Shopsmith Forums

Hello Forum. New to Shopsmith. Picked up a 510 model a few months ago and just got around to cleaning, waxing, etc. Started aligning and everything was fine until I got to the end with aligning the Fence. Did that using both a MasterGage and also a Woodpeckers Gauge to try to get the best alignment. Did that I did a test cut only to see that the fence is now way off compared to how it was before the alignment. Upon investigation, I noticed that the main table, when pushed to meet the sanding disk does not meet flush on the out-feed end. I also noticed that when I lower the table to get the blade through, the part of the lower saw guide that meets at the top tip of the blade does not show thru the insert as straight. I also pushed the the main table to meet the extension table and i can also see the same gap at the out-feed end. Question is, is it just me or is the table itself possible out of alignment. If so, can I align using the table hold down bolts?

Secondly, with the miter gauge, when i slide it in the slot it leaves black marks a a very faint scratch on the table. There are 2 screws/bolts that keeps it from rocking side to side and this is what is making the marks. I though those are supposed to be some kind of plastic glides?

Lastly, i cleaned and waxed the way tubes, etc but the Headstock takes a bit of muscle to slide along the tubes . The carriage glides well. What am I missing here?
Need directions and solution please... Ladies ans Gents.
Cheers

Hello Forum. New to Shopsmith. Picked up a 510 model a few months ago and just got around to cleaning, waxing, etc. Started aligning and everything was fine until I got to the end with aligning the Fence. Did that using both a MasterGage and also a Woodpeckers Gauge to try to get the best alignment. Did that I did a test cut only to see that the fence is now way off compared to how it was before the alignment. Upon investigation, I noticed that the main table, when pushed to meet the sanding disk does not meet flush on the out-feed end. I also noticed that when I lower the table to get the blade through, the part of the lower saw guide that meets at the top tip of the blade does not show thru the insert as straight. I also pushed the the main table to meet the extension table and i can also see the same gap at the out-feed end. Question is, is it just me or is the table itself possible out of alignment. If so,




{{{{can I align using the table hold down bolts?}}}

yes
============

Secondly, with the miter gauge, when i slide it in the slot it leaves black marks a a very faint scratch on the table. There are 2 screws/bolts that keeps it from rocking side to side and this is what is making the marks.
{{{I though those are supposed to be some kind of plastic glides?}}}
-
yes they are,,wax the table with some sort of paste wax,,,, make sure the glides are adjusted so the miter gage is also square to the table as well as the rocking is gone.

===========




Lastly, i cleaned and waxed the way tubes, etc but the Headstock takes a bit of muscle to slide along the tubes . The carriage glides well. What {{{am I missing here?}}}
-
what works for me is to loosen the lock lever a little more .
===========

Others may have more to add and things to check

babalaisi wrote:Hello Forum. New to Shopsmith. Picked up a 510 model a few months ago and just got around to cleaning, waxing, etc. Started aligning and everything was fine until I got to the end with aligning the Fence. Did that using both a MasterGage and also a Woodpeckers Gauge to try to get the best alignment. Did that I did a test cut only to see that the fence is now way off compared to how it was before the alignment. Upon investigation, I noticed that the main table, when pushed to meet the sanding disk does not meet flush on the out-feed end. I also noticed that when I lower the table to get the blade through, the part of the lower saw guide that meets at the top tip of the blade does not show thru the insert as straight. I also pushed the the main table to meet the extension table and i can also see the same gap at the out-feed end. Question is, is it just me or is the table itself possible out of alignment. If so, can I align using the table hold down bolts?

Secondly, with the miter gauge, when i slide it in the slot it leaves black marks a a very faint scratch on the table. There are 2 screws/bolts that keeps it from rocking side to side and this is what is making the marks. I though those are supposed to be some kind of plastic glides?

Lastly, i cleaned and waxed the way tubes, etc but the Headstock takes a bit of muscle to slide along the tubes . The carriage glides well. What am I missing here?
Need directions and solution please... Ladies ans Gents.
Cheers

I think we might have started this race at the wrong track.

To align the Main Table to the blade (or to the miter slots, whichever you chose) did you loosen the four trunnion bolts (the bolts that secure the table to the trunnions). If you did not do that, this would be a reason why the blade does not come up square to the table.

That alignment is fundamental to all other table related alignments. If it is not done correctly, that will be witnesses somewhere later.

The two screws in the bottom side of the miter gauge should be nylon. However, mine are black.

The very basics of alignment is to have the blade parallel to the miter slots. This is a must. Now how you get there is another story. From what I read into what you wrote I'd say its time to start over.

It is critical that you have all the locks locked when you start adjusting. This is the quill lock, the table locks, and carriage lock and the headstock lock.

You need to have the table locked square to the blade and not tilted to some angle. You do not want the table touching any extension tables. The carriage should be against the rubber baby bumper which should also be against the headstock.

The screws holding the table need to be loosened but snug enough to be difficult to move, taping with a rubber mallet is except able method of moving things.

You want to get the reading on the in feed side and the out feed side to read the same. It doesn't matter what the reading is but it does need to be the same.

Once you have that it's time to snug the bolts and check again. Then tighten the bolts and check again.

If the number go off then its time to back up and try again.

Only after this is done can you move on to other alignment tasks.

Again you have to have the blade aligned to the miter slots, it is the only way this can work.

