Shopsmith Forums

Yesterday I mounted a jigsaw to a table insert. So what is today going to bring? Preview picture:
I'll be back in a short while to post more information and I don't think anyone is going to guess what is happening so just hold off until I get back with more information.

Ed

Rotozip.

As some of you already know and might remember I have a shopsmith 500 that I leave set up as a drill press. I have a powerpro headstock which I really love for this purpose. I was thinking that while in drill press mode it is not as useful as it could be. My first change was to make a table insert that allows me to mount a jigsaw in the table. Jig saws have there own issues but for that time when I would like to have the function of a jigsaw with table I now have it.

I don't love the shopsmith as a router but since I have a powerpro in drill press mode I do have the option of using it as an overhead router. I'm not a fan of the large opening of the shopsmith table insert and the fact that there is no way to use things like guide bushings is something I have dealt with on the 520 but not the 500. Since the 500 only has the top router function this is not such a big deal as it is with the dual tilt version.

Today's project was two fold. First I wanted to make a table insert that would take both reducers and guide bushings. So let's start with some pictures of how that looks. First a picture of the inset with a reducer ring installed:
On the top side a counter bore was made to get the ring flat with the surface of the insert. It is one of the critical operations as you want it flat, easy and slow and testing it a lot gets you there. You can see the drilling here:
The reducer is the standard pc size so any porter cable inserts will fit. The insert is held in place with the stock nut but in order to do that the thickness of the 3/8 plastic has to be reduced. You can see that here:
The results look like this:
I have yet to add the safety pin holes but I have not forgotten them.

So maybe you are still wondering what the first picture in the thread is about???? Well I'm out of time as Dr Who is on in a few minutes so that answer will have to wait for now.

Ed

Time for the second part of this project. You may have gotten sucked into the rotozip hipe at some point, I did twice. I had an early model that didn't work well or long and then upgraded to a newer model. I have no idea if they have gone beyond this version but the second one I got was a leap above the first one.

A rotozip is a sort of special purpose tool but is at heart a large dremel tool or light duty router. They have a lot of attachments so depending on what you are doing they can be handy or just a pain to use. Mine has been sitting in its case for a while but when this project came along I though I'd see how it would fit under the shopsmith and of course mount to the table insert.

I have a plunge base for it so I put that on. That provides some height adjustment and a method of mounting. Now my first tool had only the 1/8" capacity, this second one comes with two collets, the 1/8" and the 1/4". The 1/8" works for light work, sort of, I've broken a lot of those bits during use.
There are several versions of the blades as well. So that first picture was one of those window/door/outlet box ones. Not a good choice for much else. I was using it to locate the mounting holes and after doing so I did do a few cuts with it just to see if it worked at all. It might be useful with the saber blade and thin wood so I'll keep that in mind.

I'm more interested to see how it works as a light weight router. Here I have chucked up a bit:
Here is the under the table shot:
I'm a little worried that it is too light for much but it is working. I'm tempted to drill another hole in the base for a third screw as it could be more sturdy. I do have some trim routers that might also work if this proves to be less then wonderful. For now just light passes.

So I think that is all I have for you today.

Ed

Interesting ,, Looks like that will work well on thin stock like gift boxes ,,,, small finger joints / rabbits /dadoes / even cutting out circles.

I use a router for box joints do to end play on the table saws ,,,that should work well.

I agree with you on the 3rd screw.

Nice job

Can you add guide bushings?

Hobbyman2

Very cool. Is there any way to mount a router in the same manner as the rotozip? I also have the 500.

Hobbyman2 wrote:Interesting ,, Looks like that will work well on thin stock like gift boxes ,,,, small finger joints / rabbits /dadoes / even cutting out circles.

I use a router for box joints do to end play on the table saws ,,,that should work well.

I agree with you on the 3rd screw.

Nice job

Can you add guide bushings?

Hobbyman2

Yes guide bushings are the same size as the reducers.

Ed

Dansmith wrote:Very cool. Is there any way to mount a router in the same manner as the rotozip? I also have the 500.

I don't think a full size router will work this way. I haven't tried it but gut feeling tells me you will not have enough room.

Ed

After playing some more I think while this works the mechanics of the rotozip are such that it will be limited to very light work.

I haven't worked a way to fit another fastener to the base, I have a couple of ideas to try and that might make it a lot more stable. Just have to find some time to play with those ideas.

I'm going to see about mounting one of my trim routers in the same manor, not sure I have the room yet but they are real routers where as the rotozip is not quite there. I have three to look at, maybe start with the Porter Cable as I think that has the best chance.

Ed

That is very cool Ed. It might not have the power to tackle heavy stuff but it might be just the ticket for the smaller projects and might perform really well for box joints. How many amp motor is it ?
Paul