Today in the Shop "sawdust videos and I mean that"

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reible
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Today in the Shop "sawdust videos and I mean that"

Post by reible »

I was out working on another project today but since the subject of dust collection has been around for a while and people have tried various fixes, and that includes me, but what do we really know about the problems?

Where does all that saw dust come from? Well yes we know how the dust in generated but where does it exit the machine?

I shot a series of videos from various angles and will be posting them on youtube. It will be a show process as I'm also doing other things so I get one started and then do some things and when I get back I'll start another etc.

By looking at the video it should be clear where fixes are going to help. I removed my upgrades so this is a stock 520 lower guard. The upper guard has a plug in the vacuum port for most of the videos but I do remove it and add a hose. This is something I did a long while ago and I think it helps, but not a lot.

This first video is the lower guard with no dust extractor. Yea that is a lot of sawdust!

https://youtu.be/NCL5Jzml7u0

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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dusty
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Re: Today in the Shop "sawdust videos and I mean that"

Post by dusty »

Interesting, already. That is a lot of dust in just a very short time but what caught my eye is the force with which it is expelled (even without a dust collector.

I'm waiting for your other videos. It will be interesting to see which cracks and minor openings the dust escapes from. It does not all come through openings that I expected it to.

I am curious about the air flow pattern
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reible
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Re: Today in the Shop "sawdust videos and I mean that"

Post by reible »

If any of you can't wait you can check in and see what is new at:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpI78e ... bHVKNrvgyA

I'm uploading the 7th video right now and there are more coming. Have to take few minutes to eat then back to start putting stuff away.

I did made a couple of improved blocking parts that I normally have on my lower guard but they will not get tested now. Maybe tomorrow??

Ed
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reible
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Re: Today in the Shop "sawdust videos and I mean that"

Post by reible »

Just so we are all on the same page. The table insert is the shopsmith saw blade version. The dust collector is a shop vac. This is pretty much a stock set up 520 table with a powerpro headstock. I using a comb thin kerf blade for the ripping. The wood is oak, 3/4" x 17" cut into 1/8" strips.

Keep in mind thin kerf blades produce less saw dust so even changing the blade can effect the saw dust output. You may see different results then I have shown but for purposes of these discussions this is the baseline.

Ed
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dusty
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Re: Today in the Shop "sawdust videos and I mean that"

Post by dusty »

I viewed four videos and I do see some dust excaping but not near as much as I do with my stock 510 lower saw guard installed. I have made modifications to the lower saw guard that I use for most all table saw operations (non-tilt). I have very little dust below the table. I have much more above the table than I would like.

In all fairness, I must admit that I do a lot more work with MDF than most and that contributes to my dust problems. The shop is not my major concern where MDF is concerned. I worry about the headstock. If a do more than just a few cuts with MDF, I open the headstock and blow it out.
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Re: Today in the Shop "sawdust videos and I mean that"

Post by masonsailor2 »

I have very little experience with MDF. Dusty it seems you are very concerned about the effect of MDF dust on the SS internals. Is it particularly hard on the belts and motor ? I know the stuff is nasty on the lungs which is the reason I avoid it.
Paul
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dusty
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Re: Today in the Shop "sawdust videos and I mean that"

Post by dusty »

masonsailor2 wrote:I have very little experience with MDF. Dusty it seems you are very concerned about the effect of MDF dust on the SS internals. Is it particularly hard on the belts and motor ? I know the stuff is nasty on the lungs which is the reason I avoid it.
Paul
I can't say that it is hard on the belts. It is very fine (almost like talcum powder) so it is not abrasive but it gets in everywhere. When I cut MDF, I work in an open area and rely on air flow (fan driven) to move the dust/air out of the shop.

I have sortof a rule: Don't work MDF on the same day you lubricate. MDF dust and oil make a really sticky goo. Nick had as word for it which I can not remember. Aah, ackumpuckey - I think.
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Re: Today in the Shop "sawdust videos and I mean that"

Post by JPG »

Close Google akempucky and ackumpucky. Opposites!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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reible
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Re: Today in the Shop "sawdust videos and I mean that"

Post by reible »

So where to go from here.

One of the things that is quite easy to fix is the saw dust coming out of the holes shown in these two photos:
dc1.jpg
dc1.jpg (199.91 KiB) Viewed 16265 times
dc2.jpg
dc2.jpg (189.68 KiB) Viewed 16265 times
While I have a fix for this but since I'm looking at this as a new project I went ahead and made new ones. I have various pieces of sheet metal left overs and went with that as a material. Other things would work as well and maybe you will find a even better way to do this but this does work.

Each side I did differently, the front side I added a bend to keep it aligned as you will see. It all started with a layout of the sheet metal.
20170819_134923_resized.jpg
20170819_134923_resized.jpg (380.73 KiB) Viewed 16265 times
It is safer to do the drilling first since the part is larger and easier to secure. You could also punch the hole if you have that capacity.
20170819_135447_resized.jpg
20170819_135447_resized.jpg (91.88 KiB) Viewed 16265 times
Then I did the bending.
20170819_140445_resized.jpg
20170819_140445_resized.jpg (326.68 KiB) Viewed 16265 times
The with the hardware removed the guard looks like this:
20170819_140649_resized.jpg
20170819_140649_resized.jpg (345.07 KiB) Viewed 16265 times
Note that this is with the guard as wide open as possible. The sheet metal part then fits like this:
20170819_140821_resized.jpg
20170819_140821_resized.jpg (298.95 KiB) Viewed 16265 times
When the guard is as closed as possible it looks like this:
20170819_140853_resized.jpg
20170819_140853_resized.jpg (327.96 KiB) Viewed 16265 times
The other side of the guard is quite different. With the exhaust port there I went with a flat piece of sheet metal as seen here with the guard fully open:
20170819_142317_resized.jpg
20170819_142317_resized.jpg (310.21 KiB) Viewed 16265 times
With the guard fully closed it looks like this:
20170819_142349_resized.jpg
20170819_142349_resized.jpg (306.74 KiB) Viewed 16265 times
If you decide to do this take the time to round the corners and get rid of any burrs and sharp edges, no use making this a harmful solution.

One small step but like I said this does work. When I next get to a project that I can tape I will and post that too.

If someone else wants to try something different please post your solution. If you can do a video that would be helpful as well.

Ed
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