Shopsmith Forums

It has been a while since I have been on here let alone a while since I had my Shopsmith running but I cannot figure out why I am getting an uneven jointed edge. I have checked the jointer faces and blades and all are true and even yet when I make a pass across the jointer, I end up with low spots and high spots. Looking for any insight as to what I am be doing wrong.

How much material are you trying to take off at a time? I have found the less material the smoother the edge. Also, in what plane are you have a problem with. Are you getting highs and lows in the edge, or an edge not 90 degrees to the perpendicular.

Just the first questions LOL

greasemonkey2275 wrote:It has been a while since I have been on here let alone a while since I had my Shopsmith running but I cannot figure out why I am getting an uneven jointed edge. I have checked the jointer faces and blades and all are true and even yet when I make a pass across the jointer, I end up with low spots and high spots. Looking for any insight as to what I am be doing wrong.

When you say "low spots and high spots", are you referring to a ripple effect?

rjent wrote:How much material are you trying to take off at a time? I have found the less material the smoother the edge. Also, in what plane are you have a problem with. Are you getting highs and lows in the edge, or an edge not 90 degrees to the perpendicular.

Just the first questions LOL

I am removing about 3/32" per pass and tried 1/16" and still had the same problem. I am trying to establish a flat edge on several pieces of resawn walnut; each piece is no more than 28" long.

Dansmith wrote:When you say "low spots and high spots", are you referring to a ripple effect?

Not the ripple effect; the ends of the board are low and the center is high over a 28" pass.

Try cranking it down (up) to a 1/64 th or so and see what happens. How are you feeding the stock (pad, push sticks, ??), and are you using the featherboard.

Some pictures of the machine and the stock would help ...

If the blades in the cutter head do not all rise above the table surface by the same amount you will get a ripple effect as each blade cuts to its own depth.

Make certain that the blades are properly adjusted (same depth of cut).

Just curious, what method do you use to adjust the blades?

rjent wrote:Try cranking it down (up) to a 1/64 th or so and see what happens. How are you feeding the stock (pad, push sticks, ??), and are you using the featherboard.

Some pictures of the machine and the stock would help ...

I tried cranking it both up and down 1/64" and nothing seemed to help.

dusty wrote:If the blades in the cutter head do not all rise above the table surface by the same amount you will get a ripple effect as each blade cuts to its own depth.

Make certain that the blades are properly adjusted (same depth of cut).

Just curious, what method do you use to adjust the blades?

I am not having a ripple issue; the blades were adjusted per one of the forum posts.

You are not keeping the just planed edge tight to the OUT feed table.(assumes the blade height coincides with the outfeed table height). Once there is sufficient 'new' surface to assure alignment to the outfeed table, NO downward pressure should be exerted towards the infeed table.

Also the tables need to be 'coplaner'. Raise the infeed table until it is the same height as the outfeed table. A straight edge should touch all points on both tables regardless of it's position. The blades should 'just touch' that straight edge at their highest point.

When a workpiece is initially held tight to the IN feed table, the freshly cut end of the workpiece should just barely clear the leading edge of the OUT feed table and not rise above the OUT feed table as the workpiece moves forward. Once downward pressure is being applied to the OUT feed end, the trailing edge may properly ride above the IN feed table. If the workpiece is then forced down tight to the IN feed table the rocking chair rocker bottom effect will take place.