Shopsmith Forums

I went to put my speed changer on my ShopSmith 10ER over the weekend and I ran into a bit of an issue.

The lock nut on the end holding the pulley drive in place screws itself on tighter when the machine is running and it butts up against the pulley causing friction. The lock nut gets very hot in a short amount of time so I'm sure this isn't how it's supposed to work.

Am I missing a piece that should keep the pully drive separate from the lock nut? Is there an exploded view of the speed changer somewhere? I couldn't find one. I want to see if I have everything on it.

dzawacki wrote:I went to put my speed changer on my ShopSmith 10ER over the weekend and I ran into a bit of an issue.

The lock nut on the end holding the pulley drive in place screws itself on tighter when the machine is running and it butts up against the pulley causing friction. The lock nut gets very hot in a short amount of time so I'm sure this isn't how it's supposed to work.

Am I missing a piece that should keep the pulley drive separate from the lock nut? Is there an exploded view of the speed changer somewhere? I couldn't find one. I want to see if I have everything on it.

That knurled nut should tighten against the shoulder on the shaft. The outer sheaves are held on the sleeve that runs on the shaft by set screws, the center sheave floats between them. If the ends of the bushings are binding on the nut then something is out of adjustment, possibly the pulleys on the motor and headstock are not positioned so that the belts are aligned properly.

Here is a link to a thread documenting the disassembly and repair of a 10er speed changer that I did last spring.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maint ... 19855.html

Here is a link to how to setup the speed changer. http://mkctools.com/speed%20changer%20setup.htm

Here is a link to the original manual for the speed changer. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2714

A picture of your setup would help us to diagnose what the problem is.

Thanks Ron. Your thread on disassembly and repair might prove to be the most helpful. I learned a lot from the great photos and the teardown you did. Now it carve out some time to tackle mine.

Ron, that was a great thread of yours on your speed changer. Never seen that one, at least not that I recall.

How is the "weld" holding up?

Dansmith wrote:Ron, that was a great thread of yours on your speed changer. Never seen that one, at least not that I recall.

How is the "weld" holding up?

I haven't actually used it yet, It will be going on 10er #3 and I have not got that one put back together yet.

Hi Everyone,
New to this forum and new to the shopsmith 10ER. I had the same issue when I tightened the nut of the speed change it would seize in high speed. When I got looking at the new bearing I installed I had not seated them all the way onto the shaft. Once they were full seated my issues went away. I also followed the advice from Skip at MKCtools adding washers and pulley adjustments.

happy turning!
Jed

Proper setup and alignment is key to having a well running speed changer. Aligning the pulley will reduce wear in the bearings. I restored one that the alignment was off causing the floating pulley assembly to push against the pulley arm wearing down the "shoulder" of the bearing to almost nothing. There is a fixed amount of space on the shaft of the pulley arm and if the bearings are replaced and not seated properly the shaft knob will press against it causing friction. Also the outside halves of the floating pulley should not extend beyond the length of the shaft. If this is happening the belts are too wide.

I am happy to see the Speed Changer Chart getting downloaded. It's a reproduction I made so I could include it with my restored Model 10's when I sell them.
Some of you may find this Speed Chart helpful. It is similar to the one for the Mark V but using the Model 10 pulley and speed changer speeds for basic operations.