Shopsmith Forums

Been trying to align my 1993 MK5 (500) for the last couple of days. Have not used the SS saw for a long time. Nevertheless, I want to get my SS saw going again. However, for the life of me, I cannot get a perfect 90 degree cross-cut. Been trying for 2 afternoons now.

First thing I did about 3 days ago is align the miter slots to the blade. It appears to be within .002. I am using the original miter gauge with and without the lock down. I tightened to miter bar to miter slot fit. I checked the angle of the miter gauge to blade. It is the original Shopsmith combo blade. Never been sharpened.

On rare occasion (going through a lot of scrap wood), the cut is a good 90. Most of the time the cut is off by about .008 over 4" (using newer Starrett 6" combo square that is right on). Sometimes the cut is about 1/16" out.

When the cut is off, it is always lower on the blade entry side. In other words, more is cut off on the blade entry side of the cut.

I am thinking I am doing something wrong. Help would be appreciated.

Are you saying that the cut is OK one time and off another? In that case, the first thing I'd suspect is that your quill (or headstock or carriage) isn't well-locked and the blade is creeping sideways during the cut.

In very basic terms I would check the alignment again. Make sure all of the locks are locked before doing so. If the blade to miter slot is within the .002" then for sure the problem is else where.

One thing that I noticed was the comment about "I tightened to miter bar to miter slot fit." If you are referencing the tapered set screw in the miter bar that is not to adjust fit. It is for locking the miter bar in the track. If you have been attempting to use that for an adjustment, in one word don't.

Next I would use a good square to make sure the compass head on the miter gauge is square to the miter bar. Once you have that square lock it in place and adjust the pin/set screw to allow you to return to "zero". Then do the two 45 degree stops.

With this done you should now check the squareness of another cut. When I hear the variability that you are seeing these things come to mind: One is that the quill is not locked/blade or arbor is not tight or that the wood is creeping while you are cutting. Does your miter gauge have the clamp on it? If so adjust it and grip the work piece tightly while making the cuts. Sometimes it might be good to add an auxiliary fence to the miter gauge and add some self stick sandpaper to that. If the work piece moves it will not be square.

On a 4" cut you should not have any error, no light between the square and the work piece. Do remember to measure using the edge that was against the miter gauge and the cut.....

If you still have the error after doing the above come back and we can look at some less likely issues.

Ed

Are both edges of the board parallel to each other? If not then the cut will be square to one edge but not the other.
Bill V

I've found that it can be difficult to get a perfect 90 degree cut using the miter. If you are cutting hardwood, it is too easy to have the wood slip just slightly as you cut through it and that makes it look like you cut at an angle.
I suggest that you build a crosscut sled and try it again. Take your time building the sled and make sure you get it exactly 90 degrees. Then, when you do crosscuts, you can hold the wood firmly on both sides of the blade so there is much less chance that it can walk sideways.

john_001 wrote:Are you saying that the cut is OK one time and off another? In that case, the first thing I'd suspect is that your quill (or headstock or carriage) isn't well-locked and the blade is creeping sideways during the cut.

Thanks, John. What I am trying to say is that the cut is good on the rare occasion, but most of the time it is off around .008". Quill is locked tightly.

reible wrote:In very basic terms I would check the alignment again. Make sure all of the locks are locked before doing so. If the blade to miter slot is within the .002" then for sure the problem is else where.

One thing that I noticed was the comment about "I tightened to miter bar to miter slot fit." If you are referencing the tapered set screw in the miter bar that is not to adjust fit. It is for locking the miter bar in the track. If you have been attempting to use that for an adjustment, in one word don't.

Next I would use a good square to make sure the compass head on the miter gauge is square to the miter bar. Once you have that square lock it in place and adjust the pin/set screw to allow you to return to "zero". Then do the two 45 degree stops.

With this done you should now check the squareness of another cut. When I hear the variability that you are seeing these things come to mind: One is that the quill is not locked/blade or arbor is not tight or that the wood is creeping while you are cutting. Does your miter gauge have the clamp on it? If so adjust it and grip the work piece tightly while making the cuts. Sometimes it might be good to add an auxiliary fence to the miter gauge and add some self stick sandpaper to that. If the work piece moves it will not be square.

On a 4" cut you should not have any error, no light between the square and the work piece. Do remember to measure using the edge that was against the miter gauge and the cut.....

If you still have the error after doing the above come back and we can look at some less likely issues.

Ed

Thanks, Ed.

Checked alignment on multiple occassions.

Whoops on the miter bar tightning. I thought that was to snug it up. I loosened it up to where it is slightly lower than the top of the miter bar. It is a quite a bit looser when not tightened, about .006 to .007 of play. I would use a punch to dimple it; however, I am not so sure that is a good idea on an aluminum slot.

I did use a good square; but, I did not bother with the 45 yet. I am taking baby steps, and want to get a consistently accurate square cut.

Quill is locked tight. I'm thinking you might be right on the workpiece moving. But, I did try the clamp on the miter guage with slightly better results at times.

An extension on the miter gauge with sandpaper may help. I should make one.

I mark my workpeice so I know I am only measuring from the miter gauge side.

wa2crk wrote:Are both edges of the board parallel to each other? If not then the cut will be square to one edge but not the other.
Bill V

Thanks, Bill. Did not make them parallel on most pieces; but, I am only measuring from the one side that I marked that I put against the miter gauge.

garys wrote:I've found that it can be difficult to get a perfect 90 degree cut using the miter. If you are cutting hardwood, it is too easy to have the wood slip just slightly as you cut through it and that makes it look like you cut at an angle.
I suggest that you build a crosscut sled and try it again. Take your time building the sled and make sure you get it exactly 90 degrees. Then, when you do crosscuts, you can hold the wood firmly on both sides of the blade so there is much less chance that it can walk sideways.

Thanks, Garys. I am certainly moving in the direction of building a sled; however, I want to be able to do it with just the miter gauge just to be sure that I can.

You mentioned around 4 inches the cut starts going off .

How wide is the board you are trying to cut?

I went through the same thing and found out it was the square ,,,,{and},,,, my quill has just a small bit of play in it.

The miter gage slot wasn't square to the blade ,,,,,,even though,,,, my square said it was,,,, until I slid it across like described.

Try laying your square on the table against the miter gage and against the blade and sliding it across and see if it still has run off , if not and the board isn't reading square after cutting it ,,,the square may not be registering correctly .


I wouldn't dimple any thing ,maybe snug it up a tad bit but you might make it worse by smacking it with a punch.