Shopsmith Forums

It has been a couple of years now that I have not managed to get my 10ER back together or for that matter to even finish the paint job. I hope to change that this year.

Since the subject came up recently I dug the speed changer out to have a look at it. I wasn't even sure what I had anymore.

This is it:
There is of course the speed changer then an old set of belts, a new set of belts, a bearing, and the mounting set screw with nut. I assume the bearing goes on the shaft where the knurled nut is but I'm unsure of what advantage that gives if any.

Also looking at the casting, and forgive me I'm pretty new to the speed changer but it looks like the casting marks could be an issue if the nut is too large???
I also now understand how the set screw works, it has a allen head to tighten in place......
So from feel everything feels fine. I can crank the crank from zero to five to zero, I will still clean the threads and re-lube. The pulley slides easy and I can feel no play in the bushings. I plan to clean and lube that as well.

Anything else I should be aware of to check or to worry about? For now it looks like a simple clean, paint and lube job.

Ed

reible wrote:It has been a couple of years now that I have not managed to get my 10ER back together or for that matter to even finish the paint job. I hope to change that this year.

Since the subject came up recently I dug the speed changer out to have a look at it. I wasn't even sure what I had anymore.

This is it:

20170526_121914_resized.jpg

There is of course the speed changer then an old set of belts, a new set of belts, a bearing, and the mounting set screw with nut. I assume the bearing goes on the shaft where the knurled nut is but I'm unsure of what advantage that gives if any.

Also looking at the casting, and forgive me I'm pretty new to the speed changer but it looks like the casting marks could be an issue if the nut is too large???

20170526_122304_resized.jpg

I also now understand how the set screw works, it has a allen head to tighten in place......

20170526_122318_resized.jpg

So from feel everything feels fine. I can crank the crank from zero to five to zero, I will still clean the threads and re-lube. The pulley slides easy and I can feel no play in the bushings. I plan to clean and lube that as well.

Anything else I should be aware of to check or to worry about? For now it looks like a simple clean, paint and lube job.

Ed

First, that is a nice looking speed changer!

That is a really neat bearing. It is needed and it is not OEM. The issue is that the length of the sliding sheave shaft from the outside of the bronze bushing flanges must be less than the length of the arm shaft from the bearing surface near the arm to the shoulder where the nut screws on. In other words the nut must bottom on the shaft shoulder. I am sure you know all that. Just stating it for completeness.

The bushings are not available off the shelf. They have to be machined from new bushings of a different size. Skip Campbell and Tom Houser have them for sale. I bought 3 sets a while ago because I have 5 speed changers. I wanted to be prepared. Two from Tom and one from Skip. I used one of the sets and when I fired up the machine the knurled nut spun tight against the bushings and stopped the sheave from turning. Turns out the bushing flanges were a few thou to thick. A quick touch on the disk sander fixed it.

Just an aside, back to the bearing. If/when the the sheave assembly rides out against the nut it is bronze on steel. The same as the bushings on the shaft. No reason for the bearing.

The casting marks are not a problem. The limiting factor is the flange on the bottom of the main casting. A 1" diameter nut is about max. That is what is in the picture. Anything bigger will hit the flange before the casting marks.

reible wrote:It has been a couple of years now that I have not managed to get my 10ER back together or for that matter to even finish the paint job. I hope to change that this year.

Since the subject came up recently I dug the speed changer out to have a look at it.

There is of course the speed changer then an old set of belts, a new set of belts, a bearing, and the mounting set screw with nut. I assume the bearing goes on the shaft where the knurled nut is but I'm unsure of what advantage that gives if any.

Also looking at the casting, and forgive me I'm pretty new to the speed changer but it looks like the casting marks could be an issue if the nut is too large???

I also now understand how the set screw works, it has a allen head to tighten in place......

So from feel everything feels fine. I can crank the crank from zero to five to zero, I will still clean the threads and re-lube. The pulley slides easy and I can feel no play in the bushings. I plan to clean and lube that as well.

Anything else I should be aware of to check or to worry about? For now it looks like a simple clean, paint and lube job.

Ed

The knurled nut on the sheave shaft tightens against a step on the end of the shaft. The sheave assembly floats on the shaft between the knurled nut and a boss on the arm at the other end and the ends of the bushings act as thrust bearings. I don't think that the roller thrust bearing would work well unless the ends of the bushings were machined to provide clearance and I don't see any advantage to using it.
Side note, there are two versions of the knurled sheave nuts, chamfered on one side and chamfered on both sides.

Re a large nut. I tried a large flat washer (1/2" i.d. x 1 1/8" o.d.) and it fit flat but the hole was not centered on the set-screw. Then I replaced it with a 3/8" i.d. washer, the washer is the same thickness as the height of the raised letters/numbers so whatever size knob is used (within reason), it will clear.

I can't think of anything else at the moment,

ps. I see John beat me to the punch but will post anyway.

Perhaps Steve (Skou), or Michael (ERlover) will chime in too, they have been very quiet of late.

rpd wrote:

reible wrote:It has been a couple of years now that I have not managed to get my 10ER back together or for that matter to even finish the paint job. I hope to change that this year.

Since the subject came up recently I dug the speed changer out to have a look at it.

There is of course the speed changer then an old set of belts, a new set of belts, a bearing, and the mounting set screw with nut. I assume the bearing goes on the shaft where the knurled nut is but I'm unsure of what advantage that gives if any.

