Shopsmith Forums

I am still looking at lathe chisels and have about decided on the One-Way 5/8 gouge with the 17.5 inch handle. I am getting pretty good turning segmented bowels and vessels and was wondering if anyone has this gouge. I think the U-shaped gouge might better than the V-shaped one. Any ideas on this. How does the One Way gouge work on the end grain of the segmented turnings? Would a 3/4 gouge work better? My sharpening skills are getting better. I presently have some low quality Craftsman chisels and the 5-piece set from Shopsmith that I have been using. Can a bowl gouge be sharpened with the Shopsmith jig? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry

One-way is a well known company and I have some things of theirs and have been well pleased with those items. I do not have any of their lathe tools.

I had several lathe tools on my purchase list this year and one thing I wanted was a fingernail grind bowl gouge. I have the tool but as of yet I have not gotten around to turning a handle and of course that means it has not touched wood yet. After much deliberation I went to:

http://d-waytools.com/gouges/bowl-gouges/

I have no idea if this was the best choice but it has been made. I don't know if you have looked at d-way but at least take a look at their offerings.

While there are many ways of sharpening and I have several I have also decided to go to the Wolverine Grinding Jig and the Vari-Grind for at least part of my lathe tool grinding. I've also added a CBN grinding wheel, still not mounted but I'm looking forward to that happening yet this spring.

I do have the shopsmith strip sander with the 555812 Chisel Sharpener. I really like that system and will continure to use it also. I like that I can touch up a tool with fine belt, polish an edge on a leather belt, put a course belt on and reshape an edge and then work it through the grits as far as I like.

I have in the past used the 555193 Sharpening Guide and while I still have it I don't often use it anymore. It does work but once you find a way that you like better it hard to go back to.

I also am a fan of carbide tools, easywood and now the axe tools from carter. I'm not a fan of generic carbide inserts.

I have two Oneway Talon lathe chucks and the Oneway Wolverine sharpening system. I like the sharpening system because it leaves a concave bevel on the tools which saves metal. You can hone the bevel with a credit card sized sharpening tool several times before you have to go back to the grinder. I am also a fan of the Robert Sorby carbide cutter with the Sovereign handle system. That handle allows you to use unhandled lathe tools so you can have a drawer full of cutters and not a drawer full of handles.
JMHO
BillV

wa2crk wrote:I have two Oneway Talon lathe chucks and the Oneway Wolverine sharpening system. I like the sharpening system because it leaves a concave bevel on the tools which saves metal. You can hone the bevel with a credit card sized sharpening tool several times before you have to go back to the grinder. I am also a fan of the Robert Sorby carbide cutter with the Sovereign handle system. That handle allows you to use unhandled lathe tools so you can have a drawer full of cutters and not a drawer full of handles.
JMHO
BillV

A concave grind does not 'save' metal, but it does make touchup honing quicker(the metal has already been consumed).

I have the Oneway gouge and handle, and I like them both. You may want to consider buying the double ended gouge - you can either keep the same grind on both ends and increase the time between sharpenings, or put different grinds on each end for different uses.

I think that the Oneway shape is parabolic instead of U shaped, and you can probably get quite an argument going on V vs U vs parabolic gouge flutes. Everyone will have their own opinion.

You might want to check out http://thompsonlathetools.com/ for gouges, as well. I prefer the Oneway handles to the Thompson handles because they are warmer to hold in a cold shop. The Thompson handles have the advantage of not rolling, though.


Mike

Mike907 wrote:I have the Oneway gouge and handle, and I like them both. You may want to consider buying the double ended gouge - you can either keep the same grind on both ends and increase the time between sharpenings, or put different grinds on each end for different uses.

I think that the Oneway shape is parabolic instead of U shaped, and you can probably get quite an argument going on V vs U vs parabolic gouge flutes. Everyone will have their own opinion.

You might want to check out http://thompsonlathetools.com/ for gouges, as well. I prefer the Oneway handles to the Thompson handles because they are warmer to hold in a cold shop. The Thompson handles have the advantage of not rolling, though.


Mike

First, I am not a turner. Yet!

It seems to me reading all the posts that you can get an "argument" going with whoever made the lathe tool. All have their favorites and all say they are the best for what ever.

JPG
You are correct but the concave bevel once established, only requires honing to re-establish a sharp edge. It is possible to reduce actual grinding to a minimum and less grinding does in fact save metal.
Bill V

JSBurger et al

When I post about lathe tools and such I am trying to save people some money. When I first started turning I had no mentor or club near me to learn from so I was on my own. I tried shaping lathe chisels freehand but that proved frustrating. (long learning curve)I then tried the Shopsmith system the one that used the sanding disc and that was not good because I had to break down the lathe project in order sharpen.
I then tried the Tormek clone from Grizzly and that one was too slow and a 2000 grit wheel was not needed. I finally settled on the Rikon $99.00 grinder with the aluminum oxide wheels and the Oneway Wolverine system. The last setup is the one I would recommend to anyone setting up a grinding station for lathe work. The Rikon grinder is also a 1725 RPM speed to keep the heat down.
See how much money I can save some people. :-)
Bill V
PS My favorite lathe chisel when turning pens is a 1" roughing gouge

I was taught to sharpen gouges this way years ago ,was taught the only time ya need to grind on a chisel is if ya have a knick or chip or want to make a specialty tool.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-Dy7R8xQBM

Paul does a great job of teaching things the way they use to be done.

Thanks for the responses I definitely need work on sharpening and am hopeful I can hone more than using a grinder or disc to sharpen the gouge. I am not sure about sending that much money and will probably practice on my lower quality craftsman chisels before going to the better shopsmith ones or purchasing the one way chisel. I will probably have more questions as I progress. Thanks Laeey