What Horsepower?

[hfmann]

With all the talk about higher horsepower motors, I'm anxious to know what I've got. How do I tell?

Thanks,
Hal

[Nick]

Hal, remove the Shopsmith medalion thingy from the side of the headstock opposite the speed dial. Peer inside and look down -- the motor is in the bottom of the headstock. The label should be turned up and the horsepower information is on that label. But just to make your search fun and exciting, it's on the portion of the label that curves away from you and it's printed fairly small. You will need a flashlight, the eyes of an eagle, and the patience of a saint. Fiber optics are optional, but handy.

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There's an easier way, but it's not as certain. The 1-1/8 HP motor was introduced in 1962; Shopsmiths manufactured prior to that date had 3/4 HP motors. Check the serial number of your machine. If it's a six-digit number 373422 or less and the headstock is painted a color other than gray, it was made before January 1962.

With all good wishes,

[paulmcohen]

Does anyone make a higher horsepower motor that is a direct replacement?

[hfmann]

Well you made that easy Nick.

I bought my Mark V in 1988 direct from the factory. So I'm in clover!

Thanks
Hal

[Unregistered]

Paul, I'm told that we looked into higher horsepower motor many years ago, but found that at the speed the motor must run (1725 rpm), higher horsepower would require more windings and therefore a large motor. It's pretty cramped in the motor pan as it is, so we never pursued the matter. A horswe and an eighth seems to be adequate for all the woodworking operations that the Shopsmith is designed to perform, and the longetivity of these motors even in environments like schools where they are used almost daily would seem to bear this out.

With all good wishes,

[paulmcohen]

Given the 30 years I have had mine I agree with the longevity statement, I just got an Infinity Tools Dadonator8" stacked dado that is very heavy (8.5 lbs) and so far works well on softwoods, not sure what will happen when I use it on Maple or Teak.

Is there a reccommended max weight you can hand on the motor without damage?

[Nick]

Paul, the unregistered guy above is me. Shopsmith's computer has an evil sense of humor and does that to me every now and then. I don't know about max weight, but I've turned a 6-inch-diameter, 8-foot-long porch post on my Shopsmith with no problem...I should say, no more than the usual problems. (Don't ask me to show you guys how I turned an 8-foot piece on a machine with a 4-foot capacity. As Lord High Executioner here at the Academy, I'm supposed to be the model of safety and a paragon of common sense. I turned the post back in my reckless youth, about three years ago.)

With all good wishes,

[paulmcohen]

Can I guess, did you use a second Shopsmith to hold the tailstock? Any idea what the post weighted (more then 8.5 lbs).

[paulmcohen]

Can I guess, did you use a second Shopsmith to hold the tailstock? Any idea what the post weighted (more then 8.5 lbs).

[Greenvilleguy]

Interesting that this came up today. I was in the shop this afternoon building a 4 post bureau with turned feet on the posts. The post were to be 33 3/4" long and I discovered that wouldn't fit. Even though the manual says the SS has a 34" capacity, that includes the spur and live center.

I just modified the design slightly and went on, but I'm still wondering if I could have moved the tailstock to the left side and used the left motor spindle. This might have given me the extra inch I needed since there isn't any quill sticking out on the left.

For a brief moment, I even considered drilling a hole in a wall stud to hold the morse taper live center in place of the tail stock. On a 8' post like the one Nick described, it would be a possible solution. After all, what purpose does the tailstock serve other than hold the live center and to maintain a constant distance from the headstock? Of course, you would want to secure the SS to the wall somehow to prevent it from sliding away.