Shopsmith Forums

I have an original 10ER. Usually it starts normally. Other times I have to toggle the on/off switch many times. It starts to run maybe 1/2 revolution then then stops, flick the switch and the same thing happens. Other times it may run 5 or so seconds then stops. Other times it won't turn on at all. Does this sounds like motor problems or the starter switch? It probably has the original motor on it.

Any suggestions?

Beau Schless
bschless@rascox.com

bschless wrote:I have an original 10ER. Usually it starts normally. Other times I have to toggle the on/off switch many times. It starts to run maybe 1/2 revolution then then stops, flick the switch and the same thing happens. Other times it may run 5 or so seconds then stops. Other times it won't turn on at all. Does this sounds like motor problems or the starter switch? It probably has the original motor on it.

Any suggestions?

Beau Schless
bschless@rascox.com

Clean the centrifugal start switch. It should be closed on start up and is probably not making good contact. The motor itself is pretty bullet proof so if it has been fine I would suspect the start switch.

Darn, I just hate it when something goes wrong on one of them with original stuff on them.60+ year old stuff, and some original equipment goes to poop!!!
Heck a 2K refig nowdays has a live of 8-12 years.
Where is Skou when you need him????
Now being serious, I would start with the start switch, a new on is just a few $, and if you can get some new wiring from it to the motor, and then from it all new wiring. What I did on mine, was bought a 15ft 14ga extension cord and about 3ft of bulk 14g 3 insulated off of the bulk roll at the local hardware store.
Cut of the female end of the extension cord and rewired all with a new on/off toggle switch.
I would go that way first, all 3 of mine, and my nephews one is redone that way with the original motors untouched.
Trick, work on it in the drill press mode with the power head a bit lower, motor removed and tie a string on the external part of the switch, then disconnect it from the head stock, lower it out, rewire all, tie the string on to the new switch and pull the string back up through the hole in the head stock, and remount it.

If you have an air compressor blow out the motor. When off the ER, hot wire it directly, and just plug it in and see if it runs normally, if not then it is the motor.

I would start with the on/off toggle switch. Low cost, easy to change and a likely suspect.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:I would start with the on/off toggle switch. Low cost, easy to change and a likely suspect.
Bill V

Amen!


Also new cord as Erlover suggested.