Also looking at the casting, and forgive me I'm pretty new to the speed changer but it looks like the casting marks could be an issue if the nut is too large???

I also now understand how the set screw works, it has a allen head to tighten in place......

So from feel everything feels fine. I can crank the crank from zero to five to zero, I will still clean the threads and re-lube. The pulley slides easy and I can feel no play in the bushings. I plan to clean and lube that as well.

Anything else I should be aware of to check or to worry about? For now it looks like a simple clean, paint and lube job.

Ed

The knurled nut on the sheave shaft tightens against a step on the end of the shaft. The sheave assembly floats on the shaft between the knurled nut and a boss on the arm at the other end and the ends of the bushings act as thrust bearings. I don't think that the roller thrust bearing would work well unless the ends of the bushings were machined to provide clearance and I don't see any advantage to using it.

SCshaftandknurlednuts.JPG

Side note, there are two versions of the knurled sheave nuts, chamfered on one side and chamfered on both sides.

Re a large nut. I tried a large flat washer (1/2" i.d. x 1 1/8" o.d.) and it fit flat but the hole was not centered on the set-screw. Then I replaced it with a 3/8" i.d. washer, the washer is the same thickness as the height of the raised letters/numbers so whatever size knob is used (within reason), it will clear.

I can't think of anything else at the moment,

ps. I see John beat me to the punch but will post anyway.

Perhaps Steve (Skou), or Michael (ERlover) will chime in too, they have been very quiet of late.

OK, since I was called out, ( ) I'll state
what I've found.

You CAN run the speed changer WITHOUT
either nut. Only caveat, is make sure the
speed changer goes with you, when you
slide to the right. To the left, no problem!

Right now, I have no Shopsmith to try this on,
but I will be at Sterling's house tomorrow,
so I can re-verify. (Sterling is Skouson here.)

steve

skou wrote:

rpd wrote:

reible wrote:It has been a couple of years now that I have not managed to get my 10ER back together or for that matter to even finish the paint job. I hope to change that this year.

Since the subject came up recently I dug the speed changer out to have a look at it.

There is of course the speed changer then an old set of belts, a new set of belts, a bearing, and the mounting set screw with nut. I assume the bearing goes on the shaft where the knurled nut is but I'm unsure of what advantage that gives if any.

Also looking at the casting, and forgive me I'm pretty new to the speed changer but it looks like the casting marks could be an issue if the nut is too large???

I also now understand how the set screw works, it has a allen head to tighten in place......

So from feel everything feels fine. I can crank the crank from zero to five to zero, I will still clean the threads and re-lube. The pulley slides easy and I can feel no play in the bushings. I plan to clean and lube that as well.

Anything else I should be aware of to check or to worry about? For now it looks like a simple clean, paint and lube job.

Ed

The knurled nut on the sheave shaft tightens against a step on the end of the shaft. The sheave assembly floats on the shaft between the knurled nut and a boss on the arm at the other end and the ends of the bushings act as thrust bearings. I don't think that the roller thrust bearing would work well unless the ends of the bushings were machined to provide clearance and I don't see any advantage to using it.

SCshaftandknurlednuts.JPG

Side note, there are two versions of the knurled sheave nuts, chamfered on one side and chamfered on both sides.

Re a large nut. I tried a large flat washer (1/2" i.d. x 1 1/8" o.d.) and it fit flat but the hole was not centered on the set-screw. Then I replaced it with a 3/8" i.d. washer, the washer is the same thickness as the height of the raised letters/numbers so whatever size knob is used (within reason), it will clear.

I can't think of anything else at the moment,

ps. I see John beat me to the punch but will post anyway.

Perhaps Steve (Skou), or Michael (ERlover) will chime in too, they have been very quiet of late.

OK, since I was called out, ( ) I'll state
what I've found.

You CAN run the speed changer WITHOUT
either nut. Only caveat, is make sure the
speed changer goes with you, when you
slide to the right. To the left, no problem!

Right now, I have no Shopsmith to try this on,
but I will be at Sterling's house tomorrow,
so I can re-verify. (Sterling is Skouson here.)

steve

WRONG, Sterling is "Sterling" here.

steve

Here, and most everywhere else.

The speed changer on this 10er that I just brought home has the nut on the wrong side. The speed changer hits the nut, keeping it from going up against the head stock.
Don't know if the v-belts are original, I can make out Gates Truflex 22?? on the larger belt. Does anyone have the correct belt numbers?..Thanks in advance..Joe

http://mkctools.com/10erparts.htm

Scroll down to the belts for the speed changer. That's the easiest way to get what you need and be sure and check out his other stuff.

Ed

Considering the condition of the way tubes, I would not attempt to move the headstock with the speed changer attached to the headstock period.

JPG is correct!

Loosen up the headrest knob, lift up the
way tubes, and put a block of wood under
the motor to hold the left end a few inches
up.

Remove the tiebar, and remove the speedchanger.

Now, GENTLY, clean off enough rust to remove the
headstock. Before actually removing the headstock,
find another way to support the left end. (A block under
the carriage will work, if the carriage is as far to the
left as it will go, and the headstock is, too.

Work on getting the headstock to move, as well as
the carriage, before trying to remove either.

The way tubes are an important piece of getting
the Shopsmith aligned, so try not to change the
diameter.

(The Model 10 is a precision tool, or Shopsmith wouldn't
be using them STILL to make the Mark series.) Not all
that bad, for a 70 year old machine!

steve