Shopsmith Forums

Just received my "new" toy. It is the later 1-5 version.
This was the first one I've seen on ebay recently that has been in my price range. (Buy it now. $80.00 + $23.00 S&H = $143.00 CDN )
Seller had it listed as "for parts", so it has some issues, the base-bracket, (C2249), is broken and the floating sheave is frozen,

Some TLC will be required but I am confident I can get it up and running again.

Some progress, mostly disassembled but the floating sheave is still frozen.

Get some cheap transmission fluid and some acetone mix 50/50, and soak it in it covered, acetone evaps fast, for a day or 2. Then try and get it to rotate first, then if you get it to rotate, then try and get it to slide. Dont use too much force.

How do you plan on welding the broke part together? I think they are aluminum so Heli Arc? Keeping the spacing of it to get back on the way tubes will be critical.

I have bought 3 off of EBay that were totally functional, for 150$ US+ shipping about 175$ total. 2 were rebuilt with new bronze bushings.

ERLover wrote:Get some cheap transmission fluid and some acetone mix 50/50, and soak it in it covered, acetone evaps fast, for a day or 2. Then try and get it to rotate first, then if you get it to rotate, then try and get it to slide. Dont use too much force.

I got the first one off using Silicon spray lube, (not sure if it is the silicon itself or the propellant), I have had success with it before. I didn't see any rust on the shaft, so I think it is just dirt and congealed oil. I may just soak it in solvent first, and then try Evaporust if that doesn't work.

ERLover wrote:How do you plan on welding the broke part together? I think they are aluminum so Heli Arc? Keeping the spacing of it to get back on the way tubes will be critical.

I am thinking of gluing on an aluminum plate with JB Weld and then reinforcing it with bolts or pop-rivets.

ERLover wrote:I have bought 3 off of EBay that were totally functional, for 150$ US+ shipping about 175$ total. 2 were rebuilt with new bronze bushings.

But with the exchange rate at $1.00 CDN = $0.72 USD and higher shipping rates one of those would wind up around $250 CDN total for me. And many US sellers don't ship to Canada.

I have one of these still in the shipping bag/box it came in. I had it out to look over but not taken it apart.

Mine "looks" to be in good condition but I guess now that someone has mentioned it.... how do you know if the bushings are OK or not?

How does one manage to damage one like is pictured? A repair would seem to dictate that you know why the damage occurred and then come up with a repair that prevents it from happening again. If the part is normally stressed to almost the point of damage shown or was it a misuse sort of event or accident???

Ed

This seems to be a somewhat common failure. I wonder if misguided attempts to move a jammed headstock/speed changer pair by prying to be the cause.

A more common failure is broken ears(the result of forced speed changes(fully compressed springs).

reible wrote:I have one of these still in the shipping bag/box it came in. I had it out to look over but not taken it apart.

Mine "looks" to be in good condition but I guess now that someone has mentioned it.... how do you know if the bushings are OK or not?

How does one manage to damage one like is pictured? A repair would seem to dictate that you know why the damage occurred and then come up with a repair that prevents it from happening again. If the part is normally stressed to almost the point of damage shown or was it a misuse sort of event or accident???

Ed

My understanding, (but I've been wrong before ) is that this is a fairly common break.

The hole that the break runs through is where it attaches to the headstock. This connection should be on the loose side, if the retaining nut has been overtightened it can cause the speed changer to jam on the way tubes and put too much stress on the casting (where the break is) when moving the headstock.

Looking at the broken casting I think it should have been designed a bit stronger. there is a rib along the top edge, but I think it should have a rib along the bottom edge too, and a thicker boss around the hole.

rpd wrote:

reible wrote:I have one of these still in the shipping bag/box it came in. I had it out to look over but not taken it apart.

Mine "looks" to be in good condition but I guess now that someone has mentioned it.... how do you know if the bushings are OK or not?

How does one manage to damage one like is pictured? A repair would seem to dictate that you know why the damage occurred and then come up with a repair that prevents it from happening again. If the part is normally stressed to almost the point of damage shown or was it a misuse sort of event or accident???

Ed

My understanding, (but I've been wrong before ) is that this is a fairly common break.

The hole that the break runs through is where it attaches to the headstock. This connection should be on the loose side, if the retaining nut has been overtightened it can cause the speed changer to jam on the way tubes and put too much stress on the casting (where the break is) when moving the headstock.

Looking at the broken casting I think it should have been designed a bit stronger. there is a rib along the top edge, but I think it should have a rib along the bottom edge too, and a thicker boss around the hole.

Everything mentioned is part of the problem. However, the real problem is that there is a space between the head stock and the speed changer casting where the motor post set screw passes through the speed changer hole and the retaining nut is installed. There is enough of a gap that over tightening the retaining nut will probably break the casting.

What should have happened was that there should have been a boss cast around the hole on the head stock side so that the casting contacted the head stock when the retaining nut was installed. At the very least a thick washer could have been supplied so the gorillas were thwarted.

The retaining nut is just that, a retaining nut. It only needs to be finger tight so that the speed changer follows the head stock movement.