Shopsmith Forums

I'm pricing out my "buy-in" on pen turning supplies and I'm looking at CA glue. There's "finishing" glue, "adhesive" glue, "gap filling" glue in various thicknesses... is there really a difference? Differing thicknesses makes sense to me, but otherwise...?

What should I get to start out with as a beginner?

I personally don't care for the smell of CA glues. I only use them when I have to and never for finishing. I might be the out layer here and everywhere on this but I think it best for you to get some thin, some blue shop towels and give it a go before stocking up. Most of mine times out before I use it up.

Ed

Right or wrong, I have always used the thin consistency CA glue ("Hot Stuff" "Original") only to glue the tubes inside the wood.

As a beginner, I would just use a blister-pack of the "one time use" small tubes of CA glue. Then see if you like it.

I always hated CA glue smell, so I only use it for emergency repairs.

For years my go-to finish was Shellawax, but that too is very aromatic in a bad way. Now I use Dr's Woodshop Pens Plus shellac blend. The key is to rub that good and hot, to get a good bond.

Chris

Basically it boils down to viscosity (How thick the glues is)
The Gap filling/Gel and many other Marketing names are actually medium or thick. Keep in mind that the thicker it is the longer it takes to set/cure.

The smell does not bother me personally. It does have an odor though, especially when finishing and heat from friction or a catalyst like BLO is setting it off. It can get hot too especially when used with BLO.

I use thin CA for finishing pens and other small turnings that receive a lot of touch. Thin because it sets faster. You can use medium or gel, you just have to be patient between layering. Layer count is irrelevant as CA does not Coat like Paint; each layer applied bonds with the previous application and the result is a single layer ore applications mean thicker coating, thicker coating can mean more depth, if the right polishing is done.

CA is arguably the longest lasting most durable finish there is for pens.

I also use thin to glue the tubes in. (Unless I goofed the drilling and there is some extra space , then i'll use Medium/Gel/Gap filling.)

I personally have no need for thick CA, I switch to epoxy if I need to bond disparate materials with a gap to fill. Epoxy has a good work time and strength, and is less brittle than CA.

Just my .02

Those of you who don't like CA as a finish on pens, what do you like? I've only made one pen and it was under the guidance and instruction of someone else. We used CA and I was pretty happy with the results. Smooth, shiny, and very durable.

Heath,

In my limited use, I used medium for gluing the tubes inside the blanks. My one attempt at CA finishing confirmed that my nose and eyes can't handle the intense fumes given off. If you're fine with it, you might want to Google CA and boiled linseed oil finishes for pens as another option; I believe that alternates the two, giving a bit more grain 'pop' that CA by itself may not provide.

For the vast majority of the pens I've done (perhaps 3-4 dozen), I've used a friction polish, I think Mylands brand but wouldn't swear to it. It gives a nice feeling, low sheen finish but isn't going to be as durable as a hard shell finish. I personally like this softer, more natural feeling and appearing finish for wood pens. A bottle is pricey, but lasts a long time, at least until a squirrel eats into the bottle. I've carried two different pens daily (work days) for several years each and haven't noticed the finish wearing to bare wood.

A nice friction polish I just started using is "O.B.s Shine Juice" Look for it on Cap'n Eddie's videos or google "O.B.s shine juice".

1 part BLO
1 part Denatured Alcohol (DNA)
1 part Zinser Bullseye shellac (2 pound cut I think?)

store in airtight container, mix thoroughly before use. if storing for a protracted time. mark the level when storing and return to level with DNA if it is showing below level. The DNA evaporates very quickly.

Remove sanding dust with a paper towel dipped in DNA it flashes off very quickly and any left over will mix in with the finishing solution.

I apply with a paper towel as the project is turning apply some pressure to increase the heat and set off the BLO and shellac until dry and shiny.

the BLO makes the grain pop and the shellac gives a decent shine.

Additional shine can be had by applying your preferred finishing wax.

Not as durable as the CA finish but more forgiving and relatively easy to repair if required.

Fixing a bad or abused CA finish on a completed pen is difficult at best.