not likely be so.
I use clamps from the table to the master plate to force the ends to the miter slot like shown here:
At this point you have to very carefully tighten the mounting screws as it is still possible to twist things. What ever method you have had success with in the past will work.
When you take off the clamps you can use a feeler gauge to check keeping in mind the plate tolerance and slot tolerance could show up as a few thousands.
At this point you can go to table saw mode with the master plate in the saw slot and using a dial indicator check the slot to plate numbers. I find the shopsmith dial indicator miter bar to be far too loose to get good results even in the best of times........ but you can be the judge of that for yourself. I wedge it to the left at both ends of the master plate for measurements but one day I want to replace the bar with a better system.
If I forgot anything or wasn't clear on how this works please ask. If you have a master plate please give it a try and report back.
BTW my master plate is an older model, the newer ones are blue I believe and I have no idea if any other changes have been made. I found mine to be pretty precise when compared to other flat surfaces I have.
Ed
First let me say that I've been at better then .005" using this method. Now this is dependent on a lot of factors so that is why I want to make it clear that you can do this and get better then accepted tolerances. I've been using a dial indicator to check alignment after doing this and for the most part I'm all but total convinced that I can stop doing it but.........
Step one is to mount a master plate on the main shaft using a 5/8" universal arbor. The master plate is too thick to use a saw arbor I believe while it has been a couple of years since I tried it but I think that was the case.
As a simple mater of doing what you normal do make sure the head stock is lock on the tubes and the quill is locked tight.
You can then mount the table and set to table saw position and loosen the necessary screws to allow it to move(before or after you mount it). I like to snug them up finger tight so the table is not squirrelly but can still move. Do this how ever you feel comfortable with.
The following photos are a simulation but should give you an idea of how this works.
Located table with the left miter slot set so the master plate will slide in the miter slot. It will something like this:
- IMG_2651sc.jpg (478.44 KiB) Viewed 4618 times
- IMG_2652sc.jpg (493.59 KiB) Viewed 4618 times
As you can see on this adjusted table the plate and slot are tight to each other. If the table is loose it will not likely be so.
- IMG_2654sc.jpg (451.28 KiB) Viewed 4618 times
- IMG_2655sc.jpg (469.41 KiB) Viewed 4618 times
When you take off the clamps you can use a feeler gauge to check keeping in mind the plate tolerance and slot tolerance could show up as a few thousands.
At this point you can go to table saw mode with the master plate in the saw slot and using a dial indicator check the slot to plate numbers. I find the shopsmith dial indicator miter bar to be far too loose to get good results even in the best of times........ but you can be the judge of that for yourself. I wedge it to the left at both ends of the master plate for measurements but one day I want to replace the bar with a better system.
If I forgot anything or wasn't clear on how this works please ask. If you have a master plate please give it a try and report back.
BTW my master plate is an older model, the newer ones are blue I believe and I have no idea if any other changes have been made. I found mine to be pretty precise when compared to other flat surfaces I have.
Ed
