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I have the Shopsmith Dust collector, and was wondering, has anyone set a whole shop collection system using either pvc or ductwork and leaving the DC-3300 in one location?

dwberry wrote:I have the Shopsmith Dust collector, and was wondering, has anyone set a whole shop collection system using either pvc or ductwork and leaving the DC-3300 in one location?

They did so in Dayton.

I am in the process of rebuilding a DC-3300 and will be using it in my quite small shop - just as a roll around. As part of that rebuilding, I have been looking at the 'state' of dust collecting as it exists today.

First I would note that there is a older but quite comprehensive video from Shopsmith on the exact topic you are asked about:
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... ection.htm

Oneida has some good info on systems:
http://www.oneida-air.com/static.asp?ht ... ial01.html

Some of the fine points I got from my reading (all of this are only my opinion:
1. The DC-3300 is marginal - 330 CFM is just barely adequate. Better than what I have now (ShopVac+Dust Deputy cyclone) but little extra capacity to handle, for example, a dust preselector.
2. You should use all metal tubing for static reasons.

Many would say the DC3300 is not at all adequate. At least one authority on dust collection recommends a minimum capacity of 1100 cfm.

The other components of your dust collection system have a huge impact on how well it works. Ducting should be 4" diameter wherever possible. Ducting should be smooth wall (not corrugated) where possible. I disagree with the need for metal ducting, but if you use plastic, you should run a ground wire along the ducts, and be sure it is attached to every piece of the ducting and to an earth ground.

Blast gates should be used to close off runs of the ducting that are not in use.

Having said all that, when I looked at how much a really effective dust collector/filter system would cost, I went a different route. In my small (24x24) two car garage-cum-workshop, I use an inexpensive Grizzly two bag system with a 5 micron upper filter bag, and a 3M full-face shield/respirator. The Grizzly connects to only one tool at a time with a flexible hose. The two together cost less than half of what companies like Laguna, et. al., are charging for even their least expensive 1 micron cyclone systems.

videobear wrote:Many would say the DC3300 is not at all adequate. At least one authority on dust collection recommends a minimum capacity of 1100 cfm.

The other components of your dust collection system have a huge impact on how well it works. Ducting should be 4" diameter wherever possible. Ducting should be smooth wall (not corrugated) where possible. I disagree with the need for metal ducting, but if you use plastic, you should run a ground wire along the ducts, and be sure it is attached to every piece of the ducting and to an earth ground.

Blast gates should be used to close off runs of the ducting that are not in use.

Having said all that, when I looked at how much a really effective dust collector/filter system would cost, I went a different route. In my small (24x24) two car garage-cum-workshop, I use an inexpensive Grizzly two bag system with a 5 micron upper filter bag, and a 3M full-face shield/respirator. The Grizzly connects to only one tool at a time with a flexible hose. The two together cost less than half of what companies like Laguna, et. al., are charging for even their least expensive 1 micron cyclone systems.

Please explain how this does anything. Plastic is an insulator. You can't ground plastic. I don't know who started this myth but it has been around for a long long time.

jsburger wrote:

videobear wrote:Many would say the DC3300 is not at all adequate. At least one authority on dust collection recommends a minimum capacity of 1100 cfm.

The other components of your dust collection system have a huge impact on how well it works. Ducting should be 4" diameter wherever possible. Ducting should be smooth wall (not corrugated) where possible. I disagree with the need for metal ducting, but if you use plastic, you should run a ground wire along the ducts, and be sure it is attached to every piece of the ducting and to an earth ground.

Blast gates should be used to close off runs of the ducting that are not in use.

Having said all that, when I looked at how much a really effective dust collector/filter system would cost, I went a different route. In my small (24x24) two car garage-cum-workshop, I use an inexpensive Grizzly two bag system with a 5 micron upper filter bag, and a 3M full-face shield/respirator. The Grizzly connects to only one tool at a time with a flexible hose. The two together cost less than half of what companies like Laguna, et. al., are charging for even their least expensive 1 micron cyclone systems.

Please explain how this does anything. Plastic is an insulator. You can't ground plastic. I don't know who started this myth but it has been around for a long long time.

It is NOT a myth, John. Please don't tell me that you have used a large dust collection system that utilizes PVC ducting and never drawn a static arch off the tubing. In fact, I occasionally draw a static arch just working with the simple dusting system that I have with the DC3300.

You worked on and around air frames so I know you know the importance of using static lines.

Regarding static control and plastic pipe, Bill Penze has a nice summary on one of his web pages:
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclon ... troduction

down in paragraph F. Basically, using his own work and real live work by others, he indicates that using wire to 'ground' PVC piping is not really effective. He does give a solution passed on to him (using aluminum tape) that does work well.

Some may disagree with Mr. Penze on particulars but there is a ton of interesting stuff on his web site.

Bob Groh

dusty wrote:

jsburger wrote:

videobear wrote:Many would say the DC3300 is not at all adequate. At least one authority on dust collection recommends a minimum capacity of 1100 cfm.

The other components of your dust collection system have a huge impact on how well it works. Ducting should be 4" diameter wherever possible. Ducting should be smooth wall (not corrugated) where possible. I disagree with the need for metal ducting, but if you use plastic, you should run a ground wire along the ducts, and be sure it is attached to every piece of the ducting and to an earth ground.

Blast gates should be used to close off runs of the ducting that are not in use.

Having said all that, when I looked at how much a really effective dust collector/filter system would cost, I went a different route. In my small (24x24) two car garage-cum-workshop, I use an inexpensive Grizzly two bag system with a 5 micron upper filter bag, and a 3M full-face shield/respirator. The Grizzly connects to only one tool at a time with a flexible hose. The two together cost less than half of what companies like Laguna, et. al., are charging for even their least expensive 1 micron cyclone systems.

Please explain how this does anything. Plastic is an insulator. You can't ground plastic. I don't know who started this myth but it has been around for a long long time.

It is NOT a myth, John. Please don't tell me that you have used a large dust collection system that utilizes PVC ducting and never drawn a static arch off the tubing. In fact, I occasionally draw a static arch just working with the simple dusting system that I have with the DC3300.

You worked on and around air frames so I know you know the importance of using static lines.

Of course I know how important static grounding is on aircraft. It is used to dissipate static build up on a CONDUCTIVE surface or component that is otherwise insulated from the air frame by an insulator (plastic, rubber, etc.). Plastic is NOT conductive. You can not ground it.

I have a DC 3300 and I am satisfied with it. I have enough flex hose to reach any where in my garage that I work in.I arrange the machines in a line that I progress through. Main machine then bandsaw on it's own stand. belt sander on the power station and I just move the hose from machine to machine. I also use the Penn State Long Ranger remote switch to turn the DC on and off so I never have to move the DC. (Except to change the bags)
Bill V

The ground wire needs to be wrapped around the pipe with a short 'pitch' so as to drain off any static charge at the points the wire contacts the pipe.

By having a 'short' pitch, the voltage build up is reduced to a safe value.

4" is not recommended for the DC3300. 3" is pretty much a limit.

At least according to Nick.

By contacting the plastic pipe, the drain wire establishes a zero volt potential at that point. Placing another will zero out that point also.

By placing those points close, the potential at a point between them is minimized.

Static voltage will not develop on a conductive surface except when the entire surface is charged the same. The wire merely eliminates the possibility of a large voltage buildup over a long pipe.