The glides should be plastic, check to make sure they were not replaced with the wrong parts by the previous owner. Previous owners are the worst and best thing that can happen to a used machine.

I'd re-wax the tubes making sure you let the wax dry before buffing off. Make sure it is Johnson's original formula or similar. Car wax and things like that do not work. If you find it is still hard to move then it is possible that other actions might need to be taken. Try the wax again then we can go from there.

Ed

I have to mention that sequence of alignment is critical.

First is to align the table(miter gauge SLOTS) to be parallel with the saw blade/sanding disk. Yes that is accomplished by loosening the table/trunion mounting screws and moving the table on the trunion. The headstock and carriage and table height clamps MUST be tightened when 'measuring/adjusting'.

Next is to align the fence to be parallel with the miter slots(and the blade if first step was done previously).

Then adjusting the miter gauge stops comes last.

Oh and the auxillary table is also aligned with the mounting screws. If your does not have studs and three nuts/washers on each stud, making that alteration makes alignment much easier.

Dusty and Reible have posted while I was creating this. Heed all three of us. We are essentially saying the same thing(Ed did it best).

The headstock lock wedges may not be completely releasing. Loosen the wingnut and push in/out on it. It may 'clunk' as it releases.

P.S. WELCOME to the forum. No ? is dumb etc..

Thanks Dusty, Reible, Hobbyman2 and JPG. I hear you "guys" load and clear. I looks like I missed an important step in my aligning. Will return to the beginning as stated. I just have one follow up to the Main Table adjustment. I understand loosening the table and adjusting but what am I adjust to and what am I using to adjust the table to blade? I could not find any clear instruction on adjusting the main table anywhere. May i please ask for a little more instructions added to what has been said earlier. Other adjustments I think I have quite understand. just do not want to make any mistake with what looks to be a very crucial step in setting up, adjusting and aligning.
Much appreciated

baba

You mentioned having a master plate so let's start with that being mounted on a shopsmith saw arbor. Then mount the arbor on the shopsmith. I would take the table insert out of the table but that is not critical. Easier the table so it will clear the plate then slide the table over the plate. This is a good time to visually check that the carriage is tight to the headstock separated only by the rubber ring on the tubes. Now check all of the locks to make sure they are tight.

Use the miter slot closer to the headstock and put your gauge in it. With the gauge near the in feed side of the plate take a look at what the gauge reads, in fact right it down. Now do the same thing at the outfeed end of the plate.

These numbers should be the same. If they are not then the machine is not aligned. From what you wrote I would expect then to be quite far off. This is the point where you need to move the table until the in feed and out feed numbers are the same.

The closer you get those numbers to being the same the better. You will/might find it will be a move the front this way then the back that way only to move the front the other way.... But you do not care what the measurement is only that they agree.

Once you start tighten the bolts thing might move, so keep checking each step of the way. Snug one bolt then the next all in small steps into they are tight and the numbers still match. You maybe off a small amount but the close they are the better. We are taking thousands of an inch here, very small amounts but they count.

Ed

Before I bought the Shopsmith,,,, I took a few minutes and watched this assortment of videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Volf5YoT2U

Not sure if this will help

Here is the thing with the table as I understand it,,,what I have done ,,,it worked for me ,,,,,first ,,the table is square ,,unless some one has altered the edges it is square ,,it is also square to the miter gage slots and dust groves.

Like the others have said if you have the table with dust groves,,the 510 / 520 table ,,,the groves are parallel with the edges ,,they are also square to the front and back of the table ,,,three things need to be to make perfect 90 deg cuts , the table square to the blade will help setting up your fence or miter gage ,,,,, the blade at a perfect 90 degree angle to the table ,,,if using a miter gage it needs to also be 90 deg to the table as well as square to the blade , the fence ,,,if used,,,, parallel to the blade .

all that in mind if you put the sanding disc on the machine , butt the table to the disc,,,, and tighten it down making sure the table stays butted to the disc,,then the table should be square to the blade when it is installed ,,,to check it you can do several things ,,one you can attach a dial indicator to the miter gage and slide the miter gage back and forth across through the miter gage groves , providing the sanding disc or blade isn't warped or wobbly and the miter gage groves are square to the disc or blade you should get the same reading all the way across the disc.

It will probably vary a couple thousandths .

you can also use your long allen wrench ,,,if you have one ,, or a 1/8 in dowel , insert it in the side of the miter gage ,,some have a hole just for that ,,,, there is a set screw that inserts in the top of the miter gage ,when you have slid the allen over to contact the sanding disc ,,just tighten it down,, ,the end of the allen should touch all the way across the disc with out any gaps or binding .,,if not re-adjust the table so it does.

The fence also has 2 alignment screws for fine adjusting .

The key i have found when setting the fence to the blade .

After installing the table insert ,,,,,,,and the blade is through the table insert ,

Slide the fence to it touches the blade , and adjust the alignment screws on the fence if needed to calibrate the fence.

If I remember those videos above will explain it.

Like said make sure all locks are tight before checking and using the saw

If you are referring to the two screws on the front outside of the fence, be advised they are not there for aligning the fence. They should be backed out or better yet removed for all operations except for intentionally skewing the fence which is their purpose.

the two alignment screws are shown in one of those videos,,, they are underneath the fence.


Would it make any difference though if the fence was skewed to make it parallel to the blade or at any other angle ?