A Question About the Procedure

[dusty]

When doing a table to blade alignment it is recommended that the measurements all be taken at the same spot (tooth) on the blade.

Is this being done ONLY to compensate for possible warp (wobble) in the blade?

While doing a table to blade alignment, is the greatest frustration brought about by the movement of the table as the trunnion bolts are secured.

[Dansmith]

Dusty, in my opinion, the point of measurement is soley for consistency, whether that be based on blade runout or spindle runout or whatever.

Yes, it is frustrating to tighten the bolts to avoid movement; but that applies to most table saw (or any system that has bolts used to align) systems, not just the Shopsmith. It's the nature of the beast.Patience is required with often multiple efforts.

[wa2crk]

The single tooth is for consistency as Dansmith pointed out. Using various teeth will most likely have you chasing your tail to get a consistent reading. I generally loosen all four of the table bolts and then snug up on the left rear bolt just enough to provide a little drag and then align the table to the single tooth. After the table is aligned, alternately tighten the left rear and the front bolt in slow increments. After two of the bolts are tightened check the alignment again and and if all is OK tighten the other bolts. After all the bolts are tightened check the alignment again to make sure nothing moved. At this time you can also check for any warp in the table.
Bill V

[masonsailor2]

One of the issues in table alignment I have found over the years is the warped type lock washer used on most saw tables. As you tighten the bolt that type of lock washer seems to add force on the stud or bolt that causes the table to shift. Tightening the nut obviously causes movement but that style lock washer seems to add more movement. Change them out to a star lock washer or nylock and the movement is less and the procedure a little less frustrating.
Paul

[dusty]

One of the issues in table alignment I have found over the years is the warped type lock washer used on most saw tables. As you tighten the bolt that type of lock washer seems to add force on the stud or bolt that causes the table to shift. Tightening the nut obviously causes movement but that style lock washer seems to add more movement. Change them out to a star lock washer or nylock and the movement is less and the procedure a little less frustrating.
Paul

Very interesting comment. Lock washers - I have flat washers on all of my tables studs. Don't ask me why. I believe that is what came with it when the Mark V was brand new.

The next time it becomes necessary to loosen the trunnion bolts, I will change over to nylocks,

[algale]

In the past I have had success by aligning the table and then observing how much the needle jumped on my dial indicator, and in which direction, as the bolts were tightened. I then have re-aligned the table to account for that movement so that when the bolts are tightened, the table moves itself into alignment.

[wa2crk]

One thing that I did not mention is htat after I establish the pivot point I shift the table as far to the right as it will go. Then just tap the front of the table to move it left just far enough to obtain the alignment.This makes the alignment go a lot faster.
Bill V

[everettdavis]

I have a thought for your consideration that involves changing out the studs or converting to studs for tables that did not have them.

My notion was that the course threads on the factory studs does contribute some to the in-ability to adjust the table.

My notion involves swapping out the studs for ones that have the proper thread for the table, but incorporates fine threads on the opposite end providing more granular adjustment since the rotation of the nut produces a finer adjustment.

I know there is discussion on using the same tooth of the blade to insure a proper alignment. I had published the PDF "My Method to the Alignment Process" which involves the larger diameter sanding disc and outlines a good bit of the thought process why I feel it is an easier method.

Equally, the PDF titled "What Can a Single Cross-Cut Tell You?" is a very simple method to find out IF you need alignment in the first place.

They are simple methods, and use use a piece of rod stock, the allen wrench, or a dial indicator to do exactly the same thing with the process.

I had not considered the Nylock Nut component, but that would be an excellent addition the the fine thread stud system I show in the attached photo.

I cannot encourage an owner enough to read those two PDF's as it really helps get one's head around the process.

The early machines had bolts and washers, and newer table designs incorporated the studs allowing for a more granular adjustment.

Everett

Exchange Table Studs to Course Mount and Fine Threads - Everett.jpg (47.48 KiB) Viewed 6919 times

[dusty]

Can the factory installed studs on the extension tables be removed?

[everettdavis]

There is of course the alignment of the miter tracks to the blade consideration, but there is an equal concern that the table is level in relationship to the cut.

Envision the 12" Sanding Disc after it is verified Flat and at 90 degrees to the axis of the spindle. Yes wiggling the disc will reveal any run-out or wobble present in the Quill Assembly (or bearings in it).

Using that as a reference, turn the able 90 degrees and and bring the surface of the table and the surface of the 12" Sanding Disc into contact.

If there is any variance in the contact, the table itself is not level. You first adjust the levelness of the table with the studs etc., then perform alignments. The Nylock Nuts seem an excellent way to insure it stays in place once aligned. (FOR THAT MACHINE)

Move it to a different machine and you start over, so keep the tables associated with the machine if you have multiple units.

The Single Crosscut method I outline to determine if you are in alignment or not.

Everett