Shopsmith Forums

I recently checked my SS bandsaw (purchased new in about 1993) for blade drift. Used the method shown in the SS video. In any event, I have adjusted for drift and am getting pretty good resaws. Only tried on a 2x4 cutting along the higher width.

Here is my question. The adjustment of my SS fence is about 1/2". To be more specific, the table is about 15" long and from the clamping end to the end in front of the saw there is about 1/2" of difference with the toe in towards the blade. This 1/2" seems a little excessive to me, or is it?

I initially tried with a SS 1/4" blade. Same amount of drift; but, as expected, not very accurate for resawing. I now have a SS 5/8" inch blade on it and the drift is the same; but, very accurate for resawing. The 5/8" blade is from a newly opened package, while the 1/4" blade was a little dull in comparison.

My upper blade guide is such that it allows the roller to ride free of the back of the blade; but, such that with pressure on the blade, the blade touches the roller.The lower blade guide roller does not spin freely.

I do note that I have some side to side play in my guide post.

I have plenty of tension on the blade.

EDIT: I eliminated the "drift". Operator error. See new post below.

I don't have a SS bandsaw, but I do have a bandsaw. The way I learned how to set it up is to not have the roller touch the blade when it's just running. It should only touch the roller/block/bearing when you're sawing.

I have found this youtube video to be very detailed. Maybe watch it and see if any of these adjustments fix your 1/2" difference on your fence.

That all being said my bandsaw used to have a difference between the front and back of the fence as well. It turned out the tension on the fence was too, and there was a slight defect in the metal fence where it clamps that caused it to bend. I fixed the defect using the bench sander. After those adjustments my fence lined up perfectly front to back. YMMV.

Hope at least some of this might help!

n240sxle91 wrote:I don't have a SS bandsaw, but I do have a bandsaw. The way I learned how to set it up is to not have the roller touch the blade when it's just running. It should only touch the roller/block/bearing when you're sawing.

I have found this youtube video to be very detailed. Maybe watch it and see if any of these adjustments fix your 1/2" difference on your fence.

That all being said my bandsaw used to have a difference between the front and back of the fence as well. It turned out the tension on the fence was too, and there was a slight defect in the metal fence where it clamps that caused it to bend. I fixed the defect using the bench sander. After those adjustments my fence lined up perfectly front to back. YMMV.

Hope at least some of this might help!

CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!!

The SS bandsaw is a different animal.*

The LOWER guide(backup) bearing must maintain contact at all times. It's main purpose is to guide the back of the blade onto the LOWER wheel. When dealing with the SS bandsaw one must be very careful so as to ascertain whether 'advice' is applicable.

* NO crown on the wheels.
* The position on the wheels is controlled by the upper(rear) and lower(front) guide bearings.
* The wheels are NOT coplaner.
* The rim of the wheels is beveled.
* The upper wheel is canted.

As indicated above in my EDIT, I no longer have any significant "drift". Wnet back and read my SS Banaw manual and followed the set-up procedures and got it right, apparently. Table was out of alignment to blade. I aligned them. Blade guides were too far forward. I moved them back. Guide blocks needed some adjustment, and I adjusted them. I also no longer have side to side play in the guide post. I eliminated this play by tightening the nylon upper blade guide column post screw.

I am pleased with the result. When all else fails, refer to the manual.

I'm glad you were able to readjust everything and get it working properly. After I posted I thought maybe your table was out of alignment, but you fixed it before I could get back online!

JPG,
Thanks for jumping in and making sure people know there is a difference between the SS bandsaw and most other makes. I obviously didn't know of the difference, but that's also why started it off by stating I don't own one!

That being said, coming from personal experience with other bandsaws it really feels strange to me that SS made a bandsaw that forces you to have bearing contact on the blade. Seems like an unfortunate design flaw. Minimal metal on metal contact is best for the life of the blade.

n240sxle91 wrote:I'm glad you were able to readjust everything and get it working properly. After I posted I thought maybe your table was out of alignment, but you fixed it before I could get back online!

JPG,
Thanks for jumping in and making sure people know there is a difference between the SS bandsaw and most other makes. I obviously didn't know of the difference, but that's also why started it off by stating I don't own one!

That being said, coming from personal experience with other bandsaws it really feels strange to me that SS made a bandsaw that forces you to have bearing contact on the blade. Seems like an unfortunate design flaw. Minimal metal on metal contact is best for the life of the blade.

Call it what you will but the contact is against a rolling bearing so I doubt there is much if any ware. It is not a moving blade rubbing against stationary metal. If it is a design flaw it is a "design flaw" that has been working just fine for almost 65 years.

Not sure if 1993 is the old BS or not, but there is a newer guide post housing, if you will, that has a nylon bolt to remove excessive side to side movement that usually causes a problem with resaw ops. Once I got the new housing and adjusted the bolt, plus started using the newer guide blocks, the cool blocks (allows you to snug them up reducing play) I have never had a problem since, worth taking a look...

I've heard good things about the cool blocks, but I haven't tried them. I might have to look into them a bit more.

Even though the setup is slightly different between the SS bandsaw and other brand bandsaws, the side guide bearings appear to be setup the same. So, you guys should check out the YouTube video I linked above. It's very informative, and I feel it's a must see for bandsaw users.

n240sxle91 wrote:I've heard good things about the cool blocks, but I haven't tried them. I might have to look into them a bit more.

Even though the setup is slightly different between the SS bandsaw and other brand bandsaws, the side guide bearings appear to be setup the same. So, you guys should check out the YouTube video I linked above. It's very informative, and I feel it's a must see for bandsaw users.

There is nothing wrong with cool blocks but they ware very quickly and need constant dressing and adjustment to maintain optimum performance.

I bought a set of Carter roller side guides when they were first introduced years ago and never looked back. I wouldn't be without them.

http://www.carterproducts.com/shopsmith-bandsaw

I also have the Carter Stabilizer for use with narrow blades to allow tighter radius cuts.

http://www.carterproducts.com/shopsmith-shs1

They are quality products that will last you a lifetime. I am surprised SS does not offer them on their web site.

I just noticed I never placed the YouTube link! Sorry!

It's actually a guy from Carter Products.
https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU

Enjoy!