Shopsmith Forums

Anybody with good experiences running the standard kerf (0.125") Forrest woodworker II 40T blade on a 5/8" arbor on a shopsmith with the 1 and 1/8 hp motor?

Any issues with ripping or cross-cutting hardwoods/softwoods of less than 2" thickness with the above setup?

Anybody with experience with the thin kerf forrest WW II blade? Is there any issue with using the thin kerf blades with the riving knife included in the shopsmith upper guard and also the non-through cut riving knife with thin kerf blades?

I am thinking of seeing what all the fuss is about with the Forrest II blades.

Cheers,
John

Sazerac81 wrote:Anybody with good experiences running the standard kerf (0.125") Forrest woodworker II 40T blade on a 5/8" arbor on a shopsmith with the 1 and 1/8 hp motor?

Any issues with ripping or cross-cutting hardwoods/softwoods of less than 2" thickness with the above setup?

Anybody with experience with the thin kerf forrest WW II blade? Is there any issue with using the thin kerf blades with the riving knife included in the shopsmith upper guard and also the non-through cut riving knife with thin kerf blades?

I am thinking of seeing what all the fuss is about with the Forrest II blades.

Cheers,
John

I have not used the thin kerf blade but I have been using the standard kerf blade for years just as you described. I have never had any problems at all. IMO Forrest blades are top notch. It makes an extremely smooth cut. If you have a board with one jointed edge and the other edge sawn you have to really look closely to determine the jointed edge.

Their sharpening service is superb. I send my blade to them and it comes back like new. They also have an extensive repair service. If something happens and it can be repaired they can do it.

Highly recommended.

I cant say I ever spent that kind of money on a saw blade ,.

25-30 dollars seems like a lot to me...80-100 just seems like ya are buying the name .


Many years ago I asked the boss man ,,,,why ,,,,he didn't buy big name brand blades ,he had the best knives and chisels and drill bits , the best machinery ,,,, back then most saws were not speed adjustable .

Now ,,,,,,some blades are best used at certain speeds .

Check the recommended rpm for the blade in question.

He said as long as you use a cross cut blade for cross cutting,,,,,,, and a rip blade for ripping ,,,,,a carbide blade ,,,,was a carbide blade,,if you clean it when ya are done,,,,,, and put it away,,,,, it should last as long as a high dollar blade .



Now things seem different , hardly any one uses hand saws,,,, or for that matter hand tools ,,,,, no one sharpens their own stuff or seems to clean the pitch off their blades .seems like they use it and throw it away.

We had a guy that could replace the carbide tips and even sharpen the blade right down to the nats rear end.

Sorry ,,,,,,,I was remembering the good old days .

No .

If you do,,,, post the results and how well you like it!!

Hobbyman2

jsburger wrote:

Sazerac81 wrote:Anybody with good experiences running the standard kerf (0.125") Forrest woodworker II 40T blade on a 5/8" arbor on a shopsmith with the 1 and 1/8 hp motor?

Any issues with ripping or cross-cutting hardwoods/softwoods of less than 2" thickness with the above setup?

Anybody with experience with the thin kerf forrest WW II blade? Is there any issue with using the thin kerf blades with the riving knife included in the shopsmith upper guard and also the non-through cut riving knife with thin kerf blades?

I am thinking of seeing what all the fuss is about with the Forrest II blades.

Cheers,
John

I have not used the thin kerf blade but I have been using the standard kerf blade for years just as you described. I have never had any problems at all. IMO Forrest blades are top notch. It makes an extremely smooth cut. If you have a board with one jointed edge and the other edge sawn you have to really look closely to determine the jointed edge.

Their sharpening service is superb. I send my blade to them and it comes back like new. They also have an extensive repair service. If something happens and it can be repaired they can do it.

Highly recommended.

===========

Sounds like a top notch out fit, what do they charge to go over the blades?


Hobbyman2

Hobbyman2 wrote:

jsburger wrote:

Sazerac81 wrote:Anybody with good experiences running the standard kerf (0.125") Forrest woodworker II 40T blade on a 5/8" arbor on a shopsmith with the 1 and 1/8 hp motor?

Any issues with ripping or cross-cutting hardwoods/softwoods of less than 2" thickness with the above setup?

Anybody with experience with the thin kerf forrest WW II blade? Is there any issue with using the thin kerf blades with the riving knife included in the shopsmith upper guard and also the non-through cut riving knife with thin kerf blades?

I am thinking of seeing what all the fuss is about with the Forrest II blades.

Cheers,
John

I have not used the thin kerf blade but I have been using the standard kerf blade for years just as you described. I have never had any problems at all. IMO Forrest blades are top notch. It makes an extremely smooth cut. If you have a board with one jointed edge and the other edge sawn you have to really look closely to determine the jointed edge.

Their sharpening service is superb. I send my blade to them and it comes back like new. They also have an extensive repair service. If something happens and it can be repaired they can do it.

Highly recommended.

===========

Sounds like a top notch out fit, what do they charge to go over the blades?


Hobbyman2

I have not looked lately but all the prices are on their web site.

http://www.forrestblades.com/

BTW, they will drill them for a 1 1/4" arbor if you want.

Thanks for the replies! I think I'll make the jump and purchase the 5/8" arbor version of the standard kerf Forrest WWII. If I don't like it, I can easily sell it vs. having it drilled for a 1 1/4" arbor which would make it a bit more difficult to sell to non-SSers.

Plus, I need to put my 5/8" SS arbor to good use. It is quite a beastly arbor and it has had nothing to put in it so the Forrest WWII will break it in.

As for the whole "use, abuse and refuse(noun)" cycle. I am not into that and that is why I am looking for a quality blade that will last for years and can be passed down to my kids/grandkids. I have just heard too many good things about this blade.

I've actually resuscitated 5 shopsmiths of varying generations and have put them to use in either my hands or others that appreciate the history of these machines. Only a few of the specialty purpose tools were nearly on death's door. I am always surprised by how well the machines run, even after years of neglect, when you start de-rustifying, lubricating and oiling up all the running parts.

About the Forrest WWII blade... the way some people gush after using it and continue to remain steadfast and loyal customers must mean they are doing something right. Hopefully, I'll find myself in the loyal customer camp from my experience.

Cheers,
John

I don't think you will be disappointed. Do shop around. Don't pay full price from Forrest. You can easily get one $15-$20 less than full price.

I use Freud, Forrest and Shopsmith blades. I use mostly blades from Shopsmith which used to be Freud in disguise. I don't know now who makes the Shopsmith blade.

I prefer the larger arbor hole but that does not limit me since the blades I prefer can all be gotten with the larger hole.

Let us face it. It is all a matter of preference and cost.

Just DO NOT use a dull blade. Dull blades, no matter who makes them originally, can be hazardous to your well-being.

I have a Forrest WWII 5/8 arbor full-kerf blade. The Shopsmith will power it no problem. It is a great blade. That said, I haven't used it in quite a while. I bought the three Shopsmith thin-kerf blades and absolutely love them.

algale wrote:I have a Forrest WWII 5/8 arbor full-kerf blade. The Shopsmith will power it no problem. It is a great blade. That said, I haven't used it in quite a while. I bought the three Shopsmith thin-kerf blades and absolutely love them.

Is it because you feel that they are better than the forrest WWII? Do they cut better, smoother or more cleanly in thicker stock?

Or is because you now have three blades that perform their inherent tasks very well.

I have the older carbide thin kerf blades shopsmith sold in like the 90's. The newer ones that shopsmith sell seem to have much fancier vibration dampening mechanisms similar to the better freud and forrest blades.

Cheers,
John