Shopsmith Forums

Which is really not a push stick. It is more like a push block. It is made most frequently from framing materials (2x4 or 2x6). I like it because it is disposable for like when ripping narrow work pieces. I don't concern myself with whether or not the push block is within the cut line. It is important, however to not have a lot of blade exposed above the work piece.

I like it because I can "get a grip" on the push block. Really, I like it because it costs me little to nothing. When the work surface gets cut up too much, I just trash it and get another.

Kick backs occur most frequently as a result of loosing control of the work piece. This push block gives the user a bit more control than would a "push stick.

I have always used the one that Sopsmith sells, works for me.

I like Dusty's better.

But then I usually just use what ever is within arm's reach.

I have and use a Shopsmith push stick but I often do not feel comfortable with it. I used to but I had a couple occasions when the work piece did not go exactly where I wanted. This push block, I feel, gives me better control and because it is longer it allows me to hold the work piece down on the table better. I also like it, as I said, because on a cut that is close to the fence I can sacrifice the push block; let it travel through the cut.

Per JPG
I like Dusty's better.
Suck up!!!! "Mom liked me best" Smother Brothers.

I have a few different ones, the old SS Standard. one like Dustys but is hollow on the inside and straddles the fence handle on top and the walls are just a 1/4" thick Baltic Birch, and the other one is a looped handle flat bottom with the raised edge, 1/2 BB and about 12" of flat surface to hold down pressure from the looped handle. All are near the TS and at ready stand by.

I use push sticks whenever needed, which is much of the time. I find that the OEM push sticks like SS and others work best to keep dainty fingers out of the danger zone. Other than that they can sometimes act more as a fulcrum or a pivot point when the stock is lifted by the saw blade teeth on the outfeed side of the blade. The rising teeth lift the stock until the teeth at the top of the blade(which are moving toward the operator) catch the stock and propel it back toward the operator. The longer push stick has more of an ability to keep the outfeed end of the stock down on the table and minimizing a kickback. I have always insisted that the upper saw guide always be used on the saw in our community shop. One of the best features of an upper saw guard is the anti kickback pawls which dig into the stock if it moves toward the operator. If all of the safety equipment was used by saw operators the Saw Stop may never have had a need to be invented. But now I am dreaming!!!!
Bill V

Dusty, I could have used that push stick earlier today. I had to dimension some wood to 1/2 thIck, ended up sacrificing some of my Gripper. That could have been an expensive task. Luckilly the Gripper is still intact, though scarred!

I saw this one on the jay Bates website and liked it so much I built one - it has become my favorite, and cheap to (re) make.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9oyt2gj0ek

Dusty's push block is in the new edition (228) of Woodsmith magazine, in an article on ripping thin strips. The only difference is the addition of some self stick sandpaper to improve the grip.

Mike

Not that I own stock or got one for free; My first pick is a GRR-Ripper. Not cheap but they work really well for me.