Shopsmith Forums

I am in the midst of refurbishing my 1956 Greenie and I am down to the main table and the extension table. The main table will not tilt in either direction unless I take it off, put it on the floor, hold it down with my feet and then push with both hands. I have tried using some penetrating oil to loosen it up, but that does not seem to be working. Does anyone have some other ideas? Thanks.

Start in MickyD's Greenie Restoration thread here https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 634#p31634

He did an exceptional job restoring his greenie, and indexed the process in this post.

I use 50 /50 mix of acetone (flamable) and ATF automatic transmission fluid to penetrate rust.

I use Marvel Mystery Oil to work on aluminum seizures. Never mixed any with Acetone before.

The acetone is a diluent (thins the viscosity) allowing it to penetrate, then evaporates leaving the oil to work its magic.

I would drizzle Marvel Mystery Oil on it after you have used the penetrating mix.

Well ventilated and no flames near it as it is very flammable if acetone is in the mix.

Mix maybe a tablespoon of each and mix. It doesn't take a lot.

Everett

This may appear to be stupid question but have you tried loosening the trunion lock?
The handle appears to be loose until you fit it over the bolt head which then loosens the trunion lock.

Ed in Tampa wrote:This may appear to be stupid question but have you tried loosening the trunion lock?
The handle appears to be loose until you fit it over the bolt head which then loosens the trunion lock.

On a Greenie it is a NUT.

JPG wrote:

Ed in Tampa wrote:This may appear to be stupid question but have you tried loosening the trunion lock?
The handle appears to be loose until you fit it over the bolt head which then loosens the trunion lock.

On a Greenie it is a NUT.

Yes, in fact I removed it completely.

everettdavis wrote:Start in MickyD's Greenie Restoration thread here https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 634#p31634

He did an exceptional job restoring his greenie, and indexed the process in this post.

I use 50 /50 mix of acetone (flamable) and ATF automatic transmission fluid to penetrate rust.

I use Marvel Mystery Oil to work on aluminum seizures. Never mixed any with Acetone before.

The acetone is a diluent (thins the viscosity) allowing it to penetrate, then evaporates leaving the oil to work its magic.

I would drizzle Marvel Mystery Oil on it after you have used the penetrating mix.

Well ventilated and no flames near it as it is very flammable if acetone is in the mix.

Mix maybe a tablespoon of each and mix. It doesn't take a lot.

Everett

Thanks! I will check out the link and I will give the Marvel Mystery oil a try.

Use caution not to break the front or rear trunnions. If you have to replace them you will have to get used ones. After Shopsmith discontinued the Mark V Model 500 they stopped making replacement parts for them and these are two parts they no longer have.

chapmanruss wrote:Use caution not to break the front or rear trunnions. If you have to replace them you will have to get used ones. After Shopsmith discontinued the Mark V Model 500 they stopped making replacement parts for them and these are two parts they no longer have.

Thanks. I am still struggling to get things loose. I thought about trying a puller to get them off, thinking that would be better than beating on it with a rubber mallet .

If you have to use a puller to get them off they will probably break. The reason I know Shopsmith no longer has these parts available is because I had to replace them. The rear on one machine I restored and the front on another machine I restored. These are cast aluminum with a steel sleeve and cannot stand up to being pulled off by force. In both cases they were really stuck and would not move at all so the puller was a last resort to clear the pin to be able to use the rest of the assembly. I then had to get a used replacement for it in each case.

I don't know if you have room but if you have two large enough bearing separators, using threaded rod you might be able to tightly sandwich the trunnion between them and using the threaded puller, gently push the bolt out. You might have to fab up some wood plates with reliefs to span casting areas to make te sandwich flat, but you get the idea.

It would be best if you have room to fabricate a washer to rest on the sleeve area even if you have to stack several to push on the sleeve, not the cast aluminum.

Last resort thoughts for me.

Everett