Shopsmith Forums

My next project will require some 1.5 mm sawn veneers that I don't have in my inventory so I am cutting my own. The photos in the attached album show my afternoon's work and details of the fence I use on my SS Bandsaw. The blade is a Lennox Trimaster.
The fence is adjustable for drift allowing cutting off the outside rather than next to the fence. This allows the smooth original edge to stay on the fence through multiple cuts.
Today I got all the purpleheart and tulipwood I will need and some of the barberry.
As a bonus I get really pretty sawdust. :-)
There are captions on the photos but you may have to look for them (don't show up on my iPad unless I tap the "info" icon)

https://goo.gl/photos/uDXH9eVWKGKA1YfF9

Interesting push 'block'! Thanks!!!!

That has been my standard tablesaw push block for about forty years JPG.
You can read my rant about them and "thin strip jigs" here.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/130049

Interesting read! I have to totally agree with you!

shipwright wrote:My next project will require some 1.5 mm sawn veneers that I don't have in my inventory so I am cutting my own. The photos in the attached album show my afternoon's work and details of the fence I use on my SS Bandsaw. The blade is a Lennox Trimaster.
The fence is adjustable for drift allowing cutting off the outside rather than next to the fence. This allows the smooth original edge to stay on the fence through multiple cuts.
Today I got all the purpleheart and tulipwood I will need and some of the barberry.
As a bonus I get really pretty sawdust. :-)
There are captions on the photos but you may have to look for them (don't show up on my iPad unless I tap the "info" icon)

https://goo.gl/photos/uDXH9eVWKGKA1YfF9

A Lennox Trimaster, eh? That should come in mighty handy if you need to slice up some tool steel, in between cutting veneers!

Seriously, I've been very curious about those for quite some time. How does it compare to regular woodworking blades, when used for woodworking?

Not a lot of time on it yet but I'm hoping it will be able to cut wide exotic hardwoods for a lot longer without getting dull. So far the toughest task has been the 5" Purpleheart which it cut very well. I am impressed with the Diamond Sterling blades that I have been using but I'm sure they would dull quickly in some of these woods.

Thanks for sharing Shipwright. If you have to move the fence for every cut, how do you ensure uniform thickness? Or are you getting close, then using your drum sander to "true" up the pieces?

ecom1 wrote:Thanks for sharing Shipwright. If you have to move the fence for every cut, how do you ensure uniform thickness? Or are you getting close, then using your drum sander to "true" up the pieces?

Picture number eight shows a piece of 1.5 mm veneer being used to guage the depth of the next cut. A better way would be to set up a point, maybe a ball bearing, 1.5 mm outside the blade and just ahead of the teeth. Then you would just bring the piece up to contact the bearing and clamp. Someone like Incra already makes one but I see no reason to spend money on it. I plan to make one when I cut next.
And yes, it will all go through my ShopSmith drum sander for final exact thicknessing.

Keep posting as this project goes along, please!

Do you find poplar is pretty reliable for getting the drift angle right, or is it just to get it close for what ever hardwood your resawing at the time and there's further adjustment after you start cutting the veneer wood?