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[mountainbreeze]

And that is what the Microjig does. It takes all of the above automatically with no measuring. That is the beauty on it. It would be easy to add the third fixed post to the SS to get the same functionality. Maybe SS had a patent issue with the Microjig.

Exact fitting dados can also be set up with the Shopsmith jig without measuring, trial and error, and without the third post.

[dusty]

And that is what the Microjig does. It takes all of the above automatically with no measuring. That is the beauty on it. It would be easy to add the third fixed post to the SS to get the same functionality. Maybe SS had a patent issue with the Microjig.

Exact fitting dados can also be set up with the Shopsmith jig without measuring, trial and error, and without the third post.

I don't know how you can do that (without measuring).

If you set up using the Shopsmith procedure for the Cross-Cutter you will get a dado that is too wide by the thickness of the kerf cut by whatever saw blade is installed.

To compensate for that kerf one must tweak the set up. Easy enough to do. Just lengthen the short post by the required amount but you must somehow measure to determine what that compensation is.

Yes, 3/32" is equal to 3 turns of the set up screw. Is 3/32" what you really need??? Measure the kerf and then measure the posts. Opps, there is that word that we are trying to avoid.

Don't get me wrong. I bought a Cross-Cutter and I am pleased with it. But, it does not achieve exactly what that other jig does. Not without a little bit of tweaking.

[JPG]

Does the Micro jig allow you to move the fence over for multiple dados and keep the setting automatically as the SS does ? I think that is a major plus for the SS product. Once you have it dialed in to the desired width you can move the fence along the rail and make those dados anywhere along the piece at precisely the same width. Should work really well for mitered dados also.
Paul

The blade kerf 'setting' does not change regardless of where the microjig is moved to(even if totally removed from the fence ).

[dusty]

Does the Micro jig allow you to move the fence over for multiple dados and keep the setting automatically as the SS does ? I think that is a major plus for the SS product. Once you have it dialed in to the desired width you can move the fence along the rail and make those dados anywhere along the piece at precisely the same width. Should work really well for mitered dados also.
Paul

The blade kerf 'setting' does not change regardless of where the microjig is moved to(even if totally removed from the fence ).

I don't think that was being implied. If you set the Cross-Cutter per instructions the width of the resulting dado will not be what you want. The Micro-Jig (as John so well stated) compensates the Cross-Cutter does not..

[mountainbreeze]

I don't know how you can do that (without measuring).

Here is the method I figured out which works well (I have a 520 fence):

1. Clamp a piece of scrap wood to the miter gage and cut it off. Leave it clamped to the miter gage.
2. Clamp the fence in place, slide the jig next to the saw blade and tighten it to the fence so that the long bolt can be adjusted to the point where it just touches one of the cutting teeth. Tighten the locking nut for the long bolt. If you have the sliding scale for the fence, now is the time to set zero inches as this will be the distance from the end of the stock to the near shoulder of the dado.
3. Slide the jig back to the operating position and tighten it to the fence.
4. Slide the miter gage so that the cut-off end of the scrap block is in line with the shorter bolt.
5. Using the piece that is to fit into the dado (or a scrap piece of equal width), place it next to the scrap that is clamped to the miter gage.
6. Adjust the shorter bolt until it just touches the piece that is to fit in the dado. Tighten the locking nut for the short bolt.
7. Adjust the fence to set the distance from the long bolt to the near shoulder of the dado.
8. Set the depth of cut, make one cut based off of the short bolt and another base off of the long bolt. Nibble away any remaining material in-between.

[JPG]

Does the Micro jig allow you to move the fence over for multiple dados and keep the setting automatically as the SS does ? I think that is a major plus for the SS product. Once you have it dialed in to the desired width you can move the fence along the rail and make those dados anywhere along the piece at precisely the same width. Should work really well for mitered dados also.
Paul

The blade kerf 'setting' does not change regardless of where the microjig is moved to(even if totally removed from the fence ).

I don't think that was being implied. If you set the Cross-Cutter per instructions the width of the resulting dado will not be what you want. The Micro-Jig (as John so well stated) compensates the Cross-Cutter does not..

I do not 'see' how moving the fence along the rail affects either jig.

[JPG]

I don't know how you can do that (without measuring).

Here is the method I figured out which works well (I have a 520 fence):

1. Clamp a piece of scrap wood to the miter gage and cut it off. Leave it clamped to the miter gage.
2. Clamp the fence in place, slide the jig next to the saw blade and tighten it to the fence so that the long bolt can be adjusted to the point where it just touches one of the cutting teeth. Tighten the locking nut for the long bolt. If you have the sliding scale for the fence, now is the time to set zero inches as this will be the distance from the end of the stock to the near shoulder of the dado.
3. Slide the jig back to the operating position and tighten it to the fence.
4. Slide the miter gage so that the cut-off end of the scrap block is in line with the shorter bolt.
5. Using the piece that is to fit into the dado (or a scrap piece of equal width), place it next to the scrap that is clamped to the miter gage.
6. Adjust the shorter bolt until it just touches the piece that is to fit in the dado. Tighten the locking nut for the short bolt.
7. Adjust the fence to set the distance from the long bolt to the near shoulder of the dado.
8. Set the depth of cut, make one cut based off of the short bolt and another base off of the long bolt. Nibble away any remaining material in-between.

Perhaps trial and error is simpler and quicker?

[mountainbreeze]

Is reads more complicated than it actually is. Maybe you will like this version better...

1. Clamp a piece of scrap wood to the miter gage and cut it off.
2. Slide the jig next to the saw blade and adjust the long bolt so that it just touches the cutting teeth.
3. Slide the jig back to the operating position.
4. Place the piece that is to fit into the dado next to the scrap piece in the miter gage and adjust the shorter bolt until it just touches it.

[dusty]

I don't know how you can do that (without measuring).

Here is the method I figured out which works well (I have a 520 fence):

1. Clamp a piece of scrap wood to the miter gage and cut it off. Leave it clamped to the miter gage.
2. Clamp the fence in place, slide the jig next to the saw blade and tighten it to the fence so that the long bolt can be adjusted to the point where it just touches one of the cutting teeth. Tighten the locking nut for the long bolt. If you have the sliding scale for the fence, now is the time to set zero inches as this will be the distance from the end of the stock to the near shoulder of the dado.
3. Slide the jig back to the operating position and tighten it to the fence.
4. Slide the miter gage so that the cut-off end of the scrap block is in line with the shorter bolt.
5. Using the piece that is to fit into the dado (or a scrap piece of equal width), place it next to the scrap that is clamped to the miter gage.
6. Adjust the shorter bolt until it just touches the piece that is to fit in the dado. Tighten the locking nut for the short bolt.
7. Adjust the fence to set the distance from the long bolt to the near shoulder of the dado.
8. Set the depth of cut, make one cut based off of the short bolt and another base off of the long bolt. Nibble away any remaining material in-between.

The two stops now differ in length by the thickness of the work piece. The thickness of the blade is not taken into consideration.

PLEASE, correct me if I am wrong. Even if it means "Read the instructions, stupid"!

[mountainbreeze]

This method does indeed take the kerf into account. Try it, you'll like it.