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I'm going to start to learn how to turn bowls. Do I need a bowl gouge or can I get by with a spindle gouge?
Thanks
Danny

dannyshamoon wrote:I'm going to start to learn how to turn bowls. Do I need a bowl gouge or can I get by with a spindle gouge?
Thanks
Danny

Watch this video and then decide:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOhHeyoZLaY

If you don't feel like watching the whole thing then this will give you the idea of what can happen when using a spindle gouge for bowl work.

I'll post a capture from the video but down lower with the warning that there is blood involved so don't go there if you don't want to see it.
















































































Ed

Like Ed said use the right tool for the job .


Since I seem to enjoy rambling here is a true story,,

So one of the first jobs I had after high school was turning a train wheel patterns on a face plate lathe for these little trains that were being set up all over in theme parks ,,,,,,,the lathe could handle up to a 6ft dia disc, you actually had a tool rest that was attached to the bottom of the lathe and you stood ,,on,,, the lathe,,,back then there wasn't much in PPE around ,,,,common sense was a given ,,, it was up to you to wear what you thought was needed,,,, the first thing I was told was,,,, here is a face shield wear it !!


Even today when I turn any thing I cringe if I don't have one .
Safety glasses are a must but a face shield can save you from a very painful trip to the hospital.


I have seen bowels come apart and fly past your head at a speed that would take your eye out or a chunk out of your head .



They use to say in trucking industry ,, you can go down a mountain a million times to slow, you may only make it one time going too fast.

Never, Never, Never use a spindle gouge for bowl turning. And do not use a roughing gouge or a spindle gouge for hollowing any bowl. Go to any website that sells lathe tools and look at the differences between the tools. A bowl gouge has thicker body material and the flutes of a bowl gouge have steeper walls to absorb the torque of hollowing. In addition a spindle gouge has a tang whereas a bowl gouge has the body of the tool going straight into the handle. This is much stronger than the tang of the spindle gouge. The design of the bowl gouge also enables you to reach further over the tool rest when hollowing. BE SAFE!!!!!!
Bill V

YES... I see now my death in the future using a spindle.
SO SS today has an email special for a set of carbide tools, a roughing cutter, detailing cutter and a finishing cutter. I'm guessing that those 3 will provide everything I would use for turning all of what I want. Opinions?????????????
THANKS for the help
Danny

I seen those to ,

I have never used them , however I know they come highly recommended ,



All it takes is to hit a knot or twisted grain or even a failure in the lathe itself ,,,, and things can go sour .


Those tools you mentioned are from what I hear are top notch, other brands are out there and they are not cheap , a sharp tool will save you a lot of sanding and ,make your wood working hobby much more satisfying .

If you have a woodcraft shop around check their schedule , they often have folks doing demos using the tools, .

It is correct that you should never use a spindle roughing gouge, also known as a roughing-out gouge, on bowls. Roughing gouges are made from a piece of flat stock rolled into a U shape and have a flat, weak tang. They are ground straight across and that shape is just asking for a catch in a bowl blank.

However, I think that some clarifications are needed re spindle gouges vs bowl gouges. Both are made from round bar stock and bowl gouges usually have a deeper flute, letting them clear chips better. Spindle gouges will be stronger than bowl gouges of the same diameter since there is more steel left. Spindle gouges can be used on bowls and bowl gouges on spindle work, however, the shape of the tool will determine its usefulness and application.

Here is one source of more information:

http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges1.html

Mike

That's a great reference for a novice turner like me, Mike. Thanks for posting!

Mike907 wrote:It is correct that you should never use a spindle roughing gouge, also known as a roughing-out gouge, on bowls. Roughing gouges are made from a piece of flat stock rolled into a U shape and have a flat, weak tang. They are ground straight across and that shape is just asking for a catch in a bowl blank.

However, I think that some clarifications are needed re spindle gouges vs bowl gouges. Both are made from round bar stock and bowl gouges usually have a deeper flute, letting them clear chips better. Spindle gouges will be stronger than bowl gouges of the same diameter since there is more steel left. Spindle gouges can be used on bowls and bowl gouges on spindle work, however, the shape of the tool will determine its usefulness and application.

Here is one source of more information:

http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges1.html

Mike

Some excellent advice there Mike. I do mostly turning but still felt inspired to bookmark that page. Always good to refresh what you may have forgotten!
Spot on about the difference between a Spindle ROUGHING gouge and a Spindle gouge. NO NAY NEVER use a roughing gouge on a bowl.
If you are new to bowl turning try one of those carbide tools (round cutter) as an all purpose tool. Easy Wood is a good brand, but most brands use good carbide cutters so shop around. Good for roughing out the inside or outside of a bowl. It is possible to get a fairly clean finish cut from them as well. As you skill improves, branch out to more traditional tools. You will learn to love them.
One last thing, and I only put this out there because I have seen it done... Don't use a skew on a bowl unless you like emergency rooms! You will either hurt yourself or get so frustrated that you will hurt someone else!