Shopsmith Forums

I recently got a 1954 mark V greenie that sat in my dads garage for years. It needs work...after taking it apart it needs a new idler assembly and sheaves (one thats on it is cracked), the retainer clip that holds the eccentric bushing to tension the belts is gone, and I need arbors and a quill but can get them off of eBay. the things I need help finding are the idler assembly (both sheaves really as I can find the shaft on eBay with new bearings) and the eccentric bushing retainer problem. My understanding is the the old ones like I have used a bolt and metal clips to hold the bushing from moving in the housing. the new style just use a bolt and washer on top and then the bold that pinches the ears of the case. can I just go with the bolt that pinches and add a bolt with a washer to hold it on top or do I need to find the clips? thanks for any help and if anyone has a bunch of greenie gilmer drive parts let me know. oh and also it needs to have the speed control knob fixed/replaced...there is a guy in cali that repairs them with a steel gear instead of the aluminum so think that is the way I was going to go for that. thanks for any help. I have attached photos for reference.
-Seth

The guy in Cal does excellent work. I would prefer one rebuilt by him to a new one.

The current Mark V control sheave is interchangeable with the greenie Mark 5 control sheave.

The idler sheave is unique to the Gilmer drive.

A screw may be carefully added at 12 o'clock to prevent the eccentric from slipping out. I would use a small screw with a large washer(not much material for drilling/tapping).

BTW a Greenie is a Mark 5.

Is the idler shaft bearing toast? If not reuse it.

Do not over look the set screw on the bottom of the eccentric. Cone tip and only snugged into a groove in the bearing.

Jacob Anderson may have some Gilmer parts for you.

Check him out at https://jacobs-repairshop.com/

He also has water pump style idler shafts with bearings available and he really does not like the the newer style they changed to in 2010 that required a new eccentric. See https://jacobs-repair-shop.myshopify.co ... dler-shaft

He also has about 30 free YouTube videos to help get you grounded on what needs attention.

Just a heads up. I extracted a screen shot from a section of a page I am working on documenting Shopsmith Bearings. Be careful with the bolt that goes through the headstock ears that tension the eccentric on yours. See
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 69#p239169 See photo.

You may like to download the bearing file which is a work in process that's ongoing, and download the Buying a Used Shopsmith PDF from My Google Drive. See http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 90#p185690

Everett Bill Mayo was also fond of putting a compression lock washer under the bolt. Tightening it to the point the washer flattened was tight enough, no more or you risk breaking off one of the ears, requiring a new headstock housing. - Ev -

ok cool so the control is the one that is toast so I'll order a replacement. And I didn't know if adding the screw for the eccentric at the 12 o'clock position would require a new bushing. the one that is in there seems to be fine was just wondering. And since the machine is older than my father I was planning on replacing all of the bearings. thanks for the input.

@Everettdavis I actually already downloaded your files from the google drive right after my initial post and I have also watched the headstock teardown videos from Jacob on youtube. He is how I figured out how to tear it apart I also emailed him asking if he had gilmer parts. thanks for the input and I hope to have this thing up and running asap. really want to use the lathe.

SethJGibbons wrote:ok cool so the control is the one that is toast so I'll order a replacement. And I didn't know if adding the screw for the eccentric at the 12 o'clock position would require a new bushing. the one that is in there seems to be fine was just wondering. And since the machine is older than my father I was planning on replacing all of the bearings. thanks for the input.

When I referred to 12 0'clock hole tapped, I was referring to the headstock casting, not the eccentric. Later(B,C) headstocks have greater width at that location for a tapped hole.